RO/DI - AquaFX Mako

GV7486 · 07/10/2007, 11:26 AM

Hey Reefers!

I was wondering if anyone would help me make a couple of decisions on purchasing this unit. I'm planning on establishing a tank later on in the future, in the meantime I'm researching as much as possible.

I'm going to buy the RO/DI unit in advance since I'm interested in the RO water for drinking and I could "share" the DI water with a friend who has a reef aquarium.

My questions are these:

1. What are your opinions on the Chloramin Blasters upgrade for this kit?

2. Is there a kit out there that will restore Calcium and Magnesium back to the RO water so it will still provide essential minerals?

3. What's the best way to connect this unit to a water supply?

4.Can you provide me anything specific on the feed adaptors; inline sink, faucet, hose bib, quick connect, self piercing adaptors?

5. Would you recommend this RO/DI or not? If not, what would you recommend?

Thanks for your time!!!

AZDesertRat · 07/10/2007, 12:21 PM

Welcome to Reef Central !!!
I see you are new here so if I may make a couple of suggestions.
There are several sponsors here on RC that are very "Reef Savvy" and would be more than glad to answer your questions without twisting your arm. I myself try very hard to support the vendors that support this hobby and this website/forum in particular. There is a wealth of knowledge here just for the asking.

As for your questions:
1. Do you know if your water utility adds chloramines to the drinking water? If they do not there is little benefit to a chloramine upgrade. Normally a high quality 0.5 to 1.0 micron "chlorine guzzler" type carbon block will be more than adequate. Generally speaking the larger the pore size or micron rating the less chlorine it will adsorb. Granular carbon normally has a low capacity for chlorine removal with granular catalytic carbon being a bit of an exception.
2. Yes, www.spectrapure.com sells remineralization cartridges that are fantastic for excellent tasting drinking water and especially coffee.
3. To answer this we need to know if you intend it to be permanent or portable. I prefer a permanent installation so have mine hooked to the washing machine cold water faucet using a wye fitting. The unit is mounted over my laundry sink so it does not take up precious real estate under the wife's kitchen sink. I use it for drinking, ice maker, pet watering and RO/DI through various faucets and a 14G pressure tank.
4. A good site to see the various adapters and their uses is www.thefilterguys.biz . Along the left hand side of the page they have links to pictures of just about every fitting available.
5. As I said earlier I try to support RC Sponsors so my choices would be:
www.melevsreef.com
www.spectrapure.com
www.buckeyefieldsupply.com
www.thefilterguys.biz
and
www.purelyh2o.com

Most if not all are saltwater enthusiasts and can build you just about anything you would ever want.

likhten · 07/10/2007, 12:51 PM

What do you think about this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...0415&rd=1&rd=1
Thanks

dcombs44 · 07/10/2007, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by likhten
What do you think about this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...0415&rd=1&rd=1
Thanks

If you could've asked anyone on Reef Central about the Ebay unit, AZDesert Rat would be the last person you wanted to ask

As he mentioned above, RC members are going to recommend buying from RC sponsors. Their units are higher quality and they are here to ask questions if you have them.

Try:

www.Purelyh20.com
www.thefilterguys.biz
www.buckeyefieldsupply.com
www.melevsreef.com
www.spectrapure.com

Sponsors Page:
http://www.reefcentral.com/sponsors/

sage_commander · 07/10/2007, 01:33 PM

Not to threadjack, but I plan to buy the ocean wave or ocean wave plus from the filter guys and had a question for "Mr. Rat." Do you see a lot of waste water with your system only connected to your cold water faucet? I was going to try to connect hot and cold to get an efficient filtration. Should I even bother?

dcombs44 · 07/10/2007, 01:54 PM

I know little about filtration, but I know that my unit specifically stated to tap into the cold water only.

I would say that typical waste to good is 4:1, but that's a guess. AZ better take over from here.

AZDesertRat · 07/10/2007, 04:34 PM

Its not advisable to try and temper the water by hooking into both hot and cold. TFC membranes are made up of multiple layers of microscopically thin plastic film that will melt in a heartbeat with water over 113 degrees. Its very hard to adjust temperatures when you are only talking about ounces per minute or less and chances are you will damage the membrane in the process. If temperatures are an issue look at alternatives like multiple membranes or a booster pump.

sage_commander · 07/10/2007, 05:10 PM

Gotcha. Cold water only. More questions (sorry again for the threadjack):

Do I need to get the membrane flush kit up front? Can I add it on later? And would I need the pressure gauge only if my water pressure is in question (I have city water)? I already know I want the RO bypass valve, but once I know what's up on those other add ons I can go ahead and order. Thanks.

AZDesertRat · 07/10/2007, 05:20 PM

I believe flush valves are only of limited value. Most people do not use them correctly and if you have an automated system using an autoshutoff valve and pressure tank or topoff device you will not benefit from it. To work at all they need to be used each and every time the unit makes water just prior to shutting down. If you are automated you never know when it is making water so you don't know when to flush. I have never had one on any of my units, my tap water TDS averages over 800 and my membranes last 3+ years of very heavy use without one.
A pressure gauge is a good tool to have. Ideally you want it mounted after the prefilter and carbon block but before the membrane so you can see whne filters are plugging and in need of replacement. I actually use two of them, the one already mentioned plus one on the incoming tap water line so I can see actual pressure drop at a glance. The bypass is also good if you plan to use RO only water for drinking or an icemaker like I do.
All these can be added later but you usually end up paying more later than if you get a package deal to start with.

Duff Man · 07/10/2007, 05:42 PM

I also hooked mine up in the laundry room. The main reason was to have somewhere to put my waste water, which is into the washer. Using the washing machine as my waste "resevoir", I have been able to save a lot of water that would go down the drain. I have a 7 gallon jug that I keep excess waste in if the washer is in use. I use this water for watering plants, washing the car, etc, or to put into the washer for the next load.

sage_commander · 07/10/2007, 06:18 PM

OK. Thanks for the replies. Hopefully others in the market for a ro/di system will also see some of their questions answered here. I'll say it again, this forum and the folks on it are lifesavers.

GV7486 · 07/10/2007, 08:48 PM

I'm not sure if I have these correct or not...

Is 'waste water' RO water?

dcombs44 · 07/10/2007, 08:49 PM

Thanks for the expertise AZ. When did you join Team RC? I don't remember seeing the logo under your name the last time I was in one of your threads.

dcombs44 · 07/10/2007, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GV7486
I'm not sure if I have these correct or not...

Is 'waste water' RO water?

Nope, the waste water is just that, waste. It is basically water that wasn't pushed through the membrane and is therefore, discarded. It's just like the water out of your tap, only it's been through a poly and carbon filter. The water that eventually comes out the "green" hose is RO or RO/DI filtered water. If you don't have a DI chamber (many units do not) then you simply have RO water. RO membranes will typically get your TDS down to under ten and then the DI resin does something to neutralize the charge of the remaining charged ions bringing the TDS down to the ideal number of zero.

I think that's it in a nutshell. AZ please correct my mistatements if there are any.

AZDesertRat · 07/10/2007, 09:41 PM

The waste or brine water is what is used to flush the membrane. Yes, it has passed through a sediment and a carbon filter but it contains concentrated solids which have been flushed away from the membrane so it will be about 20 to 25% higher TDS than the original tap water. It is fine for laundry, watering the lawn and lots of other uses though.

Its hard to put a set TDS number to what the membrane will turn out but it should be 90 to 98% less than whatever your tap water was to begin with depending on which membrane you have.

I just became a member of Team RC and am excited about it! I guess I better sit up and pay attention now. I am glad I can share my knowledge with others as I certainly have learned from more people here than I can name, that's what its all about.

Buckeye Hydro · 07/15/2007, 05:10 AM

Rat - congratulations on your "promotion." You've helped so many folks with their RO/DI questions...

Russ

AZDesertRat · 07/15/2007, 07:10 PM

Thanks Russ.

GuySmilie · 07/15/2007, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by AZDesertRat
I just became a member of Team RC and am excited about it! I guess I better sit up and pay attention now.

WTG AZDR!!
Deserved.

07/10/2007, 11:26 AM	#1
GV7486 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 51	RO/DI - AquaFX Mako Hey Reefers! I was wondering if anyone would help me make a couple of decisions on purchasing this unit. I'm planning on establishing a tank later on in the future, in the meantime I'm researching as much as possible. I'm going to buy the RO/DI unit in advance since I'm interested in the RO water for drinking and I could "share" the DI water with a friend who has a reef aquarium. My questions are these: 1. What are your opinions on the Chloramin Blasters upgrade for this kit? 2. Is there a kit out there that will restore Calcium and Magnesium back to the RO water so it will still provide essential minerals? 3. What's the best way to connect this unit to a water supply? 4.Can you provide me anything specific on the feed adaptors; inline sink, faucet, hose bib, quick connect, self piercing adaptors? 5. Would you recommend this RO/DI or not? If not, what would you recommend? Thanks for your time!!!

07/10/2007, 12:51 PM	#3
likhten Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: New York, NY Posts: 96	What do you think about this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...0415&rd=1&rd=1 Thanks __________________ :fish1: Current Tank Info: 45g, LR 45lb, Skimmer AquaC, Filters: EHIME 2213 canister, internal FLUVAL 3, PH201

07/10/2007, 01:54 PM	#6
dcombs44 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Southern Illinois Posts: 2,913	I know little about filtration, but I know that my unit specifically stated to tap into the cold water only. I would say that typical waste to good is 4:1, but that's a guess. AZ better take over from here. __________________ Current Setup: 10 Gallon Skimmerless Zoanthid Tank Lighting: Single 175 Watt Metal Halide (14,000 K Hamilton Lamp) Filtration: 10 gallon sump/refugium and Phosban Reactor Return: Mag Drive 700 Controller: ReefKeeper Lite (Basic Version) Circulation: TBD Age of System: Build is in Progress

07/10/2007, 04:34 PM	#7
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	Its not advisable to try and temper the water by hooking into both hot and cold. TFC membranes are made up of multiple layers of microscopically thin plastic film that will melt in a heartbeat with water over 113 degrees. Its very hard to adjust temperatures when you are only talking about ounces per minute or less and chances are you will damage the membrane in the process. If temperatures are an issue look at alternatives like multiple membranes or a booster pump. Last edited by AZDesertRat; 07/10/2007 at 05:12 PM.

07/10/2007, 08:49 PM	#13
dcombs44 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Southern Illinois Posts: 2,913	Thanks for the expertise AZ. When did you join Team RC? I don't remember seeing the logo under your name the last time I was in one of your threads. __________________ Current Setup: 10 Gallon Skimmerless Zoanthid Tank Lighting: Single 175 Watt Metal Halide (14,000 K Hamilton Lamp) Filtration: 10 gallon sump/refugium and Phosban Reactor Return: Mag Drive 700 Controller: ReefKeeper Lite (Basic Version) Circulation: TBD Age of System: Build is in Progress

07/10/2007, 12:21 PM	#2
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	Welcome to Reef Central !!! I see you are new here so if I may make a couple of suggestions. There are several sponsors here on RC that are very "Reef Savvy" and would be more than glad to answer your questions without twisting your arm. I myself try very hard to support the vendors that support this hobby and this website/forum in particular. There is a wealth of knowledge here just for the asking. As for your questions: 1. Do you know if your water utility adds chloramines to the drinking water? If they do not there is little benefit to a chloramine upgrade. Normally a high quality 0.5 to 1.0 micron "chlorine guzzler" type carbon block will be more than adequate. Generally speaking the larger the pore size or micron rating the less chlorine it will adsorb. Granular carbon normally has a low capacity for chlorine removal with granular catalytic carbon being a bit of an exception. 2. Yes, www.spectrapure.com sells remineralization cartridges that are fantastic for excellent tasting drinking water and especially coffee. 3. To answer this we need to know if you intend it to be permanent or portable. I prefer a permanent installation so have mine hooked to the washing machine cold water faucet using a wye fitting. The unit is mounted over my laundry sink so it does not take up precious real estate under the wife's kitchen sink. I use it for drinking, ice maker, pet watering and RO/DI through various faucets and a 14G pressure tank. 4. A good site to see the various adapters and their uses is www.thefilterguys.biz . Along the left hand side of the page they have links to pictures of just about every fitting available. 5. As I said earlier I try to support RC Sponsors so my choices would be: www.melevsreef.com www.spectrapure.com www.buckeyefieldsupply.com www.thefilterguys.biz and www.purelyh2o.com Most if not all are saltwater enthusiasts and can build you just about anything you would ever want.

07/10/2007, 01:33 PM	#5
sage_commander Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Poulsbo WA Posts: 646	Not to threadjack, but I plan to buy the ocean wave or ocean wave plus from the filter guys and had a question for "Mr. Rat." Do you see a lot of waste water with your system only connected to your cold water faucet? I was going to try to connect hot and cold to get an efficient filtration. Should I even bother?

07/10/2007, 05:10 PM	#8
sage_commander Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Poulsbo WA Posts: 646	Gotcha. Cold water only. More questions (sorry again for the threadjack): Do I need to get the membrane flush kit up front? Can I add it on later? And would I need the pressure gauge only if my water pressure is in question (I have city water)? I already know I want the RO bypass valve, but once I know what's up on those other add ons I can go ahead and order. Thanks.

07/10/2007, 05:20 PM	#9
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	I believe flush valves are only of limited value. Most people do not use them correctly and if you have an automated system using an autoshutoff valve and pressure tank or topoff device you will not benefit from it. To work at all they need to be used each and every time the unit makes water just prior to shutting down. If you are automated you never know when it is making water so you don't know when to flush. I have never had one on any of my units, my tap water TDS averages over 800 and my membranes last 3+ years of very heavy use without one. A pressure gauge is a good tool to have. Ideally you want it mounted after the prefilter and carbon block but before the membrane so you can see whne filters are plugging and in need of replacement. I actually use two of them, the one already mentioned plus one on the incoming tap water line so I can see actual pressure drop at a glance. The bypass is also good if you plan to use RO only water for drinking or an icemaker like I do. All these can be added later but you usually end up paying more later than if you get a package deal to start with.

07/10/2007, 05:42 PM	#10
Duff Man Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Chicago's far NW burbs Posts: 629	I also hooked mine up in the laundry room. The main reason was to have somewhere to put my waste water, which is into the washer. Using the washing machine as my waste "resevoir", I have been able to save a lot of water that would go down the drain. I have a 7 gallon jug that I keep excess waste in if the washer is in use. I use this water for watering plants, washing the car, etc, or to put into the washer for the next load.

07/10/2007, 06:18 PM	#11
sage_commander Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Poulsbo WA Posts: 646	OK. Thanks for the replies. Hopefully others in the market for a ro/di system will also see some of their questions answered here. I'll say it again, this forum and the folks on it are lifesavers.

07/10/2007, 08:48 PM	#12
GV7486 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 51	I'm not sure if I have these correct or not... Is 'waste water' RO water?

07/10/2007, 09:41 PM	#15
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	The waste or brine water is what is used to flush the membrane. Yes, it has passed through a sediment and a carbon filter but it contains concentrated solids which have been flushed away from the membrane so it will be about 20 to 25% higher TDS than the original tap water. It is fine for laundry, watering the lawn and lots of other uses though. Its hard to put a set TDS number to what the membrane will turn out but it should be 90 to 98% less than whatever your tap water was to begin with depending on which membrane you have. I just became a member of Team RC and am excited about it! I guess I better sit up and pay attention now. I am glad I can share my knowledge with others as I certainly have learned from more people here than I can name, that's what its all about.

07/15/2007, 05:10 AM	#16
Buckeye Hydro .Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 4,857	Rat - congratulations on your "promotion." You've helped so many folks with their RO/DI questions... Russ

07/15/2007, 07:10 PM	#17
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	Thanks Russ.