Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

[Dustin1300]

Originally Posted by vhuang168

900-1554 is just the controller. You need an accompanying drive and head unit.


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I already have pump, like mentioned about controller fried after power outage and bought this as replacement.

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[vhuang168]

Ah got it. Didn't understand your question but now I see that you are asking if you can disable remote mode on the replacement controller you got.


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[Dustin1300]

Originally Posted by vhuang168

Ah got it. Didn't understand your question but now I see that you are asking if you can disable remote mode on the replacement controller you got.


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Exactly. Sorry, my heads not clear today

I'd love to find a manual for this. Can find it for the newer unit but cannot find anything from this older unit. Don't want it to be dependent on Apex, I've made the mistake of relying too much on it in past.

[tkeracer619]

Unfortunately I don't think there is anything you can do to get it out of external mode. I talked to their techs and that part number was given to many different custom models. That one likely has custom firmware. May be worth another call to tech support.

You could try supplying 10v and see if it spins. If it does it may be worth setting up a potentiometer to vary the voltage supplied. A simple circuit would give you control. It may not function at all. Test with 10v.

[tkeracer619]

Also, the 900-1554 and 900-1555 is the custom designation for 77301-20 setups and here is the manual.

http://www.coleparmer.com/Assets/man...-60-70rev5.pdf

I don't recomend them unless you buy them as a set and they are confirmed working in int mode.

[Dustin1300]

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

Also, the 900-1554 and 900-1555 is the custom designation for 77301-20 setups and here is the manual.

http://www.coleparmer.com/Assets/man...-60-70rev5.pdf

I don't recomend them unless you buy them as a set and they are confirmed working in int mode.

I appreciate you sharing this, could not find the manual. I've already opened a ticket with CP Support and contacted eBay seller. Think I might have just wasted some money but if I don't get anything back soon will need to figure out another pump. Any recommendations if no one knows how to get it out of remote mode?

[machodik]

I have seen my adding a small pump to do the push while my Watson Marlon pump pull , the bubbles have drastically improve now .

But I have a questions : my GEO 618 effluents outlet was connected with a flexible air pump (green color tube in below picture ) to connect the RODI hard white tubing to my sump , but this green tubing easily leaks may be due to the salt or co2 water ? So I wonder what tuning you guys use to connect from the effluent to the sump? I add a check bulk which may be overkill can take it out anytime anyway.

By the way, I use the green flexible air pump tube as the hard white RODI tube is not possible to fit the GEO 618 effluent outlet head. I wonder what size is it ?



Cheers,


MD


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[awais98]

I have a 7523-60 drive.
Is there a way to set it up so that if I loose power , on return it goes back to previous setting rather that stay at zero.



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[swk]

Originally Posted by machodik

I have seen my adding a small pump to do the push while my Watson Marlon pump pull , the bubbles have drastically improve now .

But I have a questions : my GEO 618 effluents outlet was connected with a flexible air pump (green color tube in below picture ) to connect the RODI hard white tubing to my sump , but this green tubing easily leaks may be due to the salt or co2 water ? So I wonder what tuning you guys use to connect from the effluent to the sump? I add a check bulk which may be overkill can take it out anytime anyway.

By the way, I use the green flexible air pump tube as the hard white RODI tube is not possible to fit the GEO 618 effluent outlet head. I wonder what size is it ?



Cheers,


MD


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You need a John guest x 1/4" threaded fitting. Then you can use regular RO tubing


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[machodik]

Thanks for advise, is this the one ? Sorry I am not an expert on plumbing .



But I think the threaded head is too big to fit the protrude one from the PVC pipe of the GEO? You mean I have to replace the black fitting head with this John guest threaded 1/4"?


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[swk]

I would use the one without an elbow like this:



And yes, remove the black threaded piece and replace with this. Make sure to use some teflon paste.


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[swk]

Originally Posted by awais98

I have a 7523-60 drive.
Is there a way to set it up so that if I loose power , on return it goes back to previous setting rather that stay at zero.



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Yes. The directions are available online for most pumps.


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[machodik]

Thanks , great help


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[Dustin1300]

Just to follow-up to my dilemna with the control unit not being set to local mode. After working with eBay I'm getting my order refunded and they are covering shipping back. ColeParmer support could not help either so just beware of sellers on ebay that might not be honest with what they are selling.

[machodik]

Originally Posted by swk

I would use the one without an elbow like this:



And yes, remove the black threaded piece and replace with this. Make sure to use some teflon paste.


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I just about to removed the black one but I have seen two things that make me thinking second thoughts:

1) there's seem GEO put some sort of glue on the threaded ? I see some whitish stuffs around the black threaded :



2) I think this is 1/8" instead of 1/4" as scripted on the white PVC protruding tube :



Anyone can advise there experience in changing this black one with a John guest ?



Cheers ,


MD


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[Vinny Kreyling]

According to PVC manufacturers a teflon paste should be used instead of tape on threads & I think that is what you see there. If you have both fittings just use the one that fits the threads, there should be no problem, it does look like the fitting says 1/8.

[machodik]

Originally Posted by Vinny Kreyling

According to PVC manufacturers a teflon paste should be used instead of tape on threads & I think that is what you see there. If you have both fittings just use the one that fits the threads, there should be no problem, it does look like the fitting says 1/8.

Oh, so that is not any glue ? I guess GEO will not be using some glue for permanent and stick the threads knob.

Ok , will try and revert if this is 1/8 or 1/4".

Thanks


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[swk]

I apologize if I got the threaded size wrong.

George uses, or used to, blue teflon tape when assembling. Totally normals.


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[machodik]

Originally Posted by swk

I apologize if I got the threaded size wrong.

George uses, or used to, blue teflon tape when assembling. Totally normals.


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Thanks for your warm help , nothing to apologies on the wrong size.

I will try slowly to loosen the black knob to make sure it will not crack (in case it is with some kind of any glue), I also believed it should be Teflon tape but just to make sure or else something went wrong then will be a big mess as I live far away from US.

Cheers,


MD


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[machodik]

Report back , finally done !

No glue but only blue Teflon tape used by GEO and 1/8"



But still have some bubbles , although the dripping is smooth .



I have to remove the small pump to push as I want to let my peristaltic pump do the pulling . Will see if drip will be affected by the bubbles then .

I wonder how you guys put your tubing in the sump for the outlet of tank water into the chamber .

My sump to reactor use this kind of tube :



MD


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[awais98]

Have a basic question:
I'll be using masterflex with 2 heads for continuous water change.
I plan to use the 'out' line from the sump to a frag tank and from there the water can drain via overflow passively to a drain.
I will be exchanging 3 gallons daily...so that much water will go in the 20g frag tank....
question: I know water will evaporate from the frag tank too but will the 3G exchange keep the sailinty stable in the frag tank????


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[BillFW]

Originally Posted by awais98

Have a basic question:
I'll be using masterflex with 2 heads for continuous water change.
I plan to use the 'out' line from the sump to a frag tank and from there the water can drain via overflow passively to a drain.
I will be exchanging 3 gallons daily...so that much water will go in the 20g frag tank....
question: I know water will evaporate from the frag tank too but will the 3G exchange keep the sailinty stable in the frag tank????


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No, you will need to "dose" fresh DI water at the rate of the evaporation. The inflow of the salt water from your water change system doesn't have any effect on the salinity increase due to evaporation. I'm doing that exact same thing with my system.

[awais98]

Originally Posted by BillFW

No, you will need to "dose" fresh DI water at the rate of the evaporation. The inflow of the salt water from your water change system doesn't have any effect on the salinity increase due to evaporation. I'm doing that exact same thing with my system.

In the frag tank If the water will 'always be full' due to incoming 3 gallons, how will I ever 'dose' auto topoff water via float switch.



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[soulpatch]

Originally Posted by awais98

In the frag tank If the water will 'always be full' due to incoming 3 gallons, how will I ever 'dose' auto topoff water via float switch.



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You won't always be full. Say your tank evaps 1/2 a gallon a day. You pull out 3 gallons for the AWC so your tank is now down 3.5 gallons. When pulling out the water you pump in 3 gallons so you are still down .5 gallons due to the evap.

Your pump doesnt pump in more fresh water to account for the evap. That is what top offs are for.

[awais98]

Originally Posted by soulpatch

You won't always be full. Say your tank evaps 1/2 a gallon a day. You pull out 3 gallons for the AWC so your tank is now down 3.5 gallons. When pulling out the water you pump in 3 gallons so you are still down .5 gallons due to the evap.



Your pump doesnt pump in more fresh water to account for the evap. That is what top offs are for.

How you describe it it will work perfectly for the main St/sump setup.
But I'm talking about the frag tank..... saltwater in going in, but not being actively pulled out.....it supposed to come out passively via drain.... do I make sense?


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