Connection between Return pump and Sump

liquidlunch · 04/17/2008, 01:02 PM

I am upgrading my 30 gal sump to a 55 that I just drilled the other day. Because the tank is wider and my fishroom stand is only so wide, I will have to reconfigure the placement of my return pump. I plan to run a 90 elbo right off the sump bulkhead, then a union ballvalve(that is now being added and was not used w/ the 30gal sump) and then a 90 elbo off that. I understand head loss pressure due to pipe diameters, valves, elbos,etc AFTER the pump, but are there any issues with having a couple elbos BEFORE the pump?

Ismellikefish · 04/17/2008, 01:05 PM

I wouldn't think there would be any issues other than what you stated > head loss pressure. If you compensate for that then you should be just fine

TheMcs · 04/17/2008, 02:03 PM

It's not ideal, but should work fine.
When possible (enough room) I use the "long 90" elbows. They're designed for drainage, not pressure, but I've got a few on my Hammerhead that are doing fine. Instead of the hard corner of a 90 elbow, it's a curved 90, it impedes flow far less than the standard elbow.
Like I said, it's designed for drainage, so the pocket area for mounting it on PVC is about half of a pressure fitting. Be sure you make a clean straight cut on your PVC and use plenty of glue, and you should be fine.

raddogz · 04/17/2008, 02:03 PM

I would imagine you would get decreased inflow to the return pump.

TheMcs · 04/17/2008, 02:09 PM

What is the inlet size of the pump? Since you will be slowing the available water volume to the pump, if you can run larger pipe to the inlet, it would help.
For instance, the inlet of my Hammerhead is 1.5". I knew that i would have a downturned elbow in the sump to minimize the chance of cavitation. Because of that, everything from the in-sump elbow to the reducer on the inlet is 2", then the reducer brings it down to 1.5".

Something else, which is common sense but occasionally gets overlooked, make sure the valve side of your union is towards the sump. Wouldn't want you to have to replumb like some people I know.

liquidlunch · 04/17/2008, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by TheMcs
What is the inlet size of the pump? Since you will be slowing the available water volume to the pump, if you can run larger pipe to the inlet, it would help.
For instance, the inlet of my Hammerhead is 1.5". I knew that i would have a downturned elbow in the sump to minimize the chance of cavitation. Because of that, everything from the in-sump elbow to the reducer on the inlet is 2", then the reducer brings it down to 1.5".

Something else, which is common sense but occasionally gets overlooked, make sure the valve side of your union is towards the sump. Wouldn't want you to have to replumb like some people I know.

Here's a pic as it is right now(minus the phosban reactor). The pump is a Gen-X PCX-40 with a 3/4" inlet/outlet. I have 1" flex PVC between the sump/pump w/ a 1" to 3/4" reducer.
I could perhaps move the new sump more to the left so I have room to run a straight shot instead of (2) elbos.

TheMcs · 04/17/2008, 02:33 PM

Worse case scenario you could even screw a short piece of ply on top of the table to extend a shelf off the edge, just long enough to accomodate the pump.

04/17/2008, 01:02 PM	#1
liquidlunch Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Neptune, NJ Posts: 503	Connection between Return pump and Sump I am upgrading my 30 gal sump to a 55 that I just drilled the other day. Because the tank is wider and my fishroom stand is only so wide, I will have to reconfigure the placement of my return pump. I plan to run a 90 elbo right off the sump bulkhead, then a union ballvalve(that is now being added and was not used w/ the 30gal sump) and then a 90 elbo off that. I understand head loss pressure due to pipe diameters, valves, elbos,etc AFTER the pump, but are there any issues with having a couple elbos BEFORE the pump? Last edited by liquidlunch; 04/17/2008 at 01:10 PM.

04/17/2008, 02:03 PM	#3
TheMcs Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Posts: 2,272	It's not ideal, but should work fine. When possible (enough room) I use the "long 90" elbows. They're designed for drainage, not pressure, but I've got a few on my Hammerhead that are doing fine. Instead of the hard corner of a 90 elbow, it's a curved 90, it impedes flow far less than the standard elbow. Like I said, it's designed for drainage, so the pocket area for mounting it on PVC is about half of a pressure fitting. Be sure you make a clean straight cut on your PVC and use plenty of glue, and you should be fine. __________________ Evaporation and top off don't count as water changes... Current Tank Info: 185g Deep Sea display, 2x 40g frag tanks, 90g fuge, 60g sump (400+ gal system)

04/17/2008, 02:03 PM	#4
raddogz Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Bay Area Posts: 3,167	I would imagine you would get decreased inflow to the return pump. __________________ Eileen If at first you don't succeed, failure may be your style. - Quentin Crisp Current Tank Info: 180g Reef

04/17/2008, 02:09 PM	#5
TheMcs Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Posts: 2,272	What is the inlet size of the pump? Since you will be slowing the available water volume to the pump, if you can run larger pipe to the inlet, it would help. For instance, the inlet of my Hammerhead is 1.5". I knew that i would have a downturned elbow in the sump to minimize the chance of cavitation. Because of that, everything from the in-sump elbow to the reducer on the inlet is 2", then the reducer brings it down to 1.5". Something else, which is common sense but occasionally gets overlooked, make sure the valve side of your union is towards the sump. Wouldn't want you to have to replumb like some people I know. __________________ Evaporation and top off don't count as water changes... Current Tank Info: 185g Deep Sea display, 2x 40g frag tanks, 90g fuge, 60g sump (400+ gal system)

04/17/2008, 02:33 PM	#7
TheMcs Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Posts: 2,272	Worse case scenario you could even screw a short piece of ply on top of the table to extend a shelf off the edge, just long enough to accomodate the pump. __________________ Evaporation and top off don't count as water changes... Current Tank Info: 185g Deep Sea display, 2x 40g frag tanks, 90g fuge, 60g sump (400+ gal system)

04/17/2008, 01:05 PM	#2
Ismellikefish Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 271	I wouldn't think there would be any issues other than what you stated > head loss pressure. If you compensate for that then you should be just fine