Best Temporary RO/DI Install Method?

Aimforever · 07/15/2007, 02:43 PM

I have had it with hauling water around for the last 8 months. Twice a week I drive 7 miles on my moped with two 2.5 gallon water jugs strapped to the back to get RO water for my tanks. I never have enough water on hand and my top off is always running dry. I'm a college student and move every year so I have been reluctant to setup a RO/DI unit... but I can't take it anymore!!!

I think i am going to get the 199.99 unit from the filter guys, but I'm not sure how I should install it. I know there are faucet adapters, but having it hooked up to the only sink in my apartment isn't ideal. I would prefer a cleaner install that is out of sight. How leak-proof are the piercing saddle valves? How would I remove it/repair it when I move out in a year? Could I plumb it to my showerhead somehow instead? Shower is used once per day, sink is used many many times.

I'm sure others out there have been in this situation. What did you do? Any suggestions would really be appreciated. I want to make sure I can get this installed cleanly, not have to worry about leaks, and be able to easily remove it when I move out. Thanks!

USC-fan · 07/15/2007, 02:50 PM

faucet adapters or hose adapter is the best way to go. i only hook the rodi up to make water and i make about 30 gallons each time.

Aimforever · 07/15/2007, 02:55 PM

Thanks for the quick reply. I've heard that you are supposed to keep pressure on the membrane to increase its life-span and the purity of the water coming out. Do you know if this is true? If not this would be great, as I could just stick it under the sink and hook up the faucet adapter as needed... I was just afraid this would be bad for the reasons I mentioned.

DarG · 07/15/2007, 02:57 PM

They make 2 way taps that screw onto the faucet. One has a little lever on it to control which of the two outlets provides the water flow. Each of the outlets has standard faucet threads so the RO faucet adapter should screw right on. Lowes or Home Depot should have them.

The saddle valves should be leak proof, They have a little gasket or o-ring or other seal that seals around where the pipe is pierced. I have never used one but have seen them. I assume there is a way to seal the hole if you stop using the connection. Probably need to leave the saddle behind when you remove the so system but whatever works, right? ...

The Filter guys unit works great, same one I have only I bought mine in pieces. They take up some room but you should be able to place them under the sink if you use the saddle type tap or on the counter against (or on) the wall if you use the faucet splitter.

You could also opt for one of the smaller units while you are in college and always in transition. They are usually a 3 Stage RO and a smaller horizontal DI all on one fairly compact frame. Definitely not as effective for higher TDS water, especially with the 1/2 capacity horizontal DI. But if your water supply has reasonable TDS, a unit like that should work great until you set down more permanent roots.

BTW ... I have a float valve and solenoid so pressure is off the unit when the water container is full. Before that, I shut the water supply off between use. I'm not sure if this is supposed to be bad for the unit or not but I have never had issues with shortened membrane life or any other problems by shutting pressure off.

USC-fan · 07/15/2007, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Aimforever
Thanks for the quick reply. I've heard that you are supposed to keep pressure on the membrane to increase its life-span and the purity of the water coming out. Do you know if this is true? If not this would be great, as I could just stick it under the sink and hook up the faucet adapter as needed... I was just afraid this would be bad for the reasons I mentioned.

I brought a typhoon III and it came with a much of ball valve that you just close to keep some water in the ro/di.

like this one pictured:

I been using it like this for over 2 years with out any problems. just make sure you get a tds meter when you buy your ro/di so you know when to replace your filters.

Aimforever · 07/15/2007, 03:16 PM

Excellent! Thanks for giving me the encouragement I needed to take the plunge. I can't wait to have RO on demand!!

rsw686 · 07/15/2007, 03:26 PM

I wouldn't go the saddle valve route. You can get a tee adapter for the water supply line running to your sink faucet. Turn off the shut off valve, unscrew the cold supply line going to the faucet, screw in the tee and hook up the supply line to the ro/di unit.

silverwolf72 · 07/15/2007, 04:18 PM

I just posed a thread with images about this, Been seeing it alot lately

07/15/2007, 02:43 PM	#1
Aimforever Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 281	Best Temporary RO/DI Install Method? I have had it with hauling water around for the last 8 months. Twice a week I drive 7 miles on my moped with two 2.5 gallon water jugs strapped to the back to get RO water for my tanks. I never have enough water on hand and my top off is always running dry. I'm a college student and move every year so I have been reluctant to setup a RO/DI unit... but I can't take it anymore!!! I think i am going to get the 199.99 unit from the filter guys, but I'm not sure how I should install it. I know there are faucet adapters, but having it hooked up to the only sink in my apartment isn't ideal. I would prefer a cleaner install that is out of sight. How leak-proof are the piercing saddle valves? How would I remove it/repair it when I move out in a year? Could I plumb it to my showerhead somehow instead? Shower is used once per day, sink is used many many times. I'm sure others out there have been in this situation. What did you do? Any suggestions would really be appreciated. I want to make sure I can get this installed cleanly, not have to worry about leaks, and be able to easily remove it when I move out. Thanks!

07/15/2007, 03:26 PM	#7
rsw686 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: VA Posts: 549	I wouldn't go the saddle valve route. You can get a tee adapter for the water supply line running to your sink faucet. Turn off the shut off valve, unscrew the cold supply line going to the faucet, screw in the tee and hook up the supply line to the ro/di unit. __________________ The Reptile File Forum (Google It) Discussion forum dedicated to geckos, lizards, snakes, turtles, amphibians, and other reptiles. Current Tank Info: 90gal reef w/ 20 gal sump, Aquactinics TX5, Octopus NW150, AquaController Jr.

07/15/2007, 02:50 PM	#2
USC-fan Premium Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 3,626	faucet adapters or hose adapter is the best way to go. i only hook the rodi up to make water and i make about 30 gallons each time.

07/15/2007, 02:55 PM	#3
Aimforever Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 281	Thanks for the quick reply. I've heard that you are supposed to keep pressure on the membrane to increase its life-span and the purity of the water coming out. Do you know if this is true? If not this would be great, as I could just stick it under the sink and hook up the faucet adapter as needed... I was just afraid this would be bad for the reasons I mentioned.

07/15/2007, 02:57 PM	#4
DarG Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 5,515	They make 2 way taps that screw onto the faucet. One has a little lever on it to control which of the two outlets provides the water flow. Each of the outlets has standard faucet threads so the RO faucet adapter should screw right on. Lowes or Home Depot should have them. The saddle valves should be leak proof, They have a little gasket or o-ring or other seal that seals around where the pipe is pierced. I have never used one but have seen them. I assume there is a way to seal the hole if you stop using the connection. Probably need to leave the saddle behind when you remove the so system but whatever works, right? ... The Filter guys unit works great, same one I have only I bought mine in pieces. They take up some room but you should be able to place them under the sink if you use the saddle type tap or on the counter against (or on) the wall if you use the faucet splitter. You could also opt for one of the smaller units while you are in college and always in transition. They are usually a 3 Stage RO and a smaller horizontal DI all on one fairly compact frame. Definitely not as effective for higher TDS water, especially with the 1/2 capacity horizontal DI. But if your water supply has reasonable TDS, a unit like that should work great until you set down more permanent roots. BTW ... I have a float valve and solenoid so pressure is off the unit when the water container is full. Before that, I shut the water supply off between use. I'm not sure if this is supposed to be bad for the unit or not but I have never had issues with shortened membrane life or any other problems by shutting pressure off.

07/15/2007, 03:16 PM	#6
Aimforever Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 281	Excellent! Thanks for giving me the encouragement I needed to take the plunge. I can't wait to have RO on demand!!

07/15/2007, 04:18 PM	#8
silverwolf72 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Lake Forrest CA Posts: 1,732	I just posed a thread with images about this, Been seeing it alot lately