3 month old tank parameters... normal?

expl0d · 11/15/2007, 05:06 PM

Hi i've had my tank for 3 months now its a 24" deep 65g hexagon acrylic tank.. 40lbs. of base rock and about 60lbs. of live rock. 2" crushed coral bed. a fluorescent light. protein skimmer and wet/dry sump with bioballs. 2 powerheads angled slightly at one another for that crazy water flow. I aquascaped about 2 days ago and did a water test (not sure if that affects the water conditions). the tank temp is a steady 79Âº. The livestock consists of: yellow tank. 2 nemo's and a chainlink moray eel.

The water conditions were ( used a quick dip 5-in-1)
nitrate: 140
nitrITE: 0
Alkalinity: 170
pH: 7.6

I've had spikes of nitrate with the tank. did a water change 2 weeks ago (about a 12g water change with meijer distilled water, used 1 cup of sea salt and let it cycle with a powerhead over night). and then it appeared fine but it comes back. (not sure if my fish are heavy poopers or what).

Anyways im looking to move into a reef tank and not sure if the signs of my LR are good or what. The only change ive noticed are darker coloration (greenish brown) and some whiteish hairy (algae?) growth... the crushed coral also has some green growth. my question is.. is the spiking normal for a tank that isnt well established? Will the LR come to life? do the other conditions of the tank seem well? Is there anything I should do to promote a good tank before going with some corals in the tank?

I love my tank and my fish seem to be very happy and playful.
Happy reefing.
Jay

BangkokMatt · 11/16/2007, 12:40 AM

You should test before a WC or a dar after to get accurate readings.
Your nitrates are high. This is probably due to you using bio balls. If you are going to move into a full reef I would get rid of them altogether. Take a handful out per day until they are gone.
You will also need to change your light for something a lot more powerful (though the description of a flourescent light could mean anything, what type is it and what power and spectrum).
You should also check your phosphate levels if you are having an algae problem. You should start checking Calcium and Magnesium as well. These are important if you are keeping a reef.
I would do more research before you start your reef tank and keep asking questions.

11/15/2007, 05:06 PM	#1
expl0d Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 7	3 month old tank parameters... normal? Hi i've had my tank for 3 months now its a 24" deep 65g hexagon acrylic tank.. 40lbs. of base rock and about 60lbs. of live rock. 2" crushed coral bed. a fluorescent light. protein skimmer and wet/dry sump with bioballs. 2 powerheads angled slightly at one another for that crazy water flow. I aquascaped about 2 days ago and did a water test (not sure if that affects the water conditions). the tank temp is a steady 79Âº. The livestock consists of: yellow tank. 2 nemo's and a chainlink moray eel. The water conditions were ( used a quick dip 5-in-1) nitrate: 140 nitrITE: 0 Alkalinity: 170 pH: 7.6 I've had spikes of nitrate with the tank. did a water change 2 weeks ago (about a 12g water change with meijer distilled water, used 1 cup of sea salt and let it cycle with a powerhead over night). and then it appeared fine but it comes back. (not sure if my fish are heavy poopers or what). Anyways im looking to move into a reef tank and not sure if the signs of my LR are good or what. The only change ive noticed are darker coloration (greenish brown) and some whiteish hairy (algae?) growth... the crushed coral also has some green growth. my question is.. is the spiking normal for a tank that isnt well established? Will the LR come to life? do the other conditions of the tank seem well? Is there anything I should do to promote a good tank before going with some corals in the tank? I love my tank and my fish seem to be very happy and playful. Happy reefing. Jay __________________ 65g Hex

11/16/2007, 12:40 AM	#2
BangkokMatt Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Krung Thep Posts: 3,100	You should test before a WC or a dar after to get accurate readings. Your nitrates are high. This is probably due to you using bio balls. If you are going to move into a full reef I would get rid of them altogether. Take a handful out per day until they are gone. You will also need to change your light for something a lot more powerful (though the description of a flourescent light could mean anything, what type is it and what power and spectrum). You should also check your phosphate levels if you are having an algae problem. You should start checking Calcium and Magnesium as well. These are important if you are keeping a reef. I would do more research before you start your reef tank and keep asking questions. __________________ I've spent a lot of money on booze, women and fish. The rest I just squandered. Current Tank Info: 150g sps Reef (now FOWLR after a devastating crash due to chiller) , 2x400w MH (Icecap ballast, Lumenmax 2, Reeflux 12k SE), Deltec AP701, Grotech Tec III, Chiller, 2 x Tunze 6101, 1 x 6205 (+ m/c), bla bla