Gravity feed? - Page 2

geraldwhite · 12/29/2007, 05:18 PM

Humm they dont have my pump on the head loss calc... anyway Im running two pumps as you know..

Turbo-Sea 790P
3/4" inlet/ 3/4" outlet
793 gph at 0 ft., 20.7 ft Max Head

Turbo-Sea 1740P
1" inlet/1" outlet
1744 gph at 0 ft., 39.4 ft Max Head

geraldwhite · 12/29/2007, 05:18 PM

Double post....

Aquarist007 · 12/30/2007, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by geraldwhite
Humm they dont have my pump on the head loss calc... anyway Im running two pumps as you know..

Turbo-Sea 790P
3/4" inlet/ 3/4" outlet
793 gph at 0 ft., 20.7 ft Max Head

Turbo-Sea 1740P
1" inlet/1" outlet
1744 gph at 0 ft., 39.4 ft Max Head

if this is for the 300g then the turbo-sea 174op would be enough--giving you about 7-8 times tank volume in gph through the sump.

what is the gph of your skimmer?

geraldwhite · 12/30/2007, 11:48 AM

I don't have a skimmer yet, i'm still looking at my options, i'm not sure what to go with, but i want it to be internal becuase my sump is large and i dont have a ton of room under the stand.

Aquarist007 · 12/30/2007, 01:08 PM

when you are looking try to match up the gph of the skimmer with the flow rated through the sump. this insures that the water is fully skimmed before being returned to the tank.

geraldwhite · 12/30/2007, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by capn_hylinur
when you are looking try to match up the gph of the skimmer with the flow rated through the sump. this insures that the water is fully skimmed before being returned to the tank.

so if i have 2400gph going through the sump, I want a skimmer rated for 2400gph?

So you dont think i should use the other pump? I have two holes in the overflow box for returns, should i just T the 1740 into the two retruns? use both (one for each pump) what do you think?

Aquarist007 · 12/30/2007, 01:38 PM

the 1740p will be enough--you can manage the flow through the sump by directing more or less through the refugium.

Can you cut back the flow and power used on this pump?

geraldwhite · 12/30/2007, 01:48 PM

Yeah I cant adjust the flow on the pump it self, but the 1740, only gets 1744gph so thats like 5.8x with out any head.

2frosty4u · 01/01/2008, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by geraldwhite
so if i have 2400gph going through the sump, I want a skimmer rated for 2400gph?

So you dont think i should use the other pump? I have two holes in the overflow box for returns, should i just T the 1740 into the two retruns? use both (one for each pump) what do you think?

A skimmer thats actually rated for 2400 gph Would be as big as a compact car....lol. I have a setup with a display tank, refugium and a sump that totals 175 gallons total volume. My skimmer is a euroreef monster and is only rated for 1 to 1.5x total tank volume per hour. With that said, I also have one heck of a pressure rated return pump because Like Capn H my sump and fuge are in the basement and I hate the look of powerheads in my tank. I use the bigger pump to increase flow in my display tank along with a closed loop setup. the skimmer is a stand alone external unit that is fed by a tee with a valve from the return pump. The more pumps you have running the greater the heat the water will absorb from the motors and believe it or not, water flowing through pipes picks up some heat through friction. So In my opinion I would try to use as few pumps as possible with the shortest possible plumbing runs to achieve what you want to do.

Aquarist007 · 01/01/2008, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 2frosty4u
A skimmer thats actually rated for 2400 gph Would be as big as a compact car....lol. I have a setup with a display tank, refugium and a sump that totals 175 gallons total volume. My skimmer is a euroreef monster and is only rated for 1 to 1.5x total tank volume per hour. With that said, I also have one heck of a pressure rated return pump because Like Capn H my sump and fuge are in the basement and I hate the look of powerheads in my tank. I use the bigger pump to increase flow in my display tank along with a closed loop setup. the skimmer is a stand alone external unit that is fed by a tee with a valve from the return pump. The more pumps you have running the greater the heat the water will absorb from the motors and believe it or not, water flowing through pipes picks up some heat through friction. So In my opinion I would try to use as few pumps as possible with the shortest possible plumbing runs to achieve what you want to do.

great the "flow master" has joined in. Cyber greetings Harold.

geraldwhite · 01/03/2008, 12:52 PM

Sorry For the late reply, holiday and all..

Thanks for the responce, I think this things is coming together, heres what I have decided.

I have two pumps as you know, I plan on using one for the main pump and one for a backup if it fails.

As the image shows I have T'd the two off with a ball valve on each, the backup pump is closed, while the main is open, if the pump ever fails I can close the main pump and open the backup to run untill i can get a new pump, also I could run the backup while cleaning the main pump etc.

The main line splits again (not shown) and goes into two 1" bulkheads which are fed to loc-line for the return.

Now for the chiller the image below is shown from the back of the sump,chiller,refuge.

Thoughts, suggestions?

2frosty4u · 01/03/2008, 06:40 PM

I would put the chiller in line with your return pump. The way you have it drawn it's a closed loop for your sump. the chiller only turns on the cooling when the temperature sensor calls for it, otherwise the water simply flows through it. You might as well reduce one pump and let the main pump feed it on it's way back to your display tank.

geraldwhite · 01/03/2008, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 2frosty4u
I would put the chiller in line with your return pump. The way you have it drawn it's a closed loop for your sump. the chiller only turns on the cooling when the temperature sensor calls for it, otherwise the water simply flows through it. You might as well reduce one pump and let the main pump feed it on it's way back to your display tank.

Well it becomes very complicated becuase my chiller is on the oposite side of the stand from the return pump... this is not 1 or 2 feet, we are talking about 6-7 feet away.

geraldwhite · 01/08/2008, 12:48 PM

Ok well thanks for the advice everyone, i'm going to go forward with what I have here, i am going to start this in 2 days, i'll post pictures wen its done. thanks again!

Aquarist007 · 01/08/2008, 02:47 PM

great look forward to seeing the pics

geraldwhite · 02/04/2008, 02:46 PM

Ahhh!

Ok sorry I havent been on here in a bit, i will post the images tonight.

K' Family Reef · 02/04/2008, 02:59 PM

here are some more ideas to think about

should skim water before going to fuge
and ideally all water would get the chance to go thru this fuge section

use your fuge tank as skimmer stage
for all the water to flow thru... use your filter socks here...

then convert the rest of your sump into a fuge
will only need a few baffles then before the return... and if use enough chaeto - then (shouldnt) have to worry about microbubbles....

this way all the water gets a chance to go thru the fuge
and the 'skimmer' stage seems to be atleast from your diagram - easy to take offline and clean out any detritus (whether you use a filter sock or not)

fwiw - ideas to think about perhaps or not!

12/29/2007, 05:18 PM	#26
geraldwhite Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: So Cal Posts: 156	Humm they dont have my pump on the head loss calc... anyway Im running two pumps as you know.. Turbo-Sea 790P 3/4" inlet/ 3/4" outlet 793 gph at 0 ft., 20.7 ft Max Head Turbo-Sea 1740P 1" inlet/1" outlet 1744 gph at 0 ft., 39.4 ft Max Head __________________ Do you like to do it yourself? Current Tank Info: 300G Reef, 29G Reef

12/29/2007, 05:18 PM	#27
geraldwhite Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: So Cal Posts: 156	Double post.... __________________ Do you like to do it yourself? Current Tank Info: 300G Reef, 29G Reef Last edited by geraldwhite; 12/29/2007 at 05:30 PM.

12/30/2007, 01:08 PM	#30
Aquarist007 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Hamilton, Canada Posts: 28,240 Blog Entries: 1	when you are looking try to match up the gph of the skimmer with the flow rated through the sump. this insures that the water is fully skimmed before being returned to the tank. __________________ I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock

12/30/2007, 01:38 PM	#32
Aquarist007 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Hamilton, Canada Posts: 28,240 Blog Entries: 1	the 1740p will be enough--you can manage the flow through the sump by directing more or less through the refugium. Can you cut back the flow and power used on this pump? __________________ I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock

01/03/2008, 06:40 PM	#37
2frosty4u Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada Posts: 745	I would put the chiller in line with your return pump. The way you have it drawn it's a closed loop for your sump. the chiller only turns on the cooling when the temperature sensor calls for it, otherwise the water simply flows through it. You might as well reduce one pump and let the main pump feed it on it's way back to your display tank. __________________ A small fish in a big aquarium

12/30/2007, 11:48 AM	#29
geraldwhite Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: So Cal Posts: 156	I don't have a skimmer yet, i'm still looking at my options, i'm not sure what to go with, but i want it to be internal becuase my sump is large and i dont have a ton of room under the stand.

12/30/2007, 01:48 PM	#33
geraldwhite Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: So Cal Posts: 156	Yeah I cant adjust the flow on the pump it self, but the 1740, only gets 1744gph so thats like 5.8x with out any head.

01/03/2008, 12:52 PM	#36
geraldwhite Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: So Cal Posts: 156	Sorry For the late reply, holiday and all.. Thanks for the responce, I think this things is coming together, heres what I have decided. I have two pumps as you know, I plan on using one for the main pump and one for a backup if it fails. As the image shows I have T'd the two off with a ball valve on each, the backup pump is closed, while the main is open, if the pump ever fails I can close the main pump and open the backup to run untill i can get a new pump, also I could run the backup while cleaning the main pump etc. The main line splits again (not shown) and goes into two 1" bulkheads which are fed to loc-line for the return. Now for the chiller the image below is shown from the back of the sump,chiller,refuge. Thoughts, suggestions?

01/08/2008, 12:48 PM	#39
geraldwhite Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: So Cal Posts: 156	Ok well thanks for the advice everyone, i'm going to go forward with what I have here, i am going to start this in 2 days, i'll post pictures wen its done. thanks again!

01/08/2008, 02:47 PM	#40
Aquarist007 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Hamilton, Canada Posts: 28,240 Blog Entries: 1	great look forward to seeing the pics __________________ I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock

02/04/2008, 02:46 PM	#41
geraldwhite Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: So Cal Posts: 156	Ahhh! Ok sorry I havent been on here in a bit, i will post the images tonight.

02/04/2008, 02:59 PM	#42
K' Family Reef Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,966	here are some more ideas to think about should skim water before going to fuge and ideally all water would get the chance to go thru this fuge section use your fuge tank as skimmer stage for all the water to flow thru... use your filter socks here... then convert the rest of your sump into a fuge will only need a few baffles then before the return... and if use enough chaeto - then (shouldnt) have to worry about microbubbles.... this way all the water gets a chance to go thru the fuge and the 'skimmer' stage seems to be atleast from your diagram - easy to take offline and clean out any detritus (whether you use a filter sock or not) fwiw - ideas to think about perhaps or not!