Step-by-Step: Drilling Holes in Your Glass Tank for Bulkheads - Page 8

aroundtuit · 01/10/2006, 02:59 PM

Why not take a piece of wood or some other material, about the same thickness as your glass, and drill a few holes in it of varying sizes. Then you could test fit the bulkhead and know precisely how it's going to fit in your tank.

Of course you probably would not have the diamond bit yet, so you would have to find some way to drill the holes in the wood to the exact size. I'm not sure I'd use the bit on wood even if I had it.

dwall174 · 01/10/2006, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by stgla
The flange is the "lip" or flat disc-shaped piece that sits flush with inside of your tank wall and the gasket is the flat rubber ring that sits against the tank wall from the outside. (Someone please correct me if I have that wrong)

The gasket needs to be in-between the flange & the glass.
The bulkhead can be installed either way, With the flange inside or outside of the tank! Just be sure the gasket is in-between the glass & the flange.

meagan_myers · 01/11/2006, 10:12 AM

So there is several millimeters of wiggle room then, right?

stgla · 01/11/2006, 10:40 AM

Meagan, yes, but don't believe us. Get your bulkhead before you drill. That was the advice I ignored and wish I hadn't.

meagan_myers · 01/11/2006, 07:13 PM

ok. thanks!

sea knight · 01/12/2006, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by dwall174
Not at Home Depot or Lowes!
Maybe from a ceramic supplier or a tile store? But then you will probably be paying like $40~$50 for a 1-3/4Ã¢â‚¬Â bit like I originally did!

I've seen diamond coated drill bits in the harbor frieght catalog. They may have them in store

nikonosis · 01/14/2006, 11:48 AM

i think i am going to try and drill my aga 180g. Should i be scared?

Superorb · 01/14/2006, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by nikonosis
i think i am going to try and drill my aga 180g. Should i be scared?

Be confident and have patience. If you don't feel comfortable going into it you will be uneasy the whole time; something you don't want to be while drilling the glass.

nikonosis · 01/14/2006, 12:38 PM

im confident i can do it but at the same time, i have the worst luck on earth! ill drill the hole fine and when i fill the tank with water it will explode or something, lol.

BraenDead · 01/14/2006, 05:32 PM

I plan on drilling in a hole near the bottom corner of the tank to allow for easy draining of the tank. On the outside of the bulkhead, I plan on having a 1" nipple connecting a true union ball-valve to the bulkhead, with a hose barb connector and hose coming off the other side of the ball valve. Is this going to be too much weight being put on the bulkhead and cause too much strain on the glass?
Any opinions on how to prevent any strain?

Thanks,

Bob

Fl_seagull · 01/14/2006, 07:10 PM

I have 4 each 1" bulkheads in the bottom of my 125 gal. all of them have ball valves and unions along with associated tubing.

The worst that I have had is the leaks resulting from movement of the bulkheads when opening and closing the valves. For the most part I simply tied the tubing to a nearby stand frame member. My stand has a 2x4 frame with 3/8 bead board covering.

causeofhim · 01/14/2006, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BraenDead
IAny opinions on how to prevent any strain?

I prevent strain by eating my daily recommended amount of fiber.

BraenDead · 01/14/2006, 07:20 PM

Nice Matt

I suppose I should have said 'prevent strain on the tank and bulkhead.'

Bob

nikonosis · 01/14/2006, 08:54 PM

well im gonna drill my tank if that lau guy ever emails me back so i can buy some of those hole saws...

dtaranath · 01/15/2006, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BraenDead
I plan on drilling in a hole near the bottom corner of the tank to allow for easy draining of the tank.

Make sure your bulkhead has a good seal; if something ever happened to that bulkhead, you're going to come home to a nice little lake...

chrisT · 01/18/2006, 11:33 AM

Maring Depot says you need a 2 3/8 " hole for the 1.5" bulkheads, but doing the math on the 60mm hole saw gives me a 2.36" hole which isnt quite 2.375. I just wanted to double check with the experienced glass drillers that the bulkhead will fit witout having to open the hole up anymore. Thanks for the great thread, local shops want 35 a hole with no guarantee on breakage. I would much rather do it myslef.

nikonosis · 01/18/2006, 12:49 PM

does anyone here recommend a schedule 40 or a schedule 80 bulkhead and why? Is it worth the money to get the 80's?

Superorb · 01/18/2006, 12:55 PM

Most people will say to use a sched 80 since they are much more prone to failure. However, poeple have used sched 40 without problems. Just remember that a bigger hole must be drilled when using sched 80 bulkhead, so plan accordingly.

sea knight · 01/18/2006, 01:07 PM

chrisT, perhaps they account for a slightly larger hole because of wiggle room? For example, If you drill a normal hole with a drill bit, it isn't the exact width of the bit... maybe they are thinking the same thing?

Just a thought... no idea if it will apply to your situation.

causeofhim · 01/18/2006, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by chrisT
Maring Depot says you need a 2 3/8 " hole for the 1.5" bulkheads, but doing the math on the 60mm hole saw gives me a 2.36" hole which isnt quite 2.375. I just wanted to double check with the experienced glass drillers that the bulkhead will fit witout having to open the hole up anymore. Thanks for the great thread, local shops want 35 a hole with no guarantee on breakage. I would much rather do it myslef.

I used a 60mm bit for my 1 1/2" bulkheads. Although, my bulkheads were standard sch. 40 and it was a tight fit. If they were any bigger, they wouldn't have fit.

DerekW · 01/19/2006, 06:27 AM

You could likely go 65 mm that is 2.56", Which makes the hole just over 1/8" bigger in diameter, and only 1/16" bigger around the edges of the bulkhead . The gasket should cover it

REEF-DADDY · 01/22/2006, 08:01 AM

Has anyone drillled for a 2" bulkhead? The hole size is listed as 3 1/4. I can only find 80(3.15) or 85 (3.38). I bought the 80, figuring I could always make the whole larger if need be. Also has anyone drilled such a large whole in 3/8" glass. Will I need more than one bit?

Thanks

nikonosis · 01/22/2006, 08:58 AM

im gonna be drilling in a 180g, i dunno what the glass thickness is. I am just waiting on my bits to get here.

REEF-DADDY · 01/22/2006, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by nikonosis
im gonna be drilling in a 180g, i dunno what the glass thickness is. I am just waiting on my bits to get here.

likely 3/8"

ray22 · 01/23/2006, 06:50 PM

i jsut wanted to say this thread has saved me over 200 bucks . my question is i just ordered two glass drill bits for a bargin 5 bucks each . ( hell yeah) 50 bucks plus everywhere else. my question is what is the difference between double threaded fitting,a thread slip fit ? i just want to run pvc out of the back of the bulkhead to the drain and back to the return bulkhead from the pump and attach lock line to all of the returns and screens on the one closed loop drain . what kind of bulkhead do you suggest ? i am at a loss with all this slip and thread bulkhead sh@t. thank you for your advice and for the money savings.. you rock !!

01/10/2006, 02:59 PM	#176
aroundtuit Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Fenton, MO Posts: 202	Why not take a piece of wood or some other material, about the same thickness as your glass, and drill a few holes in it of varying sizes. Then you could test fit the bulkhead and know precisely how it's going to fit in your tank. Of course you probably would not have the diamond bit yet, so you would have to find some way to drill the holes in the wood to the exact size. I'm not sure I'd use the bit on wood even if I had it. __________________ What I hear, I forget. What I see, I remember. And what I do, I understand. -Chinese Proverb Current Tank Info: 110 G Fresh water - 125 Gal Reef not set up yet.

01/14/2006, 07:10 PM	#186
Fl_seagull Registered Member Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 206	I have 4 each 1" bulkheads in the bottom of my 125 gal. all of them have ball valves and unions along with associated tubing. The worst that I have had is the leaks resulting from movement of the bulkheads when opening and closing the valves. For the most part I simply tied the tubing to a nearby stand frame member. My stand has a 2x4 frame with 3/8 bead board covering. __________________ I try to learn from other's mistakes but my own are more entertaining. Current Tank Info: 125 gal Reef, 120 FO, 6 gal soft coral/LPS Nano

01/19/2006, 06:27 AM	#196
DerekW Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Southern Ontario Posts: 873	You could likely go 65 mm that is 2.56", Which makes the hole just over 1/8" bigger in diameter, and only 1/16" bigger around the edges of the bulkhead . The gasket should cover it __________________ Derek It's a small world........But I wouldn't want to paint it. Current Tank Info: 220, 4x250w mh, 4x110w actinics CS12-2 RC , 75 gallon sump, Calcium reactor, DIY 36" Kalkwasser reactor

01/22/2006, 08:01 AM	#197
REEF-DADDY Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: CT Posts: 3,164	Has anyone drillled for a 2" bulkhead? The hole size is listed as 3 1/4. I can only find 80(3.15) or 85 (3.38). I bought the 80, figuring I could always make the whole larger if need be. Also has anyone drilled such a large whole in 3/8" glass. Will I need more than one bit? Thanks __________________ Steve 280 Gallon BB mixed reef PM bullet 3 powered by a PCX-70,400w HQI Radiums,Tunze Wavebox,AC III Litermeter III,PCX-70 pushing 2 Eductors,Geo 624 Ca Reactor,125 sump, Dart Return Current Tank Info: 280 SPS reef

01/23/2006, 06:50 PM	#200
ray22 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 362	bulkhead question for an awsome thread i jsut wanted to say this thread has saved me over 200 bucks . my question is i just ordered two glass drill bits for a bargin 5 bucks each . ( hell yeah) 50 bucks plus everywhere else. my question is what is the difference between double threaded fitting,a thread slip fit ? i just want to run pvc out of the back of the bulkhead to the drain and back to the return bulkhead from the pump and attach lock line to all of the returns and screens on the one closed loop drain . what kind of bulkhead do you suggest ? i am at a loss with all this slip and thread bulkhead sh@t. thank you for your advice and for the money savings.. you rock !!

01/11/2006, 10:12 AM	#178
meagan_myers Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: AR Posts: 142	So there is several millimeters of wiggle room then, right?

01/11/2006, 10:40 AM	#179
stgla Premium Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Washington, DC Posts: 353	Meagan, yes, but don't believe us. Get your bulkhead before you drill. That was the advice I ignored and wish I hadn't.

01/11/2006, 07:13 PM	#180
meagan_myers Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: AR Posts: 142	ok. thanks!

01/14/2006, 11:48 AM	#182
nikonosis Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,935	i think i am going to try and drill my aga 180g. Should i be scared?

01/14/2006, 12:38 PM	#184
nikonosis Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,935	im confident i can do it but at the same time, i have the worst luck on earth! ill drill the hole fine and when i fill the tank with water it will explode or something, lol.

01/14/2006, 05:32 PM	#185
BraenDead Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 1,007	I plan on drilling in a hole near the bottom corner of the tank to allow for easy draining of the tank. On the outside of the bulkhead, I plan on having a 1" nipple connecting a true union ball-valve to the bulkhead, with a hose barb connector and hose coming off the other side of the ball valve. Is this going to be too much weight being put on the bulkhead and cause too much strain on the glass? Any opinions on how to prevent any strain? Thanks, Bob

01/14/2006, 07:20 PM	#188
BraenDead Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 1,007	Nice Matt I suppose I should have said 'prevent strain on the tank and bulkhead.' Bob

01/14/2006, 08:54 PM	#189
nikonosis Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,935	well im gonna drill my tank if that lau guy ever emails me back so i can buy some of those hole saws...

01/18/2006, 11:33 AM	#191
chrisT Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 71	Maring Depot says you need a 2 3/8 " hole for the 1.5" bulkheads, but doing the math on the 60mm hole saw gives me a 2.36" hole which isnt quite 2.375. I just wanted to double check with the experienced glass drillers that the bulkhead will fit witout having to open the hole up anymore. Thanks for the great thread, local shops want 35 a hole with no guarantee on breakage. I would much rather do it myslef.

01/18/2006, 12:49 PM	#192
nikonosis Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,935	does anyone here recommend a schedule 40 or a schedule 80 bulkhead and why? Is it worth the money to get the 80's?

01/18/2006, 12:55 PM	#193
Superorb Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 430	Most people will say to use a sched 80 since they are much more prone to failure. However, poeple have used sched 40 without problems. Just remember that a bigger hole must be drilled when using sched 80 bulkhead, so plan accordingly.

01/18/2006, 01:07 PM	#194
sea knight Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Wylie, TX Posts: 8	chrisT, perhaps they account for a slightly larger hole because of wiggle room? For example, If you drill a normal hole with a drill bit, it isn't the exact width of the bit... maybe they are thinking the same thing? Just a thought... no idea if it will apply to your situation.

01/22/2006, 08:58 AM	#198
nikonosis Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,935	im gonna be drilling in a 180g, i dunno what the glass thickness is. I am just waiting on my bits to get here.