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06/29/2007, 08:50 PM | #1 |
Moved On
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Winterhaven, fl
Posts: 4,081
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which cartridges do i need
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...roduct=YSP1335
i think this is the unit i recieved that is used it has 0 tds so should i just use it and see or what would you replace not knowing what has been replaced |
06/29/2007, 10:11 PM | #2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,104
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Sight unseen, I'd replace the three canisters (sediment, carbon block, and DI cartridge).
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06/30/2007, 04:55 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 4,857
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I'd agree. If you don't know much about the history of the system, start by removing ALL filters from the system. Clean/sanitize the system (if you need instructions let me know), then install new prefilters, and your old membrane. You may or may not need/want to change the DI resin at that time.
Russ @ BFS |
06/30/2007, 09:37 AM | #4 |
Moved On
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Winterhaven, fl
Posts: 4,081
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http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...product=RO2113
and buckey i would love to know how sanitize the system |
06/30/2007, 09:53 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 4,857
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We recommend sanitizing your RO/DI system approximately once per year. Schedule this process at a time when you are planning to replace your cartridges. These instructions apply to water purification systems without a pressure tank. Before you begin assure that you have about an hour available, and that your work area and hands are clean.
Turn off the water supply to the system. Remove all housings and remove all pre-filters and post-filters from the system including sediment filters, carbon filters, in-line filters, and deionization cartridges. Remove the reverse osmosis membrane(s). Wash housings with a soft brush or cloth in warm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap. Don’t forget to carefully remove and wash all o-rings. Lubricate the o-rings with a small amount of silicone grease and reinstall them. Fill each vertical housing with one cup of potable water and three to four tablespoons of household bleach, and with this sanitizing liquid still in the housings, screw them back on to the system. Turn on the water supply a bit, allow water to fill the entire system, and assure water is flowing out of the waste line and the purified water line. Place the outlet of the drain tube and purified water tube slightly higher than the system to assure these tubes are full of the sanitizing solution. When the sanitizing solution has reached the outlet of each tube, and with the outlet of each tube placed above the rest of the system, shut off the water supply for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, turn the water supply on and assure that water exits the system from both the drain tube and the purified water port. Flush the sanitizing solution from the system for 5 to 10 minutes. Turn off the water supply and install new filters. We recommend keeping a maintenance record for your system. Record the date of the sanitizing and filter replacement. Russ |
06/30/2007, 09:53 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: DFW
Posts: 839
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the Sediment and carbon filters are relatively cheap. The DI resin or cartridge a bit more expensive and the membrane is the most expensive. Given you have 0 TDS reading now, I would suggest you replace only the cheap sediment filter and carbon filter(s) first and run the system for awhile checking the output pre and post DI.
Membranes can last 5 or more years with normal usage. Why run the cost of your used system up if you just wanted to get clean water? Zero is as low as it gets. |
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