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Unread 03/09/2008, 12:49 AM   #1
The0wn4g3
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What makes Icecap 660 so good?

After purchasing a 2x 39W Nova Extreme retrofit I was doing some reading online and came across an online aquatics equipment vendor that stated 39W T5 lights will be 60W with an Icecap 660 ballast. So, I've got some questions.

First of all, is this true? A 54% increase in wattage (and I assume light output as well) is quite substantial.

Are there any other ballasts capable of producing similar increases in light output?

Why is the Icecap 660 ballast so much more powerful than the ballast that come standard with T5 retrofits?

Thanks!


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Current Tank Info: 40 gallon Rimless- 39Wx4 T5HO on Ice-Cap 660, 29gallon sump, DAS EX-2, Deltec Phosphate Reactor, Koralia 3, 50lbs LR
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Unread 03/09/2008, 09:58 AM   #2
reefergeorge
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I don't know about the 39, but a icecap will overdrive a 54 watt to around 85 watts. The ballast is designed for vho so it does strange things to t5s.


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$35-50 for a <1" frag of some stupid named thing that came from a colony you bought for $40-60 wholesale and chopped into 20-40 pieces? No thanks. "JasonH"

Current Tank Info: 125 aggressive reef, DIY led lighting, swc cone skimmer, 33 gallon sump, posiden Ps3 return.
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Unread 03/09/2008, 04:19 PM   #3
Paulairduck
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I run my ice cap 660 with 4 54 watt t-5 and I only run the bulbs for six months, I get excellent growth on my frag tank!!!


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Unread 03/09/2008, 05:59 PM   #4
EvoX
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yes its true because it overdrives the bulbs
the reason other ballasts dont do that is because the ballasts that come with t5 setups are meant to only push out a certain amount of wattage


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Unread 03/10/2008, 07:46 AM   #5
The0wn4g3
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Is it not possible to overdrive T5's with other ballasts? Such as a Fulham Workhorse ballast? They're much cheaper and still run up to 220W.
A 220W ballast running 2x 39W T5 HO bulbs should overdrive them, correct?

Thanks for the help guys,


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Current Tank Info: 40 gallon Rimless- 39Wx4 T5HO on Ice-Cap 660, 29gallon sump, DAS EX-2, Deltec Phosphate Reactor, Koralia 3, 50lbs LR
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Unread 03/21/2008, 07:10 PM   #6
The0wn4g3
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Anyone know?

I've found a few places that sell electronic ballasts that will run up to 8x 96w T12 bulbs for much cheaper than an IceCap 660.
I've looked online and can't find any specific details about the icecap ballast other than they will run up to 440W, so it's tough trying to compare it to other ballasts.

Has anyone tried using equally powerful "off-brand" ballasts to see how they match up, or has everyone just hopped on the bandwagon by now?


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Current Tank Info: 40 gallon Rimless- 39Wx4 T5HO on Ice-Cap 660, 29gallon sump, DAS EX-2, Deltec Phosphate Reactor, Koralia 3, 50lbs LR
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Unread 03/21/2008, 07:12 PM   #7
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Current Tank Info: 40 gallon Rimless- 39Wx4 T5HO on Ice-Cap 660, 29gallon sump, DAS EX-2, Deltec Phosphate Reactor, Koralia 3, 50lbs LR
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Unread 03/21/2008, 07:34 PM   #8
luke33
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I think wired a certain way the workhorse will but I wouldn't suggest trying it. As for why the IC's are better. Customer service, reliability, cool running, they last forever and finally versatility. They will run dang near anything.


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Unread 03/21/2008, 07:55 PM   #9
fat-tony
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the workhorse will overdrive the bulbs by blasting them with power. 2 channels are connected to each end of the bulb.


the IC 660 will overdrive the bulbs simply by attaching them normally. it does so by sending electricity through the bulb faster if i remember right


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Unread 03/21/2008, 08:26 PM   #10
DarG
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If i remember correctly, the icecap soft starts T5's which is a feature that helps prolong their life. But running a 54 watt T5 at 80 watts or a 39 watt at 60 watts does shorten the life of the bulbs. They run hotter and the better they are cooled the longer they last but life is still shorter. The customer service and tech/repair departments at Icecap are hard to beat as well.

I think the Workhorse has been criticized for not having the soft start feature and therefore not being the best for T5 use. I could very well be wrong because every time I find out the reason why exactly, I have forgitten it by the time a question like this gets asked. But, there is a difference between just running a higher wattage ballast on a lower wattage bulb and having it work right. The Icecap is actually designed to run standard output, high output and very high output lamps. You can run standard 40 watt T12 with the Icecap. I dont think you can just take any higher wattage workhorse and do the same with lower wattage bulbs. Im not sure if it will work at all, or if the bulb will just suffer a fast demise or if it will for a while and be worth doing.

I havent seen the Workhorse ballast sold specifically to overdrive T5. Ive only seen the appropriate wattage Workhorse ballasts sold as T5 ballasts. If you are just considering getting an over wattage Workhorse, I wouldnt do so without getting some actual technical information first. I dont have it but I bet PaulErik here on the forum would or possibly Grim Reefer or Hahnmeister.


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Unread 03/21/2008, 10:03 PM   #11
Cajun Reefer
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Lightbulb

IceCap Sponsor Thread

IceCap has a sponsored forum on Reef Central that has numerous threads that may help you out! Plus they are very quick to help with any questions! Their customer service and warranty program are impeccable! HTH!


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Equipment: 90G Perfecto, 100 lbs LR, 75 lbs LS, 2-Vortech MP40w's, Octopus HOT Skimmer, 2- Phosban Reactors (PhosGuard & Activated Carbon), IceCap 660 w/ 4- T5HO & SLR Reflectors. Working on setting up a Glass-holes.com 700 gph overflow, 29G sump w/ Mag 7 return pump, Tunze DOC 9010 skimmer. 2- IceCap 250W electronic ballasts w/ PFO mini HQI pendants. Upcoming Upgrade: 180G Project, Neptune Systems Apex w/ WPX, 4-MP40w's, Bubble Magus NAC 9 Skimmer, & Undecided LED lighting.
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Unread 03/22/2008, 12:08 AM   #12
The0wn4g3
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Yes! Now that's more of the info I want to find out! Thanks for the IC forum link!

On the point of the soft-start; the way I see it is the T-5 lamps are only about $10 for me (work at a LFS), so if I have to replace a bulb every 6 months that would still save me money in the long run over replacing my metal halide bulbs.

About the Fulham ballasts; I ran my PC's before i upgraded to T5's for a year on a fulham ballast with exact performance as any other PC ballast I've seen. This would lead me to assume T5's would be the same.

The whole point of converting my setup to T5's was to save money without losing any light output. I'm having trouble convincing myself a ~$150 IC ballast is going to be that much better than a ~$40 Fulham ballast.

Fulham WH7 Specs:
Maximum Power........... 220 Watts
Maximum Current......... 1.82
# 4 X 39W T5HO Linear
# 3 or 4 X 54W T5HO Linear
# 2 X 80W T5HO Linear


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Current Tank Info: 40 gallon Rimless- 39Wx4 T5HO on Ice-Cap 660, 29gallon sump, DAS EX-2, Deltec Phosphate Reactor, Koralia 3, 50lbs LR
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Unread 03/22/2008, 12:11 AM   #13
The0wn4g3
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Interesting, I just found this on Fulham's website:

Instant Start Ballasts vs Program Start Ballasts

There are two types of ballasts available to drive T5 HO lamps: Program Start and Instant Start. Instant Start ballasts ignite lamps by providing a significant voltage across the lamp during starting. This can reduce lamp life especially in frequent starting applications. Program start ballasts incorporate a precise starting sequence that brings the lamp up to full brightness by preheating the lamp cathode and then applying voltage across the lamp. Program Start ballasts can actually extend the lamp life. Our fixtures use Program Start ballasts. These ballasts are more expensive than Instant Start ballasts. Philips, GE and Osram Sylvania warranty their lamps with Program Start ballasts. BUT…..NONE OF THE LAMP COMPANIES WILL WARRANTY THEIR LAMPS WITH AN INSTANT START SYSTEM.

We are seeing some incredibly stupid numbers on T5 product being thrown around by small, local T5 manufacturers. These companies are offering basic T5 product without lamps. They are betting on the fact that most people are not aware of the voided T5 lamp warranty when used with Instant Start systems. We see no reason to meet these numbers when our competitors are offering inferior product. Customers need to make sure they understand the difference between T5 HO systems.

Our Fluorescent High Bay Fixtures use Advance, GE or Sylvania brand Programmed Start Ballasts.

Sounds like a version of soft-start doesn't it?


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Current Tank Info: 40 gallon Rimless- 39Wx4 T5HO on Ice-Cap 660, 29gallon sump, DAS EX-2, Deltec Phosphate Reactor, Koralia 3, 50lbs LR
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Unread 03/22/2008, 06:27 AM   #14
Young Frankenstein
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A ballast can safely overdrive a light bulb using a higher frequency, other methods can damage the light bulbs. I would not use the work horse ballast for anything in residential applications. I called the company to ask them why I was having so much interference to my electronics from there ballasts, and their technical departments answer "they are not made for residential applications, and theres no way to stop the interference".


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Unread 03/22/2008, 07:58 AM   #15
DarG
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Quote:
Originally posted by The0wn4g3
Yes! Now that's more of the info I want to find out! Thanks for the IC forum link!

On the point of the soft-start; the way I see it is the T-5 lamps are only about $10 for me (work at a LFS), so if I have to replace a bulb every 6 months that would still save me money in the long run over replacing my metal halide bulbs.

About the Fulham ballasts; I ran my PC's before i upgraded to T5's for a year on a fulham ballast with exact performance as any other PC ballast I've seen. This would lead me to assume T5's would be the same.

The whole point of converting my setup to T5's was to save money without losing any light output. I'm having trouble convincing myself a ~$150 IC ballast is going to be that much better than a ~$40 Fulham ballast.

Fulham WH7 Specs:
Maximum Power........... 220 Watts
Maximum Current......... 1.82
# 4 X 39W T5HO Linear
# 3 or 4 X 54W T5HO Linear
# 2 X 80W T5HO Linear
Im not an expert on T5 like I stated. But do take any info given to you directly by the manufacturer with a grain of salt. Im not necessarily talking about both Fulham or IC in this case. But Their goal and every mahufacturers goal ultimatley is to sell you a product. There is plenty of information on one particular subject, for example, in one of the manufacturer/sponsors forums regarding halide ballasts. I wont say who or where but it's far more sales/marketing hype and far less fact. Quite frankly it ****es me off but thats the way it is ... An informed consumer is a smart consumer and the only way to be properly informed is by talking to experts outside of the manufacturers who have NO vested interest in selling you a product. Contac those members who I mentioned in my previous post.


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