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Unread 09/14/2007, 04:08 PM   #1
MstgKillr
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Ballast in garage?

I am setting up my new tank in the living room next to the garage. I already have the plumbing through the wall so that I can do all water changes and top offs from the garage. I was thinking of running the ballasts (M80's) from the garage and just bringing the cables over. The length of the cable will be more than enough but my concern is the heat. I live in Florida and in the summer time my garage will get in the high 90's. Would the high temp have a negative effect on the ballasts.

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Unread 09/14/2007, 04:15 PM   #2
SENSIREEF
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Hello, You should not have any issues with these ballast running in temperatures which you stated, I would mount the ballast up on the wall or on some type of shelf; to prevent any water or any other obstacles, dogs, kids, ect.. These ballast can operate in temperatures that can get up to 120* F with no issues at all. I would place a small fan blowing on them, when you run into those hot summer months. Hope all works out well for you. Happy Reefing!


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Unread 09/14/2007, 05:12 PM   #3
MstgKillr
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I have had one person tell me not to do it.

What about electronic ballasts?


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Unread 09/14/2007, 05:51 PM   #4
Racing1
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If you switch to electronic you will have no problems at all. Electronic run way cooler than the m80's do.


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Unread 09/14/2007, 06:33 PM   #5
pjf
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Firewall

I don't recommend drilling holes in the garage wall at all locations. In my neighborhood, the building codes do not allow any authorized openings between the garage and living areas. Apparently, the sheetrock between the garage and living area is thicker and acts as a fire barrier.


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Unread 09/14/2007, 07:19 PM   #6
MstgKillr
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Its actually cinderblock and sheetrock.


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Unread 09/14/2007, 07:32 PM   #7
Alphabet
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After you drill your holes and run your lines you need to fill around any openings with a fire rated caulk. It's red, and I don't know the name offhand. Also your sheetrock on the garage wall should be 5/8".


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Unread 09/14/2007, 08:05 PM   #8
Alphabet
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Its called "Fire Stop" it is a caulk, which is what you want. They also have a silicone, and a self-leveling silicone, if you were intrested. HTH


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Unread 09/14/2007, 08:13 PM   #9
oldreefer76
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you can buy the caulk at Home Dept and runs around $10 a tube it is in the paint dept and you definitely want the red and 1 tube will be more than enough to do what you need


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Unread 09/15/2007, 06:36 AM   #10
MstgKillr
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Is the fire issue that big of a deal?

Currently I only have one 3" pipe through the wall, and I was going to run multiple pipes through that 3" pipe. Is this the wrong way? I filled in around the 3" pipe with hydraulic cement. What should I do now?

Any other input on the performance of the M80 ballast or electronic ballast in the garage heat.


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Unread 09/15/2007, 06:51 AM   #11
anemoneguy
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the reason for the fire stop/caulk is in the event of a fire say in your living room you could draw in air through the hole and feed the fire. having one 3 inch hole is good, but fill not only around this, but whn you run whatever your going to run inside it make sure to also seal the inside portion of the pipe all around the lines etc... good luck


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Unread 09/15/2007, 01:47 PM   #12
MstgKillr
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Any other opinions on ballast performance in the garage heat?


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Unread 09/15/2007, 01:51 PM   #13
MstgKillr
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Quote:
Originally posted by anemoneguy
the reason for the fire stop/caulk is in the event of a fire say in your living room you could draw in air through the hole and feed the fire. having one 3 inch hole is good, but fill not only around this, but whn you run whatever your going to run inside it make sure to also seal the inside portion of the pipe all around the lines etc... good luck
That doesn't make sense to me. What if a window was open, wouldn't it feed the fire also?

I am not arguing, it just doesn't make sense.

I can see the restriction on the holes for maybe toxic fumes.


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Unread 09/15/2007, 03:03 PM   #14
snulma1
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Its more to prevent toxic fumes from items in your garage, or your car from seeping back into the house and hurting you. But I think if you seal it properly and you are within the ballasts allowed wiring distance you should be fine.


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Unread 09/15/2007, 09:23 PM   #15
Alphabet
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That doesn't make sense to me. What if a window was open, wouldn't it feed the fire also?


Thats just one of those rules from the city codes, and the fire marshal.

As far as heat you could use a small fan. Are these equipped with heat sinks?


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Unread 09/16/2007, 07:40 AM   #16
MstgKillr
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they are blue wave ballasts.


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Unread 09/16/2007, 02:42 PM   #17
Fishie Nut
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I've got all my electrical in the garage. I put in a double outlet box (open on both sides) on the garage side and the house side of the wall. I have my chiller, my Deltec 702, Ca Reactor, Nilsen, all my electric, ballasts, Tunzes, CL pump -- Everything. The only thing have in the house is the the pump to the skimmer. Unfortunately, the sump is in the house. I live in So Cal and it's 120 outside in the summer and much hotter in the garage. I have the ballasts on a shelf in a cabinet above everything that is "wet". I have a small fan blowing over the ballasts. I'm using the new IceCap eballasts and I haven't had any problems. They actually run pretty cool. The "hottest" thing is the 1/3 hp drop in chiller.

So I have my double outlet box hole with all kinds of wires and tubing running through it. I have two pipes running through another portion of the wall for the skimmer in/out. I've used cable covers -- I don't know what they're called. They are round with a split and you put wires into them -- to organize the wires and the tubing, etc. Them pumped some canned styrofoam into the spaces and it sealed it up just fine. I caulked around the piping. No leaks.

Here's an in progress pic:

[IMG][/IMG]


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Current Tank Info: 225 gal LeeMar Reef; Deltec AP 702, ProFiLux, 90 gal sump/fuge, 3x250 HQI Lumenarcs. 4x96W PC actinics; 375 lbs LR; 3" LS; Hammerhead CL, Korallin c3002, KM500, Auto Water Change/Top Off; Aquatinics 1/3 HP drop in
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