The Reef Central Corner Club Thread

[lotusstar]

the TDS meter has a switch to see in and out. It's wired to the last chamber. So Where my water flows in I changed that filters. Looks like a very dense roll of paper towels. The second chamber the water goes into I changed, that looks similar but with like a fish net mesh stocking around it. Chambers 3 and 4 and the exact same, sponge on either side of a powder that looks like carbon. Not sure if this is carbon? Do I need to change these out also? Clean / Change the sponges in the chambers?

[boret]

Might as well. Those are the sediment and carbon filters. They stop the larger impurities and extend the life of your membrane which should last about 2 years. There are many factors to keep in mind, if I were you I would check the Air, Water & Ice site or their forum on RC, you can also call Cliff at AWI, he is very helpful. Check also The Filter Guys site or forum on RC. Both companies are favorites among reefers and are very helpful.

I measure TDS after those filters but before the membrane, and on the final output. That way I can tell what needs to be replaced.

[lotusstar]

awesome, thanks for the help. And I agree about the LFS, they asked about filtration, told them I have an ATI skimmer. They couldn't believe I don't use a wet dry filter, which I did use about 10 years ago on my FO tank but things have changed and advanced. Might have to start traveling to Austin to get my livestock, that'll be a long drive. But that's way down the road, gotta try and see if any of this will actually help or not.

[boret]

I am not crazy about online (prefer to support LFS) but Live Aquaria has a great reputation, and has a 14 day guarantee! Shipping might be cheaper than driving to Austin

[reefscape15]

Boret - I am kinda scared of putting it all together and then cutting it all apart! Maybe when I get to the point of putting the doors on, I'll get the bracing done and just cut pieces to fit. I'd really hate to run off my line with the saw and have to start over again.

Lotusstar - I agree with Boret about the LFS. If they don't know what a poly filter is, and if they are still suggesting running wet/dry, maybe they aren't the best fish keepers. It may be worth your while to order online or drive somewhere else. Hopefully all gets figured out!

[Hookup]

Originally Posted by lotusstar

They couldn't believe I don't use a wet dry filter,

Run... run fast...

one LFS told me 20k bulbs cause corals to die after 6months... I couldn't answer that, so I had to walk out... I just turned and left... dumb founded.

[boret]

Originally Posted by reefscape15

Boret - I am kinda scared of putting it all together and then cutting it all apart! Maybe when I get to the point of putting the doors on, I'll get the bracing done and just cut pieces to fit. I'd really hate to run off my line with the saw and have to start over again.

That's what I did, because my vertical pieces are nailed and glued to the top piece with the hinges. So I cut first, put the hinges and then added the vertical boards.

[boret]

You can see in this picture where I drilled to get the Jig Saw in and make the cut:

[reefscape15]

I think i'll go that route. I don't want to take the chance of messing things up once they're already done. Another question. Did you seal up the cracks in your canopy? I remember seeing someone's tank on here, and they used a caulk to seal up the corners and such so light wasn't flooding the room. I'd really like to keep the light just within the canopy and not have it spraying my walls.

[reefscape15]

Ahh yes. the trusty old jig saw. I deffinately need to get one sometime. I have been making all my cuts with a circular saw. All my miter joints have been freehand with a circular on everything i've built, and plunge cuts with that saw are my answer to a cut like yours. Probably wayyyyy easier with a jigsaw!

[reefscape15]

Oh yea almost forgot. Do you have a link to where you got your LED's at? I'm planning on using about 10 or 12 blue, purple and white ones.

[boret]

Originally Posted by reefscape15

I think i'll go that route. I don't want to take the chance of messing things up once they're already done. Another question. Did you seal up the cracks in your canopy? I remember seeing someone's tank on here, and they used a caulk to seal up the corners and such so light wasn't flooding the room. I'd really like to keep the light just within the canopy and not have it spraying my walls.

That's a great question actually!
I had light coming through the slits between the vertical boards. I painted the canopy black and then I added black silicone to the gaps between the vertical boards. Let me take a few pics for you to see it. It came out great, you can't tell the silicone is there unless you look closely.

[boret]

These are the best pictures I could come up with:

[boret]

I got the LEDs from a T5 fixture someone was throwing away. I used the LEDs, the plastic housings for the LEDs and the power supply (even the switch!!). I think it was a current sundial fixture.
If you have a ACIII you can buy the Lunar module and screw it to the inside of the canopy.
You can get something like this and link a few:

[reefscape15]

yes I see! I hope I can get the back of the tank figured out to block the light too, but i'll have at least an overflow box to cut out for. I just don't like the light bouncing all over the walls. Maybe a fleece blanket cut and fastened to the back where any holes are?

[reefscape15]

Oh I already have those. I have the one module and 3 links now. I thought you had automotive style LED's in the top of your canopy?

[boret]

I probably would have done that... I love the LEDs!! Look at what I did to my Honda Shadow!

[reefscape15]

Nice! I thought it was you, but must have been someone else. Anyhow, I think i'll try it with just a 250watt MH and a bunch of LED's. I hope I can get good color like what I get with the T-5 suppliments I have now.

[boret]

You shouldn't have any light escaping from the sides.
I was going to use thin plywood, but ended up with thin MDF board (I think that's what its called) for the back. Anything to reduce the overall weight.

You can see the material on this picture:



The total cost of material was about $120 ($40 for the siding, $56 for the plywood, top and bottom and the uprights, and $15 for the brass screws, nuts and pan head screws for the siding), paint and silicone.

[reefscape15]

not bad! I could only imagine the price if I had to purchase a pre-made one. I'm planning on just a very thin wood for the front that I could easily bend, and then just some thin plywood for the sides.

[Hookup]

those lizard lights make me die a little inside...

[boret]

Originally Posted by Hookup

those lizard lights make me die a little inside...

LOL The cops wouldn't be happy with either blue, red, white or even purple in VA. Didn't have a lot of options

[Hookup]

you had two options..
1) cheeze up the bike
2) keep it cool

You chose door number 1...

I have a buddy who got an M109R and did the same thing... and I give him a really hard time about the effects-lights on his ride too...

Honestly, the bike looks great... I put, 50km on my ride this year... yeah, horrible i know........ really, horrible... weather, illnesses, etc for excuses.. but it at least 10lbs of fail in a 5lb bag if you ask me...

[boret]

I sold the bike over a year ago. I really like the vStrom, bigger engine and a great ride for long trips. Plus I get to go off road (on gravel roads). Lately I've been drooling over my next bike: Ducati Multistrada 1200 S

[reefscape15]

Well I told myself I was going to do something everyday on this long weekend with my canopy, so here's my effort for today



Hopefully by morning time i'll have enough bend in there that I can stretch it across the front.