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Unread 07/09/2008, 08:25 PM   #26
abulgin
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Quote:
Originally posted by SharkBait_Mtl


The high nitrates and the presence of ammonia are scaring me.
Is it normal that my nitrates spiked again doing the light out?? could something have died?
No, and yes. Something has died--either your bacteria or an animal to cause ammonia to spike. You should do a water change pronto. "Dilution is the solution to polution."


should I do a water change in between the lightout??? and another after the light out??
[/QUOTE]

No, do a 50% water change and test in the morning. Make sure pH, specific gravity and temp are the same as in your tank. If you still have ammonia tomorrow, do another water change (and fish out the dead tang).


I have put a blanket over my tank since tuesday to make sure no sunlight would hit the tank. I only lift the blanket to change the bulb in my refuge and add some more snails today for about 30 mins.
[/QUOTE]

I hate to tell you that you wasted money, but a 50/50 bulb isn't really the bulb you wanted. You want something that is 100% daylight, no actinics. I've never heard of a "pink daylight". Sounds like something Petco sells for an iguana tank. Lawnmower blennies are cool, but please don't get upset when you discover that he isn't eating your cyano.

Also, regarding your RO/DI unit, you can ditch that last stage--the water polishing stage. It's just a final carbon filter that is supposed to make your water taste extra special.


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Unread 07/09/2008, 08:52 PM   #27
SharkBait_Mtl
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I looked everywhere for a compact fluorecant bulb 6500k + and could not find them anywhere... I even went to a hydoponic store and they did not have. When I went to my LFS to pck up the phosphate test salt and other stuff I asked and he pointed me in the direction of another LFS that might have the lights and I found these... the guy there suggested that I use both



as for my fish most are accounted for from what I can see in the darkness.... the wrasse is probably buried like he usualy is at night, and the mandarin and the lawnmower I could not see... I will double check early tomorow morning when I have more light and do the water change... In my apartment I have limited space so I can only do a 25g water change at a time... I have 25g mixed as of 2 hrs ago and am letting it airate overnight like I usually do when I prepare water for a water change.... display and sump combined I would say I have about 110-120g (90gal diplay + 60gal sump - displacement of rocks (120lbs liverock))

since I cannot do a 50% water change I guess I will have to do a daily water change till friday... correct me if I am wrong...


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~700g system
180g in-wall reef (build)
40g coral raising tank
60g DT
80g banggai breeder
29g clown breeder
20g raising tank
+ 3 sumps, refugium
Profilux Plus EX2 controlled

Reefing is like racing... the faster you go the harder you crash

click red house for my 180 build
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Unread 07/09/2008, 10:22 PM   #28
crsswift70
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I'm sure everyone has their opinion, but the fuge isn't a display so there is no need for actinics or... whatever that pink bulb is (although i do see where it says daylight bulb on it?). 10k should be fine i would think as it is supposed to mimic sunlight. i personally use a 6500k flood light with built in reflector. I think it's the same one Melev's page shows. I'd take the pink bulb back and say you decided to not even try it Also, i would make sure yout blanket is still allowing airflow. I would think heat buildup (even with no lights) and stagnant air wouldn't be a good thing. HOLD ON.. i just looked up that pink light, it is supposed to be 6700k.. might be right after all. "Coralife Colormax
6,700°K full spectrum lamps with color-enhancing phosphors. Ideal for freshwater aquariums."



Last edited by crsswift70; 07/09/2008 at 10:27 PM.
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Unread 07/10/2008, 09:32 PM   #29
SharkBait_Mtl
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did the water change this morning... nitrates and ammonia are a little lower...(nitrates at a little higher than 50 and ammonia a little higher than 0.25)

I do not understand where all the crap came from... before I started the "light out" I had no ammonia, and nitrates were 10-20. when the bacteria from the cyano dies off, does it produce all this crap??? considering the amount of cyano I had in my tank


prepping another water change for tomorow....

I looked in my tank and all of my fish are still alive...

however I still cannot find any trace of the shrimp I put in a month back... I know one of the cleaners died 2 weelks ago... I found it stuck to one of my powerheads... but the fire shrimp and the 2nd cleaner I have not seen since I put them in...

tomorow I take the blanket off the tank... I will be posting a before and after pic that way ppl who have never done this will see it's effectivness


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SharkBait_Mtl

~700g system
180g in-wall reef (build)
40g coral raising tank
60g DT
80g banggai breeder
29g clown breeder
20g raising tank
+ 3 sumps, refugium
Profilux Plus EX2 controlled

Reefing is like racing... the faster you go the harder you crash

click red house for my 180 build
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Unread 07/11/2008, 05:18 PM   #30
SharkBait_Mtl
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Montreal
Posts: 354
here are the pics of the tank after the light out period.

before



after





and here is a pic of the pink and blue lights with a recently added phosban reactor (using carbon in it though)




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SharkBait_Mtl

~700g system
180g in-wall reef (build)
40g coral raising tank
60g DT
80g banggai breeder
29g clown breeder
20g raising tank
+ 3 sumps, refugium
Profilux Plus EX2 controlled

Reefing is like racing... the faster you go the harder you crash

click red house for my 180 build
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Unread 07/11/2008, 09:35 PM   #31
crsswift70
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Quite the difference.


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