AquaIllumination PAR Measurements

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by GeppettoCarlo

Very interesting, I was hoping to see greater par numbers at the 20" depth from the AI.
How is the light spread hanging 10" over the tank?

Greater than 570? - Your Zoas, LPS and/or softies are gonna need serious sunblock - And that's a single 70 watt unit raised 10", shooting through a glass canopy and remember, the Apogee is underestimating the amount of PAR, likely by more than 15%. I'm not sure if jkhuskies99's AI has the 70 degree perimeter lenses (look for a dot on the puck centered between the lenses), but assuming there isn't too much light spillage outside the tank, I'd raise them another 2-3 inches (for reference, mine are 17.5" above the water with minimal light spillage.) This would slightly reduce the center PAR numbers while giving better coverage and PAR in the corners. Even then, you'll have to reduce the power to keep from bleaching most of the tank's inhabitants residing in the middle of the tank.

Originally Posted by jkhuskies99

I have my Cadlights LED about 3" above the water on top of a glass canopy, and the AI Sol was raised 10" above the water on top of the canopy.

AI at 100 / 100
On water surface - 1045
4" below center - 780
4" below far right - 110
4" below far left - 100
10" below center - 570
Front bottom - 110
Right bottom - 90
Left bottom - 75

For comparison, here are my *measurements in open air (no glass.) This was using 2 units, so the at-depth measurements are slightly higher due to overlap. The increase in the shallow measurements are a result of no glass.

6" - 1650
12" - 1370 (water surface)
16" - 915 (4" water depth)
19" - 690 (7" water depth)
24" - 560 (12" water depth)

*Lights are hung 12" above water surface. Measurements taken directly under one AI 70W unit at 100%W/100%B with the sensor placed in the center of the unit using the Sun setting on the MQ-200. The below-water measurements are likely skewed high from light from the adjacent (5" apart) AI unit. I left both on as this likely represents actual usage (multiple units.) Those with more than 2 units would have higher readings with light from 2nd adjacent unit.

[rostato]

Originally Posted by CalmSeasQuest

This conflicted with what Chris had told me at MACNA - I was quite certain that my Gen2 has 40 degree optics throughout. In speaking with Joe, he confirmed the change to 70 degree perimeter optics took place in June/July of this year. All prior Gen 2 units (including mine which was purchased in 11/2009) use 40 degree optics exclusively. The pucks containing 70 degree optics have a dot in the center of the three lenses.

I also learned my SOl Blue upgrade ships tomorrow . I'm planning on playing around a bit with intermixing the white and SOL blue pucks to get the optimal combination of color and intensity.

Yeah, Mine is shipping too! I hope they send out new optics with it then. I swear to you that Joe told me that ALL second gen AI units had 70 degree optics on the outside. Maybe he was missunderstood, or I missunderstood what he typed to me. My unit's optics do not have said dot in the center.

I can't wait to play with the color combo's.

[rostato]

Quoted from Joe from my email

"Chris,

The optics haven't changed at all. The unit you have has 70 degree optics on the outside 4 pucks and 40 degree optics on the middle pucks. This is the same way we ship the units out to date. "

I specifically told him I have the second gen 2 units from earlier this year. I bought mine in either jan or feb

[CalmSeasQuest]

No worries, they just got their wires crossed. It's nice that they identify the 70 degree pucks with the dot.

According to Joe, the SOL Blue Gen 2 upgrades do not ship with new optics (just the pucks and a thin paper spacer to be placed between the SOL Blue puck and the optics.) I'm sure you can order the 70 degree optics if desired. In my case, I prefer the 40s as my lights are elevated 17.5" ATWL - The wider optics would result in more light spillage outside the tank.

The only issue (temporary) with the upgrade is the reversal of the color channels. To accommodate the change in W/B ratio, the blues and whites will appear reversed on the controller. This will be corrected in an upcoming firmware update.

It will be somewhat tough to intermix the colors as it will result in some cross-control of some of the pucks.

[rostato]

Yeah. Luckily I have a profilux, and I can just swap everything over to new channels with no problems...

I too don't need the 70 degree optics, but it would be nice to use them in the center of my module to help with blasting the corals in the center of the tank. No biggie though.

[jkhuskies99]

Surface to sand for me 16", so my cadlights LEDs are 19" to the sand, and the AIs are 26" to the sand.

CalmSeaQuest, you are right that I am losing some PAR as I have the glass canopy. At 10" center, I have a gigantea that loves the PAR. When I moved the PAR meter slightly left and back from center at 10" depth it was reading around 300-400, that is basically where I have SPS. Nothing bleached for me as I upgraded from a 150w MH HQI 10k, I guess I was lucky. I'm sure that if I go to 2 AIs on their rails sitting 2-3" over the water with the glass canopy, I would have to dial down the AIs as I would blast everything on the side and front of the tank. My gigantea will love it!

[GeppettoCarlo]

@Calm I was refer to 20" below the water surface in comparison to the Cadlight LED's. I was hoping to see better par penetration, as the problem with 1w LED's. They both seem to have the same numbers given the AI is hung 7" higher to help with light coverage.

Speaking of light coverage, how are you enjoying a single unit over the artisan? Any dead spots? Would you recommend a two unit on one?

Sorry for all the question really trying to get all the research before investing in the company!

[jkhuskies99]

I have my cadlights back on as I need to do a more thorough mapping of PAR readings. Also, not thrilled with the light coverage of 1 unit turned sideways at 100/100, so I am now strongly considering going to 2 units using the rails.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by jkhuskies99

I have my cadlights back on as I need to do a more thorough mapping of PAR readings. Also, not thrilled with the light coverage of 1 unit turned sideways at 100/100, so I am now strongly considering going to 2 units using the rails.

There's no doubt 2 AIs would provide better coverage, but before ordering a second unit, I'd try raising them higher (assuming you're not spilling too much light outside of the tank - it's hard for me to visualize the impact of the 70 degree lenses.)

You've got more than enough PAR, even for your Gigantea. In reality, your measured 570 PAR value could be ~680 when factoring in the PAR meter variance.

I'd try raising the AIs to 12"-14" and see if that provided better coverage. - Then if you're not happy, go ahead and order the 2nd AI. At least you'll have tried every option.

Just a thought...

[marcin11379]

Do you ever create or know where i can find chart with AL lighting tabel how to set up lights to 10K or 14K ?

[marcin11379]

I got four 12'' modules and i can't find out light spectrum

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by marcin11379

Do you ever create or know where i can find chart with AL lighting tabel how to set up lights to 10K or 14K ?

Originally Posted by marcin11379

I got four 12'' modules and i can't find out light spectrum

Coloration is very subjective. The color of the LEDS vary between the SOL Blue (W/B/RB)and the original SOL whites (W/W/B) The only K value I'm aware of are the Cree Whites (XPGs.) They are about 6500K.

With the SOL Whites, my best guess would be all LEDS at 100% is about 10k~12K. 100% Blue and 50% white is about 18K. You can interpolate from there. I can't provide estimates on the SOL Blues as I haven't yet received the upgraded pucks, although I'm sure there is a SOL Blue owner that can respond. Coloration aside, I'd be far more concerned about PAR, (especially during acclimation.) Speaking as someone who's made the mistake - Coloration won't kill, but blasting coral with double+ the amount of PAR they are used to sure will

The best news is, you can create any color you desire with just the turn of a dial

[rostato]

My one module is 18" above the surface, and I get grat coverage on my tank. But then again, I have all 40 degree optics. If I had 70, I would dprobably be better at about 12-14"

[drtrash]

I have 2 blue sol 12" over 36" tank with minimal spotlighting. Will try to lower a little but light spill is minimal at least compared to my T-5. At 50% B & 35% W it is 15-18K light.

[jkhuskies99]

I am going to raise the lights to 12" above the water surface and give that a try. I won't get to it until next week, then I will measure PAR levels again. I definitely have the 70 degree optics. Thanks for the suggestions and info., I will post results next week.

[a240reef]

After trolling the LED threads for the past month, I finally just took the plunge and ordered my 60" 5 module Super Blue LED AIs for my 60x24x24 150 gallon newb tank.

I'll post pictures when I receive them. =)

[CalmSeasQuest]

Congrats a240reef! - You'll love the AIs

[xroads]

Originally Posted by CalmSeasQuest

I agree with all said. AI is the ONLY licensee under the Orbitec patent, so whether you agree with the broad reach of those patents or not (which I do not), AI will not have Solaris type problems.

I had an opportunity to test AquaIlluminations customer service directly, and can attest they are wonderful. Excerpted from earlier in this thread...

"About 6 weeks ago, I was adjusting the AI's which are hung above my tank when I did something stupid. While attempting to raise the lights (did I mention they are PAR MONSTERS?) my hand slipped and raised the right end of the rails too high, causing one of the AIs to slide off the other end and fall directly into the tank...The light was dead and it was entirely my fault.

I contacted AI (on a Sunday), Chris said to send it in and they would take a look at it ASAP. It was overnighted on Monday, they received it on Tuesday, repaired it AND overnighted it back to me THE SAME DAY. I had fried the main system board. AquaIllumination had it repaired within hours of receiving it and because of their efforts, I was without the light for less 72 hours. The cost?...Absolutely nothing."

Your tank's dimensions are tough to light, especially without seeing the coral placement and aquaculture. In order gain enough coverage using one row of AIs, you'd have to raise the lights so high, I'd be concerned about having enough PAR at 36" of depth. I would contact Greg at ReefGeek or call AI directly to get their opinion. My "best guess" would be 6 units total (3 each on 2 - 4' rails) mounted ~16" above the waterline. Depending on your coral placement, you *might* be able to get away with 5 units (especially with the new 70 degree perimeter optics.) You can always start with 5 and simply add more if needed.

This would provide plenty of PAR and should give you sufficient coverage using less than ~340 watts.

Just hearing about that type of service & the fact that they are American made (Iowa) has me sold.

[philosophish]

Does anyone have any experience running a combination of an AI unit with a pair, or more, of t5 bulbs? For example, using the AI as a "halide" source and flanking it with T5 actinics?

[FLGator56]

I've had the AI Sl Blue on the tank now for not quite 6-weeks (2 units, 13" above)...Could not be happier with the choice in lighting. They are quality, well engineered units that are very functional - and with an ability to really bring out the "pop" in the coral colors while still providing great PAR.

Only thing I am NOT a fan of is the fiddly control. I'm running the beta, and once setup (I run 6 different cycles over the course of the day) it works - assuming you don't lose power...then you need to re-setup a few items. As soon as the Apex VDM/AI module is available - that is being added to my tank to control the lights and give me remote access.

Again - the workmanship, quality, and performance make these a winner - just wish they weren't so expensive. Very very happy with the choice.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by philosophish

Does anyone have any experience running a combination of an AI unit with a pair, or more, of t5 bulbs? For example, using the AI as a "halide" source and flanking it with T5 actinics?

Defile LEDs by adding T5s??? That borders on Blasphemy

I seem to recall a European manufacturer did just that (sorry - I don't recall the company - I might have seen it included in coverage of Interzoo) I personally think it's a step backwards as so much progress has been made in LED efficiency and coloration. Friends don't let friends buy bulbs (at least any more frequently than 12 years or so )

Originally Posted by FLGator56

I've had the AI Sl Blue on the tank now for not quite 6-weeks (2 units, 13" above)...Could not be happier with the choice in lighting. They are quality, well engineered units that are very functional - and with an ability to really bring out the "pop" in the coral colors while still providing great PAR.

Only thing I am NOT a fan of is the fiddly control. I'm running the beta, and once setup (I run 6 different cycles over the course of the day) it works - assuming you don't lose power...then you need to re-setup a few items. As soon as the Apex VDM/AI module is available - that is being added to my tank to control the lights and give me remote access.

Again - the workmanship, quality, and performance make these a winner - just wish they weren't so expensive. Very very happy with the choice.

I'm with you regarding the Apex VDM module - I'll order it the moment Curt adds it to the website. That said, my AI controller has been rock solid running the beta firmware. Although I have it on a UPS and then generator (how many MH tanks can have lighting supported by a UPS??? ) I recall power-out testing it and I don't think I lost any settings. I could be mistaken, but I'd open a trouble ticket with AI to confirm. You might just have an issue with that controller.

[FLGator56]

Once setup, the controller has been fine. But a twitch of the finger and you could choose "yes" to "Reset All?" inadvertently...ask me how I know .

When power goes out 3 things change -it defaults to manual mode/settings and the number of periods defined goes to 2. You also lose your backlight level setting. You can go back in set the number of periods (mine is 6) and then those settings you had are still there...but a pain.

My vortechs are on Battery backup, and I will be putting the entire tank on battery backup shortly. Living in Florida...I do have a generator but luckily have not had to break it out this year. Hope our luck holds until the end of Hurricane Season.

[drtrash]

I tried to program the beta and got frustrated so I pulled it off. Would be noice if they had directions. May give it a try once done with aclimation settings. I'm at 2 weeks, need to get a PAR meter. Color is alittle muddy with low% of w but color is very pleasing to the eye. The T-5 were so bright you had to step back.

[em9468]

Thanks to everyone that has contributed here. I have a question regarding how many AI units I would need for a frag tank (mainly sps frags) that will measure 48x24x12. I would like to place 1 unit on a light rail to cover the whole tank. I would be willing to change the tank to 48x18x12 if that would give me better coverage. Thanks in advance!

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by em9468

Thanks to everyone that has contributed here. I have a question regarding how many AI units I would need for a frag tank (mainly sps frags) that will measure 48x24x12. I would like to place 1 unit on a light rail to cover the whole tank. I would be willing to change the tank to 48x18x12 if that would give me better coverage. Thanks in advance!

You could try one unit turned sideways (then add a second if needed) but due to the 48" length, I don't think it's doable with a single unit. Because the tank is so shallow, you can raise the lights virtually as high as needed to provide the coverage. My best guess is 2 units raised 22"-24" (maybe a bit less with the 70 degree optics) would provide coverage for your 48X24 tank with PAR to spare.