Mixed Bed DI resin

DarG · 11/10/2007, 12:45 PM

Wondering if anyone has used the Nuclear grade, mixed bed, color changing DI resin from Two Part Solution?

I usually use the DI resin from The Filter Guys but I was making a purchase at Two Part Solution and needed some resin so I grabbed a couple of bags to avoid having to pay for shipping from 2 different places. I go through quite a bit due to high CO2 in my supply water which I cant remedy right now for a couple of reasons.

It is definitely different looking than the Filter Guys DI. Just wondering if anyone has any comments on this resin. Does it seem to work as well, last as long etc? I havent had to use it yet, but soon. So, any input would be great.

Thanks

AZDesertRat · 11/10/2007, 03:10 PM

Don't waste your money on color changing resins. Non color changing is better water quality wiseand usually costs less.
You need to use a good TDS meter to check the water quality anyway since you can never rely on color changes to be anywhere near accurate, its usually too late and you are passing high TDS water on.

DarG · 11/10/2007, 04:46 PM

Thanks, not exactly what I was looking for but thanks.

Actually, I do have a TDS meter and do routinely check my water post RO and post DI. I use dual vertical DI canisters and I do go by the color of the first stage of DI to do my DI changes. I have always measured 0 TDS for my final water. I know that the color change isnt supposed to be reliable but it is giving me 0 TDS water so I'm not inclined to change things up. Second DI stage never starts turning color unless I leave the first stage in past the point where it is totally changed color. And when I do my changes I put the second stage in the first stage position and then new resin in the second stage. It also seems that the second stage lasts just as long when I rotate it into the first position as brand new resin does if I place it in the first position. I experimented a bit with this when I first got the system.

So again, while I know that the color change is not supposed to be accurate, I havent found anything to tell me that it isnt atleast a good ball park way to guage exhaustion of the resin. Personally, Im not going to worry about how I get the 0 TDS water despite the "rules" regarding color changing resins. It works for me.

AZ, I do respect your input on this and appreciate the info you provide on water filtration on the forum. So please dont take the above as my disregarding your input. This is just something that works for me despite it not being the "correct" way to do things.
People in general dont tend to discontinue doing things the way that works for them.

Thanks again.

So, anyone use this resin from Two Part?

AZDesertRat · 11/10/2007, 04:58 PM

Install a tee and ball valve between your two DI canisters so you can do a more accurate job of judging when to change resin. It will cost maybe $6 or $8 and save you that on resin in the first change or two. Color changing is terrible, it really is. You will be surprised what you find when you test it.

Two Parts resin is the same stuff everyone uses. Almost all of it comes from Purolite. The local clubs here in Phoenix have bought some of it and it seems to work the same as any other nuclear grade resin.

DarG · 11/10/2007, 05:23 PM

Where is the savings supposed to be, in the differences in cost between the resins? The resins are the same price at the Filter Guys where I usually get my RO DI stuff.

Or are you saying that the color changing resin changes color before it is exhausted so I am throwing it out prematurely?

The housings are threaded together on the same mounting bracket. No way to really seperate them to installe the T and valve. I'd have to remount them and space is tight there as it is.

So you are saying that the color changing resin is bad, period? I'm not sure how I can get 0 TDS water if it isnt very effective. How bad can it be anyway? TDS measures 2 - 3 TDS after RO. The color changing resin should be capable of knocking that down to 0, right?

Before I replaced the membrane I was getting 9 or 10 TDS after RO and still got 0 TDS after the DI.

What am I missing here? Are you saying that the color changing is bad as in adding its own toxins to the water ? or just that it is exhausted way before it changes?

AZDesertRat · 11/10/2007, 05:39 PM

Color changing does add dyes to the water in slight amounts. You never know when color changes take place, it can be early or late. The savings is in extending the life of the downstream cartridge by not putting elevated TDS into it when the first resin is nearing exhaustion or exhausted. Remember phosphates and silicates are released early when resin is close to exhaustion, without a good meter you may not see it and even then they can go undetected since they are so weakly ioniozed. Don't chance it, use a handheld meter on both DI positions.

DarG · 11/10/2007, 06:46 PM

I do use a handheld meter. I dont even have an inline meter.

I see what you are saying and I appreciate the input. I'm not seeing anything other than 0 TDS after DI. I do test my RO/DI water routinely. I can test the water after the first DI stage, I just have to remove the canister of the second stage and catch some water to test. I'll take a look at it. Thanks AZ.

11/10/2007, 12:45 PM	#1
DarG Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 5,515	Mixed Bed DI resin Wondering if anyone has used the Nuclear grade, mixed bed, color changing DI resin from Two Part Solution? I usually use the DI resin from The Filter Guys but I was making a purchase at Two Part Solution and needed some resin so I grabbed a couple of bags to avoid having to pay for shipping from 2 different places. I go through quite a bit due to high CO2 in my supply water which I cant remedy right now for a couple of reasons. It is definitely different looking than the Filter Guys DI. Just wondering if anyone has any comments on this resin. Does it seem to work as well, last as long etc? I havent had to use it yet, but soon. So, any input would be great. Thanks

11/10/2007, 03:10 PM	#2
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	Don't waste your money on color changing resins. Non color changing is better water quality wiseand usually costs less. You need to use a good TDS meter to check the water quality anyway since you can never rely on color changes to be anywhere near accurate, its usually too late and you are passing high TDS water on.

11/10/2007, 04:46 PM	#3
DarG Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 5,515	Thanks, not exactly what I was looking for but thanks. Actually, I do have a TDS meter and do routinely check my water post RO and post DI. I use dual vertical DI canisters and I do go by the color of the first stage of DI to do my DI changes. I have always measured 0 TDS for my final water. I know that the color change isnt supposed to be reliable but it is giving me 0 TDS water so I'm not inclined to change things up. Second DI stage never starts turning color unless I leave the first stage in past the point where it is totally changed color. And when I do my changes I put the second stage in the first stage position and then new resin in the second stage. It also seems that the second stage lasts just as long when I rotate it into the first position as brand new resin does if I place it in the first position. I experimented a bit with this when I first got the system. So again, while I know that the color change is not supposed to be accurate, I havent found anything to tell me that it isnt atleast a good ball park way to guage exhaustion of the resin. Personally, Im not going to worry about how I get the 0 TDS water despite the "rules" regarding color changing resins. It works for me. AZ, I do respect your input on this and appreciate the info you provide on water filtration on the forum. So please dont take the above as my disregarding your input. This is just something that works for me despite it not being the "correct" way to do things. People in general dont tend to discontinue doing things the way that works for them. Thanks again. So, anyone use this resin from Two Part?

11/10/2007, 04:58 PM	#4
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	Install a tee and ball valve between your two DI canisters so you can do a more accurate job of judging when to change resin. It will cost maybe $6 or $8 and save you that on resin in the first change or two. Color changing is terrible, it really is. You will be surprised what you find when you test it. Two Parts resin is the same stuff everyone uses. Almost all of it comes from Purolite. The local clubs here in Phoenix have bought some of it and it seems to work the same as any other nuclear grade resin.

11/10/2007, 05:23 PM	#5
DarG Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 5,515	Where is the savings supposed to be, in the differences in cost between the resins? The resins are the same price at the Filter Guys where I usually get my RO DI stuff. Or are you saying that the color changing resin changes color before it is exhausted so I am throwing it out prematurely? The housings are threaded together on the same mounting bracket. No way to really seperate them to installe the T and valve. I'd have to remount them and space is tight there as it is. So you are saying that the color changing resin is bad, period? I'm not sure how I can get 0 TDS water if it isnt very effective. How bad can it be anyway? TDS measures 2 - 3 TDS after RO. The color changing resin should be capable of knocking that down to 0, right? Before I replaced the membrane I was getting 9 or 10 TDS after RO and still got 0 TDS after the DI. What am I missing here? Are you saying that the color changing is bad as in adding its own toxins to the water ? or just that it is exhausted way before it changes?

11/10/2007, 05:39 PM	#6
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	Color changing does add dyes to the water in slight amounts. You never know when color changes take place, it can be early or late. The savings is in extending the life of the downstream cartridge by not putting elevated TDS into it when the first resin is nearing exhaustion or exhausted. Remember phosphates and silicates are released early when resin is close to exhaustion, without a good meter you may not see it and even then they can go undetected since they are so weakly ioniozed. Don't chance it, use a handheld meter on both DI positions.

11/10/2007, 06:46 PM	#7
DarG Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 5,515	I do use a handheld meter. I dont even have an inline meter. I see what you are saying and I appreciate the input. I'm not seeing anything other than 0 TDS after DI. I do test my RO/DI water routinely. I can test the water after the first DI stage, I just have to remove the canister of the second stage and catch some water to test. I'll take a look at it. Thanks AZ.