Used paint thinner on glass...am I screwed!? - Page 2

iwishtofish · 09/17/2007, 06:03 AM

If I were you, I would ditch the tank and never have to worry about the chemical ever again. But this advice is coming from someone who won't even spray glass or kitchen cleaner in the same room with his open-top tank.

If you use the tank, and things don't do well in your newly-established reef, you might always be wondering if that chemical was the cause. Sure it will cost you $60-$70 to replace the tank, but at least you won't wonder (rationally, or not) if every $30-$40 frag or fish you buy in the future is a waste of money.

MinnFish · 09/17/2007, 06:10 AM

If, my concerns was as strong as yours. I would give the trash company a little gift. You will have enough worries in this hobby. Why not get off on the right track. Worry free=curb side.

tigga · 09/17/2007, 07:12 AM

dont think ill ditch the tank because I only rubbed a bit on the inside glass and it was no where near the silicone. I rubbed it vinegar since it was suggested so I'm hoping its eliminated and come on if my fish die their are million other reasons why it would have died such as the silcone already been exposed to chemicals at the factory the tank was made in.

pikachusalad · 09/17/2007, 08:02 AM

Unfortunately...I don't think ANYONE will be able to 100% guarantee anything...

I recently bought an AGA 29 gallon for $39.99 on sale (reg $49.99).

When you think about all the $$ you're going to shell out for live rock and fish/coral...$39.99 (or even $49.99) for the piece of mind that the chemical you used won't kill your livestock is a pretty reasonable price.

That said...if if were my tank - I'd clean with vinegar or muratic acid as suggested, and if I was satisfied with how clean I got it - not even the slightest HINT of residue when dry - AND if I was SURE none got in the silicone...I'd probably use it - but this is a personal choice (and a drilled 75 gallon costs more than $40).

tigga · 09/17/2007, 08:37 AM

So if the residue is gone then I'm sure its eliminated? Because I know for sure when I rubbed it with vinegar, it easily rubbed off and now the glass is crystal clear with no white spots.

moze229 · 09/17/2007, 08:37 AM

No offense tigga, but are you trying to run up your post count or something? You keep asking if it's OK to use, some say no some say yes. The people that tell you how to clean it, you seem to doubt. The people that say not to use it, you reply with a refusal to use another tank. So, it's obvious that there is only one choice for you. Just use the tank already and quit asking.

Matt

tigga · 09/17/2007, 08:46 AM

haha sorry about that but thats how I am sometimes. What'll make me happy is if its okay once the residue is gone from the glass. I'm not sure if the thinner can be invisible and still be there so if someone says that if the white residue is gone then its 99.9% okay to use the tank then I'll be relieved.

pikachusalad · 09/17/2007, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by tigga
So if the residue is gone then I'm sure its eliminated? Because I know for sure when I rubbed it with vinegar, it easily rubbed off and now the glass is crystal clear with no white spots.

You could try calling the company that made the chemical you used...and ask them if it can be completely cleaned off of glass....and the company that made the stain...and ask them if it can be completely cleaned off glass using the chemical you used, followed by vinegar...

Aside from that, as moze229 mentioned - I think you've squeezed everything possible out of RC members.

tigga · 09/17/2007, 12:43 PM

i called the company and they told me to use acetone or isopropene to remove the thinner residue/traces.

MinnFish · 09/17/2007, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tigga
if someone says that if the white residue is gone then its 99.9% okay to use the tank then I'll be relieved.

The residue is gone and its 99.9% okay to use. I said it. Now what? Use it or put it on the curb. We have all tried to help you one way or the other. And you still are fighting the tide. You want answers or not. I say yes, you say no. I say no, you say yes. The sky is blue. No its marine blue. I give up. Have a great day. Please.

09/17/2007, 06:10 AM	#27
MinnFish Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Home of 10,000 lakes Posts: 917	If, my concerns was as strong as yours. I would give the trash company a little gift. You will have enough worries in this hobby. Why not get off on the right track. Worry free=curb side. __________________ 33G Long, 4x54 watt T5, Tunze 6025, Tunze Osmolator ATO, Tunze Streamfilter 3163 Posts about moving an oversized fish to a bigger tank. Is like hearing every stripper is just working to pay for colle

09/17/2007, 08:02 AM	#29
pikachusalad Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Saint Paul, MN Posts: 402	Unfortunately...I don't think ANYONE will be able to 100% guarantee anything... I recently bought an AGA 29 gallon for $39.99 on sale (reg $49.99). When you think about all the $$ you're going to shell out for live rock and fish/coral...$39.99 (or even $49.99) for the piece of mind that the chemical you used won't kill your livestock is a pretty reasonable price. That said...if if were my tank - I'd clean with vinegar or muratic acid as suggested, and if I was satisfied with how clean I got it - not even the slightest HINT of residue when dry - AND if I was SURE none got in the silicone...I'd probably use it - but this is a personal choice (and a drilled 75 gallon costs more than $40). __________________ -- Mike Current Tank Info: 60G reef

09/17/2007, 08:37 AM	#31
moze229 Premium Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Triangle Area, NC Posts: 678	No offense tigga, but are you trying to run up your post count or something? You keep asking if it's OK to use, some say no some say yes. The people that tell you how to clean it, you seem to doubt. The people that say not to use it, you reply with a refusal to use another tank. So, it's obvious that there is only one choice for you. Just use the tank already and quit asking. Matt __________________ The best things in life are free....except for reef tanks :( "What don't kill you - make you more strong." - James Hetfield Current Tank Info: 24 Aquapod w/120w LED Bridgelux 55 X 3 - Softies and LPS

09/17/2007, 06:03 AM	#26
iwishtofish Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Southern Maryland Posts: 4,949	If I were you, I would ditch the tank and never have to worry about the chemical ever again. But this advice is coming from someone who won't even spray glass or kitchen cleaner in the same room with his open-top tank. If you use the tank, and things don't do well in your newly-established reef, you might always be wondering if that chemical was the cause. Sure it will cost you $60-$70 to replace the tank, but at least you won't wonder (rationally, or not) if every $30-$40 frag or fish you buy in the future is a waste of money.

09/17/2007, 07:12 AM	#28
tigga Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 196	dont think ill ditch the tank because I only rubbed a bit on the inside glass and it was no where near the silicone. I rubbed it vinegar since it was suggested so I'm hoping its eliminated and come on if my fish die their are million other reasons why it would have died such as the silcone already been exposed to chemicals at the factory the tank was made in.

09/17/2007, 08:46 AM	#32
tigga Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 196	haha sorry about that but thats how I am sometimes. What'll make me happy is if its okay once the residue is gone from the glass. I'm not sure if the thinner can be invisible and still be there so if someone says that if the white residue is gone then its 99.9% okay to use the tank then I'll be relieved.

09/17/2007, 12:43 PM	#34
tigga Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 196	i called the company and they told me to use acetone or isopropene to remove the thinner residue/traces.