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11/22/2007, 01:58 PM | #1 |
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Hang on Filter or Canister???
Ok, so i have used both a hang on whisper, and bio wheel filter. Im now running a magnum 350 canister filter. Im not 100% sure im a huge fan of the canister comparted to the hang on. I was wondering if i could get some opinions on the topic.
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11/22/2007, 02:21 PM | #2 |
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IMO canister ars better. they look less ugly hanging off the tank. and they hold 10x+ the amount of media.. water or LR etc. but everyones different. loadsa of ppl dont like canister as they say they will harbour nitrites... but as long as u clean them regularly. its fine !
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11/23/2007, 08:42 AM | #3 |
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Depends on how soon the canister filter becomes dirty - mine had to be cleaned after 3 days max, and hang-on don't clean too much at all. Now have micron socks and skimmers even in a small tanks.
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Multiple Tank Syndrome: 15g shallow hi light - Xmas tree rocks, nps, sps, clams 6g shallow dark - sun corals collection 5g - sea apples NC12 - tube anemone 20g L - frogfish 125g - filefishes and lion Current Tank Info: 6 BB tanks: NPS, filter feeders and odd fish. LPS, sps and clams too |
11/23/2007, 10:34 AM | #4 |
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Magnum 350 with a micron cart is one of the best for a reef tank. Really any mag that holds the micron is good. Gives tight filtration, and it is easy to see when the white becomes less so or the filter collapses. These also are easily bleached and reused. These are not a nitrate factory used this way. Second would be the aqua clear brand hang on. They have by far the best flow and largest media area- easily used for anything you want as opposed to just manufacures envelope.
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11/23/2007, 11:43 AM | #5 |
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i have worked with both types of filters and i think its a matter of personal choice. They both have their advantages.., the hang on would provide more oxygen and would be easier to clean, the canister is more versatile and can be used with a variety of media....
I have seen many successful tanks using nothing more than a hob filter. I think if your tank has enough live rock and or live sand then i would lean towards the simplicity of the HOB filter....if youre okay with how they look that is.... i know i certinaly am. |
11/23/2007, 01:01 PM | #6 |
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Both bio-wheels and canisters really don't apply well to reef tanks.
The canister is a nitrate sink and bio's really are FW only. A hang on can be used w/ no media just to move water, or as a mini fuge/place for carbon or whatever, but there are many better options.
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There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD |
11/23/2007, 01:09 PM | #7 |
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davocean.........many better options, i definatly beleive you, please share..... please keep in mind that some, like myself does not have an overflow on their aquarium, please share your thoughts.....
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11/23/2007, 01:33 PM | #8 |
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I ran my 90g for years w/out overflow/sump.
I did use a HO for a fuge for a while just because I had one laying around and wanted pod growth for manderin, but that was about it, just making due w/ what I had. Really, LR and something to move water as in PH's, a skimmer really helps. It all depends on what you want/have to spend, but I look for low wattage in PH's(less heat) tunze's, koralias. Stay away from things w/ filter pads/sponges that tend to hold deitrus material causing higher nitrates.
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There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD |
11/23/2007, 01:51 PM | #9 |
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I agree with dave on the pads sponges envelopes thing 1000%. the micron in the magnum is the same material as the filter socks used in sumps- but moves more water at pressure thus lowering its nitrate production.
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My views are based on 49years as an aquarist, 25 years as a pro reef consultant, 10 years of owning a LFS, and the results of thousands of customers tanks. But I am always learning. |
11/23/2007, 02:10 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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11/23/2007, 02:21 PM | #11 |
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I'm not the best at explaining this, but basically if you have pads/sponge stuff WILL be trapped, and unless you clean those pads like every other day it's a prob.
LR continues to produce dentrifiying "stuff" or enzymes or whatever which makes it MUCH better. LR is one of the strongest components of your filtration system.
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There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD |
11/23/2007, 02:53 PM | #12 |
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Thanks for all the advice i appreciate it. I think ill stick with my magnum 350. I would like to eventually build a sump etc. Thanks again.
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11/24/2007, 12:21 AM | #13 |
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Basically the concept of a berlin system- which is the use of live rock and skimming, was introduced at a time when wet dry filtration was all the rage. The less efficient live rock was able to keep nitrates lower by its inefficint ability to process amoinia compared to a wet dry. This allowed more waste to be removed by the skimmer before it went through the nitrogen cycle. Since then people have kind of misconstrude this to mean any filter is bad- which is not true. The diffrence between tanks with filter socks- which catch everything, and tanks with free flowing sumps is undetectable- as long as everything is properly maintained. It generally takes 2 to 4 weeks for bacteria to colonise (ie cycle) so as long as you change your filter media and completly clean the filter- you would be better off in all likelyhood than letting the stuff rot in the tank.
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My views are based on 49years as an aquarist, 25 years as a pro reef consultant, 10 years of owning a LFS, and the results of thousands of customers tanks. But I am always learning. |
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