phosban reactor - why not?

[glxtrix]

So I've been tossing the idea of a phosban reactor. I've seen many people who use them....love them! And many who don't. For the people who don't like them, please tell me why. Whats the down sides here? I know I've read many things about them, but I'd like to hear some personal stories. I'd ultimately like to have this discussion either make or break my thought of adding one. Thanks.

Lee

[ckhorne]

I'm tagging along. I'm also interested in what the differences are in the popular phosphate removal products- Rowaphos, Phosban, or even bulk GFO. Does anyone use aluminum oxide products in their reef tank anymore? Do most people run a combination of a PO4 and carbon, or are they unrelated with regards to effectiveness?

[glxtrix]

Well I know running them in separate reactors is key. Besides, don't they have different flow rates to maximize effectiveness?

[The0wn4g3]

Originally posted by ckhorne
I'm tagging along. I'm also interested in what the differences are in the popular phosphate removal products- Rowaphos, Phosban, or even bulk GFO. Does anyone use aluminum oxide products in their reef tank anymore? Do most people run a combination of a PO4 and carbon, or are they unrelated with regards to effectiveness?

I've used SeaChem Phosguard for almost a year now. It's an aluminum based product. Never had any problems out of it. I've got everything from SPS to zoas to duncans in my tank. When I use my last batch in about a month, I'm going to switch to the Two-Part-solution GFO just because it's cheaper.
I run the Phosguard in a Deltec reactor and my carbon in a bag in my sump.

[spsphreak75gal]

Any feedback on Kent Marine phosphate sponge?

[The0wn4g3]

Originally posted by spsphreak75gal
Any feedback on Kent Marine phosphate sponge?

I've never used it, but I've read it's about as good as any other phosphate absorber.

[glxtrix]

Anyone else? I know there are a ton of people using these reactors. Or is everyones general consensus that they are a good thing?

[arjay96]

try this link:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1395342

[glxtrix]

Yeah I've read that, thanks. Guess I'll give it a shot and see what happens. Slow and steady.

[Reefmaniac1]

My question would be: Why do you NEED a phosban reactor? Do you have phosphates in the tank? If so, do you have them in your source water? If this is the case, you're going to blow more money on phosban (or other product) - treating the symptoms - than on treating the disease (your source water). If you don't have a RO/DI, spend the money on that.

If you have phosphates in the tank but not in the source water, look at what you're feeding, check your carbon (if you run any) and even check your rock: Lava-based rock can be full of phosphates.

[glxtrix]

I run a BB tank and feed pretty heavy. Have RO/DI...Not really sure if I have high phos or not, should prolly test one of these days. Was thinking of running it just to run it. Is that a stupid idea?

[Reefmaniac1]

Why waste the money?

Some foods (especially frozen foods) can be LOADED with phosphates, so watch that. Also, fish don't need to be fed daily. Back in the early 90's, I ran a BB reef with halides and VHOs and maybe fed the fish once a month - if that. Never lost a fish to starvation. I did have a low population of fish, but if you keep the density down, you'll find that a properly maintained reef tank can sustain the fish without a lot of interference from you.

Note: Just because your test kit shows 0 phosphates doesn't mean you DON'T have a phosphate problem. Hobbyist test kits only measure inorganic phosphates, not organic-based phosphates (aka orthophosphates). Test kits that measure these compounds cost upwards of $70 bucks last time I checked.

[The0wn4g3]

If you have high phosphate you will know it. I know I need to change my media anytime I see a small amount of algae growth on the rocks or I need to clean my glass more than every other day. If you test your water and have 0 NH3, NO3, and NO4 but still have algae growth, or slowed SPS growth, chances are you have high phosphates that are causing the problem. Otherwise, don't worry about it.
I use RO/DI water and I still have phosphates in my tank. It's just a naturally occurring salt, and will always be in the tank to some extent.
I used to use the D&D/Merck test kit, but I just use my algae now... it's a bit easier on the wallet =).

At the same token, a reactor will run about $40 with shipping, while the GFO runs (for me, atleast) about $10 per 3 months. In this hobby, it's really one of the few things that is very effective yet still relatively inexpensive.

[Paulairduck]

get a Hanna to test for phosphates!

[glxtrix]

So whats the main diff between the different medias? I hear people saying they are dumping money away on this stuff and some saying it costs next to nothing. I mean, I know I have phos in my tank, I have algae...nothing horrible by any means, but it is there.

[The0wn4g3]

There really isn't any difference in medias. Bulk Reef Supply is the cheapest I've found phosphate absorbent though.
There was an article around here somewhere showing the performance of Rowaphos vs Phosguard... but I can't find it.

[The0wn4g3]

Here it is:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...004/review.htm

"In summary, iron oxide based phosphate removers are effective at lowering phosphate levels in a reef tank and can reduce them to natural seawater levels. There appears to be little difference in effectiveness of the two leading brands, so one can use either depending on price and availability."

[frenchie]

i use kent phosphate reactor but mainly for carbon, but i carbon for 2 to 3 weeks than move reactor to my other tank and run carbon in it for a couple of weeks. I use to use phosguard but now i have sumps and in sump skimmers under both my tanks and both have fuge area with chaeto so no need for phosphate media anymore.