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Unread 03/31/2008, 06:55 PM   #1
Myka
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75g cube lighting - what would you do?

If you could light a 75g cube 28x28x22" any way you wanted, what would you use?

My tank will be around 50/50 LPS/SPS with a clam or two or three or six. No softies, no zoos or anything like that.

I've been leaning towards a 400w PFO HQI ballast running a Giesemann 14,500K in a Lumenarc reflector with 2x24w Tek T5 Giesemann Pure Actinics. I'm not sure if this will give me too much PAR for the LPS. Is there such thing?

If I go for a 250w version, I would probably use the Ushio 10K bulb. As you can tell I'm a sucker for PAR ratings. So then I think I'd have to supplement with 4x24w Tek T5 with either 4 Giesemann True Actinics, or 2 Acts and 2 Blue Plus.

I can't decide!!! Comments? Any better ideas?


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Current Tank Info: 69 SPS (73 gal net) established July 1/15. (HBD Canada!) ATB 840, ATI 6-bulb dimmable. Fauna Marin balling lite method.

Last edited by Myka; 03/31/2008 at 07:27 PM.
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Unread 04/01/2008, 08:23 AM   #2
Myka
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Anyone?


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Current Tank Info: 69 SPS (73 gal net) established July 1/15. (HBD Canada!) ATB 840, ATI 6-bulb dimmable. Fauna Marin balling lite method.
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Unread 04/03/2008, 09:34 PM   #3
Myka
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Why are you guys holding out on me?


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Current Tank Info: 69 SPS (73 gal net) established July 1/15. (HBD Canada!) ATB 840, ATI 6-bulb dimmable. Fauna Marin balling lite method.
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Unread 04/03/2008, 10:54 PM   #4
ReefRockerLive
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I would go for the 250w on LA3 reflectors. IMO, the 400w MH on LA3 reflectors may concentrate too much light onto the corals and LPS coral may not like that. As for supplemental lighting, I would get either 2x ATI Blue Plus or 2x AquaScience Blue, both T5 bulbs give a nice blue look and actually have PAR unlike true actinic bulbs.


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Unread 04/04/2008, 08:10 AM   #5
Flatlander
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Hi Myka,
Guess it depends on how high the lighting is. If I had it built into a wall, then I would run fairly high, so enough spread would cover the 28in. Then a 400 would be in order and also a 400 would be best if running a higher colour temp. to give you the par you're looking for.

However, if running a hood and a higher par DE bulb and some thing like the Lumenarc reflector for coverage, I dont see why a 250w would not be sufficient. Esp. with 4 T-5,s as supplemental lighting.


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Current Tank Info: 50g sumpless sps tank..Evergrow 2081 led..Apex control..Tunze 9012 skimmer..Tunze calcium reactor..Tunze kalk reactor..2 rw8,s..1 MP40..1 Hydor Korillia 1200gph..Tunze ATO..all propagated sps frags
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Unread 04/04/2008, 09:40 AM   #6
McLaughlin4
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I will just tell you what I did , I have a 60 cube 24x24x24 , my canopy is about 16" so my lights are about 14" from the water . I put 2 x 250w DE mh 20k side by side in the middle. Since the 20k's are so blue I put got a 2x24' t5 retro kit and put one bulb in front of the MH's and one bulb in the back , I only got white atinic so as not to have more blue then what is giving off by the Mh's . I have fouund this to be the perfect amount of lighting for MY setup. I do have an open backed canopy which helps because if it were closed I think the etank would have large heat fluctuation. But I use a chiller in the summer anyway. If I was to do it over I would use a single end 400w MH retro kit probably 14k w/ 4x24" T5's 2 Blue atinic bulb 2 white atinic bulbs and run the T5's 2 hours before the MH and 2 hours after. Hope this helps feels free to Pm me with any questions. And welcome to the cube club


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Unread 04/04/2008, 11:56 AM   #7
OnlyCrimson
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400w radium in an la3, with 2 ati aquablues or blue pluses. At least thats how i might do it. The 250w idea with the 10k also sounds good. Thats plent of light either way.


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Unread 04/04/2008, 06:47 PM   #8
Toshas79
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I have 250w MH with 4 T5HO on a side. Would be better 400w but coast for elect


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Unread 04/04/2008, 07:42 PM   #9
Myka
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Thanks for the input everyone! So I guess essentially, you guys are saying both ideas would work great, but skip the True Actinics and use Blue Plus bulbs instead? Why would you guys want to do that? Just because of PAR? I would think I'd be getting enough PAR from the MH to not worry much about the PAR coming off the T5s...? The True Actinics make the corals fluoresce more.

According to Sanjay's website the PFO 400w HQI with Giesemann 14,500K puts off a PPFD of 209, and the PFO 250w HQI with XM 10K puts off a PPFD of 182. So, I'd only lose 10% of the PPFD, but much less watts. Supplement that with a couple of Blue Plus and a couple of True Actinics and I'm laughing. I think that's my answer.

As far as reflectors go, the Lumenarc would be the best choice to spread the light as evenly as possible over the 28x28 footprint right?

I am building my own canopy, so the light will be wherever I want it to be. The guys at Lumenarc suggested I position the bottom of the reflector 8" off the water.


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~ Mindy, SPS addict.

Current Tank Info: 69 SPS (73 gal net) established July 1/15. (HBD Canada!) ATB 840, ATI 6-bulb dimmable. Fauna Marin balling lite method.
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Unread 04/04/2008, 09:10 PM   #10
OnlyCrimson
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I was thinking the aquablue just for the par. If you don't care then true actinics would be great. Sounds like you got it set.


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Unread 04/04/2008, 11:38 PM   #11
Myka
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^ Haha! Ya, I think I just had to write it out to figure it out!


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~ Mindy, SPS addict.

Current Tank Info: 69 SPS (73 gal net) established July 1/15. (HBD Canada!) ATB 840, ATI 6-bulb dimmable. Fauna Marin balling lite method.
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