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Unread 04/30/2008, 09:49 PM   #1
viodea
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is my yellow tank sick?

There are dark spots and lines near the eyes of my yellow tank. Is he sick?
Sorry for the picture quality, there isn't much light for QT. I have to use high ISO.

Dark spot just above the eye


Dark spots like a cycle above the eye


Dotted line running from the eye to the mouth



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Unread 04/30/2008, 10:03 PM   #2
demonsp
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just looks a little stressed.


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Unread 04/30/2008, 10:05 PM   #3
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Re: is my yellow tank sick?

Quote:
Originally posted by viodea
There are dark spots and lines near the eyes of my yellow tank. Is he sick?
Sorry for the picture quality, there isn't much light for QT. I have to use high ISO.

Dark spot just above the eye


Dark spots like a cycle above the eye


Dotted line running from the eye to the mouth
the tang has had one two many late nights in a row

seriously, I think it is just pigmentation---just keep an eye(no pun intended) on it
Yellow tangs are very hardy and if anything prone to ich--and that is not ich or a fungus or a parasite


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Unread 04/30/2008, 10:09 PM   #4
frank2926
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Yes he does look stressed and or sick. Hard to tell from the pic if it is the start of Hlle or yellow tang ich. Feed him some greens, peas broccoli or Romain lettuce (not iceburg) . get some nori sheets or seaweed select from the lfs. soak all mentioned food in either Selcon or kent marine C . he should be fine. Yellow tangs are hardy !


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Unread 04/30/2008, 10:10 PM   #5
viodea
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I know it's a little stressed. My QT is only 10G. Seems like not enough room for it to swim around. It hides at the corner all the time. It's so temping to move it to DT.
I wonder if it's better off putting a tang straight to display to reduce stress.


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Unread 04/30/2008, 10:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by viodea
I know it's a little stressed. My QT is only 10G. Seems like not enough room for it to swim around. It hides at the corner all the time. It's so temping to move it to DT.
I wonder if it's better off putting a tang straight to display to reduce stress.
no---I wouldn't do that
but I might consider a bigger qt for a tang--esp if its going to be in there for 4 weeks or so


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Unread 04/30/2008, 10:15 PM   #7
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what would help if you had some rock you could put in there.
Rock you can throw away when done treating him. just a little for him to hide behind and pick at. Yellows do not do much swimming more picking at rocks .


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Unread 04/30/2008, 10:16 PM   #8
Aquarist007
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Quote:
Originally posted by frank2926
Yes he does look stressed and or sick. Hard to tell from the pic if it is the start of Hlle or yellow tang ich. Feed him some greens, peas broccoli or Romain lettuce (not iceburg) . get some nori sheets or seaweed select from the lfs. soak all mentioned food in either Selcon or kent marine C . he should be fine. Yellow tangs are hardy !
where do you see the ich, Frank?


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Unread 04/30/2008, 10:17 PM   #9
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I have a feeling that may turn into a bloody looking splotch. Hard to say for sure what it is but I've seen it happen with other Yellow Tangs and it's often on oddly bright yellow/orange specimens like yours. Sometimes that super bright coloration can be an indication of fish that were collected using drugs.

Whether or not improper collection played a part I believe it is a bacterial infection such as vibriosis. Your best bet is to feed him and feed him well. He's very skinny and his immune system is probably very weak right now. If you're not already get some nori in his tank, supplement that with spirulina flakes, another good quality flake perhaps soaked in vitamins, and a little mysis shrimp. Just be sure to keep an eye on water parameters in the QT since you'll be feeding a little heavier. There are thing you could try treating him with but I'd hold off and see how time and a good diet works.


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Unread 05/01/2008, 12:44 AM   #10
Peter Eichler
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Quote:
Originally posted by frank2926
Yes he does look stressed and or sick. Hard to tell from the pic if it is the start of Hlle or yellow tang ich. Feed him some greens, peas broccoli or Romain lettuce (not iceburg) . get some nori sheets or seaweed select from the lfs. soak all mentioned food in either Selcon or kent marine C . he should be fine. Yellow tangs are hardy !
Romain or any other lettuce just isn't a good choice, especially if it not quickly boiled or frozen to break down the cells. If you're going to go through all that trouble you might as well just give them something far healthier such as nori. Also, brocolli just makes a huge mess since they usually end up tearing it up and the little bits end up rotting. And again, the cell structure of brocolli could make it difficult to digest for a tang. Peas, well, there are some obvious issues with that one as well...

Lastly, I don't see anything that resembles parasitic tubellarians. While secondary bacterial infections can certainly be associated with them they usually stick out like a sore thumb on a Yellow Tang and Viodea probably would have noticed.



Last edited by Peter Eichler; 05/01/2008 at 12:54 AM.
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Unread 05/01/2008, 02:17 AM   #11
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looks like it is the start of a bacternial infection. or the red streaks.


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Unread 05/01/2008, 08:04 AM   #12
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Common for fish to be stressed when placed into a new envirornment - common for tangs to show minor signs of bacterial problems when stressed - not a big deal and hopefully the fish will settle down and recover on its own.

Is the fish eating?


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Unread 05/01/2008, 08:13 AM   #13
Aquarist007
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Quote:
Originally posted by Peter Eichler
I have a feeling that may turn into a bloody looking splotch. Hard to say for sure what it is but I've seen it happen with other Yellow Tangs and it's often on oddly bright yellow/orange specimens like yours. Sometimes that super bright coloration can be an indication of fish that were collected using drugs.

Whether or not improper collection played a part I believe it is a bacterial infection such as vibriosis. Your best bet is to feed him and feed him well. He's very skinny and his immune system is probably very weak right now. If you're not already get some nori in his tank, supplement that with spirulina flakes, another good quality flake perhaps soaked in vitamins, and a little mysis shrimp. Just be sure to keep an eye on water parameters in the QT since you'll be feeding a little heavier. There are thing you could try treating him with but I'd hold off and see how time and a good diet works.
boy I am glad you are back posting----I seen that before on my tangs and just thought it was a stress re action similar to my foxface that turns almost black when stressed.
I guess I was lucky with the tangs that it went away on its own


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Unread 05/01/2008, 08:46 AM   #14
viodea
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I'm feeding him 2x3" nori once a day. Is that good enough?
I tried to do hypo but my ph is a little low. Tried to use baking powder but the resulting water didn't change color when doing ph test. So, I discard all water to be safe. I'm adding back to the normal SG slowly now hoping my salt water mix is going to bring the ph back up a little.

I don't have much live rock. All my rocks are clean of algae now, thanks to my turbo. Do you think it's still a good idea to put some rock in there?


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Unread 05/01/2008, 08:52 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by capn_hylinur
boy I am glad you are back posting----I seen that before on my tangs and just thought it was a stress re action similar to my foxface that turns almost black when stressed.
I guess I was lucky with the tangs that it went away on its own
Typically a healthy diet and good water quality will take care of it.


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Unread 05/01/2008, 09:02 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by viodea
I'm feeding him 2x3" nori once a day. Is that good enough?
I tried to do hypo but my ph is a little low. Tried to use baking powder but the resulting water didn't change color when doing ph test. So, I discard all water to be safe. I'm adding back to the normal SG slowly now hoping my salt water mix is going to bring the ph back up a little.

I don't have much live rock. All my rocks are clean of algae now, thanks to my turbo. Do you think it's still a good idea to put some rock in there?
Is nori all that you're feeding him? If so that probably isn't enough. It's a good idea to vary the diet a little bit with the things I mentioned.

I hope you mean baking soda and not baking powder... Even if you mean baking soda you should not be using that to adjust PH, that's for adjusting your alkalinity/KH. If you don't have a test for alkalinity/KH you need to get one. By trying to adjust all these things you're probably making matters worse rather than better. Once you get your SG close to natural levels try to keep things somewhat stable. Better gas exchange and surface aggitation can be one way to help raise the PH naturally by removing excess CO2 from the water.

I personally would not put rock in there. It looks like he has a couple hiding places in the pvc to make him feel more secure and he's not going to get much nutrition from tossing a couple random rocks in there.


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Unread 05/01/2008, 09:35 AM   #17
frank2926
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The rocks were for stress. Hiding behind a rock I would think would be a little less stressful than pvc. plus it would give him something to pick at to keep him active.

Blanched veggies may also encourage the fish to eat more. Again lowering stress and stimulate appetite. Broccoli florets are very good for absorbing things like selcon or vita c and good at holding on to it.


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Unread 05/01/2008, 10:11 AM   #18
viodea
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I tried 2 other prepared food, formula 2 flakes and the other one for clown fish, and he wouldn't touch them at all.
I've read somewhere to use baking powder. So, I tried. Lucky I didn't do it at the end.

I have a power head and HOB filter does a pretty good job at surface agitation. I hope a normal SG level is going to keep him happier.

I notice it's kinda afraid of people. The hides when I stand next to the tank but swim around a little bit more when I'm away from it.


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Unread 05/01/2008, 10:18 AM   #19
kevin2000
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Some fish are skittish in a QT and you can simply wrap the QT with some newspaper .. gives them a more "cave like" secure feeling.

Live Brine Shrimp is a good way to stimulate fish into eating mode.


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Unread 05/01/2008, 10:53 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Peter Eichler
Is nori all that you're feeding him? If so that probably isn't enough. It's a good idea to vary the diet a little bit with the things I mentioned.

I hope you mean baking soda and not baking powder... Even if you mean baking soda you should not be using that to adjust PH, that's for adjusting your alkalinity/KH. If you don't have a test for alkalinity/KH you need to get one. By trying to adjust all these things you're probably making matters worse rather than better. Once you get your SG close to natural levels try to keep things somewhat stable. Better gas exchange and surface aggitation can be one way to help raise the PH naturally by removing excess CO2 from the water.

I personally would not put rock in there. It looks like he has a couple hiding places in the pvc to make him feel more secure and he's not going to get much nutrition from tossing a couple random rocks in there.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
My fox face used to look like it was hyper ventilating until one of the posters here reccomended I point my korilla up towards the surface.
I did that and he is no longer stressed out.


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Unread 05/01/2008, 11:01 AM   #21
viodea
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I pointed my power head up towards the surface in my QT too.


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Unread 05/01/2008, 11:46 AM   #22
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Try feeding him some frozen mysis, spirulina flakes, or frozen emerald entree. The emerald entree is good because it has algae, mysis and brine all mixed to gether. I would make sure there is always nori in the tank for the tang to graze on as well.


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