SC Aquariums Owners Thread

[pickle311]

Originally Posted by RogueGrown

Does anyone that has a 50 PNP have a good estimate of how much room is in the sump when the tank is running and when it's off? I ask cause I'm trying to determine if I add a shallow reef/frag tank to the system will the stock sump support it, or should I go with an AIO system?

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While running, the sump is right around half full. When shutting off the return pump, it's maybe 2/3 full. The sump could certainly handle a little more water running through it.
If the water level is raised any, it will exceed the height of the baffles and allow microbubbles to pass through.

[tminnick]

If my custom tank from you guys is 60 long x 30 deep what is the outside to dimension for my stand need to be?


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[RogueGrown]

Originally Posted by pickle311

While running, the sump is right around half full. When shutting off the return pump, it's maybe 2/3 full. The sump could certainly handle a little more water running through it.
If the water level is raised any, it will exceed the height of the baffles and allow microbubbles to pass through.

But while running the water should level itself out so there wouldn't be any bubbles passing by right???

Also, I currently just have the return pump that came with the system. Will this be good enough to run for awhile or should I look into a different pump? I heard mixed reviews on it so I'm not sure what route to take. I plan on making my plumbing so I can run at least one reactor off of it with the idea of a small frag tank later.

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[homer1475]

I ran the stock pump for about 6 months before I replaced it. Works fine, it's just large, loud, and cumbersome. I still use it to this day on my mixing station.

I'm not sure it would be powerful enough to run a manifold off of.

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[edolan]

If you decide to get a new pump I got a Jebao dcp 8000 on my 80 gallon. So far it is awesome. I cannot hear it at all. All I hear is a slight hum from the water flowing through the pipe. They are controllable and reasonably priced

Here is a thread on them.
.http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2595411

[d0ughb0y]

Originally Posted by curryb15

Thanks for checking out my build thread ! I did drill out the hole myself. It's a 2" hole saw with a plastic desk grommet used for running wires on desks. I will be using it to run power cords over to my electrical sliding shelf.

As far you fan you want to mount, I don't have much experience but maybe some how you can incorporate it into the plumbing cutout of the stand?


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I found on amazon you can get these fan grilles. I think I'll use one on my stand so it does not look ugly with just a fan with no cover.



https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-V...inet+fan+grill

They are designed for AV cabinets. you can get complete fan with temp controlled speed controller and display. just search AC Infinity fan on amazon.

[soulpatch]

I actually have the AC inifinity fans in my stand. I LOVE them. DEAD silent and have outlasted 2 computer fans I had on the other side already.

[d0ughb0y]

did you install at back or side? one or a pair?

[soulpatch]

Pair in back was first and I have a single on the other end now again in the back

[cincyjim]

I have a pair of Ice Cap 4" fans inside the left side of the canopy that blows across the length of the tank and exits out the right side. I did it this way as I have two Reef Brite LED strips that produce a fair amount of heat. I also have one in my cabinet just for good measure. I also used the fan cover that you showed a picture of. Works well for me. I'm sure though that the Infinity fans are much better.

[curryb15]

Originally Posted by d0ughb0y

I found on amazon you can get these fan grilles. I think I'll use one on my stand so it does not look ugly with just a fan with no cover.







https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-V...inet+fan+grill



They are designed for AV cabinets. you can get complete fan with temp controlled speed controller and display. just search AC Infinity fan on amazon.

I really like that I think that will look really good.


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[benibarra23]

Originally Posted by Mistersponge

Enlarged the 1/2 inch hole to fit a 3/4 bulkhead. That took 15 min with a dremel and diamond bit. 3/4 as siphon, 1" inch emergency. The return is 3/4 run up the back to a 1/2 T with 1/2 loc line. I've painted it all black, but I'll attach the pics I have on me. Hoping to have water in it this week.

I know this is super old but I want to do this same thing. Was drilling the larger hole necessary to convert it over to a Herbie Style?

[d0ughb0y]

I just leave the 1/2" drain wide open, and I get a trickle on the 1" emergency (and sets the level closer to the top). The shorter the 1/2" drain, the more flow will go through it.

I did the same on the return, but just used plain elbow instead of loc line. I use a dc return pump and noticed if I use the loc line, I have to run the dc pump at level 5 or 6 to get the flow right. But with elbows, I can get the same flow at level 2. This tells me how much flow is restricted/lost in loc lines. Probably won't matter to most people, but I am trying to configure the least energy consumption for the tank. The 1" drain is able to take it even if I crank the return to level 10. and if both drains are clogged, the return section water will not overflow the dt, and the dc pump will automatically shutdown after a short period of time running dry (I think 30 seconds), so this takes care of ATO from running amok. the dc pump does not restart even if dt water flows back down via return line after it is shut down due to running dry, and has to be unplugged/re plugged to start. you cannot do this with ac return pump.

[benibarra23]

Originally Posted by d0ughb0y

I just leave the 1/2" drain wide open, and I get a trickle on the 1" emergency (and sets the level closer to the top). The shorter the 1/2" drain, the more flow will go through it.

I did the same on the return, but just used plain elbow instead of loc line. I use a dc return pump and noticed if I use the loc line, I have to run the dc pump at level 5 or 6 to get the flow right. But with elbows, I can get the same flow at level 2. This tells me how much flow is restricted/lost in loc lines. Probably won't matter to most people, but I am trying to configure the least energy consumption for the tank. The 1" drain is able to take it even if I crank the return to level 10. and if both drains are clogged, the return section water will not overflow the dt, and the dc pump will automatically shutdown after a short period of time running dry (I think 30 seconds), so this takes care of ATO from running amok. the dc pump does not restart even if dt water flows back down via return line after it is shut down due to running dry, and has to be unplugged/re plugged to start. you cannot do this with ac return pump.

Great to know. I would love to see a picture if you can post one.

[d0ughb0y]

right now my whole setup is disassembled because I am building a stand.
if you search my old posts, you may find a picture.
my over the top return is slightly different because I need to shift it off center using 45 degree wye I got from marine depot instead of a standard tee like in the picture so I can mount an AI hydra RMS in the center.

[benibarra23]

Originally Posted by d0ughb0y

right now my whole setup is disassembled because I am building a stand.
if you search my old posts, you may find a picture.
my over the top return is slightly different because I need to shift it off center using 45 degree wye I got from marine depot instead of a standard tee like in the picture so I can mount an AI hydra RMS in the center.

Got it, I have the same problem trying to get around my RMS mount for my Radion.

[d0ughb0y]

I just checked my phone, I never took a picture of the wye configuration to shift the return line off center. The only pictures I have are similar to the one you quoted, using a standard tee.

yeah, it took me a while to figure out how to get the RMS mount centered at the back. I know it would bother me looking at it if it is not centered.

[benibarra23]

Originally Posted by d0ughb0y

I just checked my phone, I never took a picture of the wye configuration to shift the return line off center. The only pictures I have are similar to the one you quoted, using a standard tee.

yeah, it took me a while to figure out how to get the RMS mount centered at the back. I know it would bother me looking at it if it is not centered.

No worries. so were you able to center the RMS mount and have piper return back into the overflow area using that T you got at marine depot?

[benibarra23]

Originally Posted by Quintis

My 50g set-up is almost ready! Very nice tanks for the money.

Awesome ATo and Sump, where did you get them?

[d0ughb0y]

Originally Posted by benibarra23

No worries. so were you able to center the RMS mount and have piper return back into the overflow area using that T you got at marine depot?

This is what it looks like. The wye is shifted all the way to one side. There is a 3/4-1/2 slip thread adapter on that side.

[Thornbreaker]

Any idea if SCA runs a good 4th of july sale? Namely on the larger sized tanks like the 150?

[cincyjim]

Your best bet is to call Steve and ask him. He'll tell you up front if he will or not and if he doesn't have one he might give you a break on the price any way. He's a good guy... straight up and honest.

[Thornbreaker]

Thanks cincyJim. Enjoying your tank so far?

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[cincyjim]

Absolutely loving it!!! I cannot say enough about the quality of the tank... solid 1/2" glass and very well built. The stand and canopy are of nice quality too. I wish I had done this as my first tank and not my second but I had no one to ask or guide me back then. I'm pretty sure you will not be disappointed.

[aiber]

Hello all. I have the 50 and not happy with the skimmer. Please share what skimmers some of you have upgraded too. Reef Octopus?

Thanks


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