QT tank essentials?

4everwet · 03/03/2008, 08:34 PM

How large of tank is needed?
Uv or no?
What salinity?

Basically I'm wanting to properly setup a QT tank. Any advice greatly appreciated!

Packersfan21 · 03/03/2008, 08:52 PM

10 to 30 gallon, bare bottom, PVC piping for hiding spots, salinity 1.014.

4everwet · 03/04/2008, 07:54 AM

Filtration? The typical Sump,skimmer,return pump I assume? Should the temp be kept a tad higher like around 80 or 81 to speed up the fish metabolism? Would uv be a plus?

sw1tched · 03/04/2008, 09:32 AM

I keep my 20g sump around 81 with a shallow sand bottom. small sump. no skimmer since there is rarely a bioload on it. salinity at 1.014. I ran a UV on it for a while, but have since taken it off. Around 400 gph turnover through the sump. Now that my 125 is complete & Im finishing the room its in, I will probably break it down & hope I dont need it in the next few weeks. I like to keep a QT running at all times in case something happens

-Joe

AquaKnight · 03/04/2008, 09:37 AM

For QT size, generally 3 to 5 inches of tank length per inch of fish. More for bigger, more active fish, 9" inches of tank for large angels, large wrasses and tangs. 55 gallon tanks make great QT's for larger fish.

No, filtration should be as simple as possible, any treatment will make the usual filtration ineffective. Either a sponge filter or bio-wheel. The key to keeping the QT's parameters in check will be water changes, do them frequently and often, 50% per week at the minimum (I would suggest smaller changes more often during the week though). Keep the temps at regular tank temps, which would be 80Â° anyways. Don't run a UV, if the fish has something, you want to see it. Make sure the tank has good strong flow and plenty of aeration.

As far as treatments, there's two schools of thought, QT the fish normally for 4-6 weeks and monitor for diseases. Or treat the fish right away (well after the fish is introduced). I do both, monitor fish that are typically 'clean/disease' free, but for fish like Harlequin Tusks, I am going to treat regardless.

tkeracer619 · 03/04/2008, 09:37 AM

What does salinity at 1.014 do? That isnt hypo salinity and won't do anything to ick. 1.009 is the proper number for hypo but that requires reading on its own, not just some magical number that a QT is supposed to have. FWIW I leave my qt at 1.020 because that is what most fish stores and shippers have their holding tanks set to. Less stress on an already stressed fish.

UV is nice to kill anything floating around in the water but hardly neccesary.

discocarp · 03/04/2008, 11:25 AM

My primary setup is:

20g long w/ glass top (stop the jumpers!)
Heater
Current USA Subcurrent filter (new addition, I like it a lot)

I don't bother with UV. If there's a problem I treat it the proper way.

This is good for most fish except some bigger ones (I also have a 58g w/ canister filter for them).

WinnipegDragon · 03/04/2008, 01:23 PM

I haven't assembled it all yet, but my QT will be simple but versatile:

29g or 55g tank, CF lights to keep QT corals somewhat happy, Rena XP2 canister (better than a HOB for running carbon and the like), no sand, PVC piping, standard heater. All done.

4everwet · 03/04/2008, 06:05 PM

Thanks fellas for the info!

EllieSuz · 03/04/2008, 06:54 PM

There's a difference between a hospital tank and a quarantine tank. I believe if you're quarantining a new fish for moving it to your display after observation, the chemistry should be as near the display as possible, including temperature & salinity. Correct me if I'm wrong, guys.

discocarp · 03/04/2008, 08:18 PM

Yes but there is no reason they can't be the same tank. You can just use the water change water from your main tank for the qtank (other than for hypo).

03/03/2008, 08:34 PM	#1
4everwet Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: oklahoma Posts: 165	QT tank essentials? How large of tank is needed? Uv or no? What salinity? Basically I'm wanting to properly setup a QT tank. Any advice greatly appreciated!

03/03/2008, 08:52 PM	#2
Packersfan21 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Wabash, IN Posts: 920	10 to 30 gallon, bare bottom, PVC piping for hiding spots, salinity 1.014. __________________ 90 gallon reef: 1 black ocellaris clown, 1 kole tang, 1 hippo tang, 1 mimic tang,1 leopard wrasse, 1 chromis, 75 gallon FOWLR: 1 blue-spotted puffer, 1 flame angel, 1 snowflake eel Current Tank Info: 90 gallon reef and 75 gallon FOWLR

03/04/2008, 09:32 AM	#4
sw1tched Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Omaha NE Posts: 130	I keep my 20g sump around 81 with a shallow sand bottom. small sump. no skimmer since there is rarely a bioload on it. salinity at 1.014. I ran a UV on it for a while, but have since taken it off. Around 400 gph turnover through the sump. Now that my 125 is complete & Im finishing the room its in, I will probably break it down & hope I dont need it in the next few weeks. I like to keep a QT running at all times in case something happens -Joe __________________ 210g mixed reef display, 40g long sump, Euro-reef G4+ skimmer, Neptune Apex controller, 3 AI SOl LED fixtures. 65g FOWLR display, 40g breeder sump, T5 coralife fixture, ASM G3 skimmer. Current Tank Info: 210 gallon mixed reef, 65 gallon FOWLR

03/04/2008, 09:37 AM	#6
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	What does salinity at 1.014 do? That isnt hypo salinity and won't do anything to ick. 1.009 is the proper number for hypo but that requires reading on its own, not just some magical number that a QT is supposed to have. FWIW I leave my qt at 1.020 because that is what most fish stores and shippers have their holding tanks set to. Less stress on an already stressed fish. UV is nice to kill anything floating around in the water but hardly neccesary. __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

03/04/2008, 01:23 PM	#8
WinnipegDragon Canuckian Join Date: May 2007 Location: Winnipeg, MB Posts: 1,276	I haven't assembled it all yet, but my QT will be simple but versatile: 29g or 55g tank, CF lights to keep QT corals somewhat happy, Rena XP2 canister (better than a HOB for running carbon and the like), no sand, PVC piping, standard heater. All done. __________________ Working on a neeew tank! http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25596043

03/04/2008, 07:54 AM	#3
4everwet Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: oklahoma Posts: 165	Filtration? The typical Sump,skimmer,return pump I assume? Should the temp be kept a tad higher like around 80 or 81 to speed up the fish metabolism? Would uv be a plus?

03/04/2008, 09:37 AM	#5
AquaKnight Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Emerald Coast Posts: 2,030	For QT size, generally 3 to 5 inches of tank length per inch of fish. More for bigger, more active fish, 9" inches of tank for large angels, large wrasses and tangs. 55 gallon tanks make great QT's for larger fish. No, filtration should be as simple as possible, any treatment will make the usual filtration ineffective. Either a sponge filter or bio-wheel. The key to keeping the QT's parameters in check will be water changes, do them frequently and often, 50% per week at the minimum (I would suggest smaller changes more often during the week though). Keep the temps at regular tank temps, which would be 80Â° anyways. Don't run a UV, if the fish has something, you want to see it. Make sure the tank has good strong flow and plenty of aeration. As far as treatments, there's two schools of thought, QT the fish normally for 4-6 weeks and monitor for diseases. Or treat the fish right away (well after the fish is introduced). I do both, monitor fish that are typically 'clean/disease' free, but for fish like Harlequin Tusks, I am going to treat regardless.

03/04/2008, 11:25 AM	#7
discocarp Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Winter Park, FL Posts: 2,707	My primary setup is: 20g long w/ glass top (stop the jumpers!) Heater Current USA Subcurrent filter (new addition, I like it a lot) I don't bother with UV. If there's a problem I treat it the proper way. This is good for most fish except some bigger ones (I also have a 58g w/ canister filter for them).

03/04/2008, 06:05 PM	#9
4everwet Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: oklahoma Posts: 165	Thanks fellas for the info!

03/04/2008, 06:54 PM	#10
EllieSuz Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Rochester, NY Posts: 3,858	There's a difference between a hospital tank and a quarantine tank. I believe if you're quarantining a new fish for moving it to your display after observation, the chemistry should be as near the display as possible, including temperature & salinity. Correct me if I'm wrong, guys. __________________ "You can't learn this hobby one question at a time." (Mr. Tuskfish) Eileen Current Tank Info: I'm out of the hobby, but used to have a60 gal. reef, refugium in sump, Internal Mag 9 return, SC 302 skimmer, two Maxi-Jet 1200's modded, four bulb T5 Lighting, Reefkeeper Lite Controller with three PC4's, Little Fishes GFO reactor.

03/04/2008, 08:18 PM	#11
discocarp Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Winter Park, FL Posts: 2,707	Yes but there is no reason they can't be the same tank. You can just use the water change water from your main tank for the qtank (other than for hypo).