Which eats hair algae better?? - Page 2

abulgin · 06/26/2008, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by MMM33732
I know about phosphate removal and all that is necessary, but I need to get rid of what I currently have. I assumed it would die off by now but hasn't my phosphates and nitrates both test at 0. I know they must not be since the algae is still there, but its not growing at all, so it may be. Its just not going away. I have a fuge with chaeto as well as 2 phosphate reactors running GFO. I feed a small amount every other day and have for a long time now. Only thing I can think of is the rocks perhaps leaching stored phosphate. Like I said, its not growing, its just not dying. So I need to find something to remove what I have, hence the poll asking what will eat it better, not what will stop it.

On that tang note, I currently have a yellow tang who doesn't touch it. Also had a lownmower blenny who never touched it as well as currently have 2 sea hares, one small and one large. They Don't really seem to eat it either. They seem more interested in film algae for some reason.

Your problem may be that you are removing TOO MUCH phosphate between the fuge/Chaeto and the TLF reactors. Everything needs some amount of phosphate to survive/prosper. When your phosphate removal is too efficient, aggressive algae, like hair algae and BGA, will out-compete other things, like macroalgae, for the little bit of phosphate there is. Personally, I would remove the TLF reactor and let your Chaeto/fuge do the work. I had a bad BGA problem, did some research/asked some experts. Unplugged my TLF reactor and my Chaeto started to grow fast again (had slowed down) and my BGA went away . . .

I think sometimes people get so crazy about phosphates that they sterilize their water--not good.

MMM33732 · 06/26/2008, 07:47 PM

My chaeto has never really grown very good. Even with doseing iron and before I added the GFO, it still didn't seem to grow well. The GFO is the primary phosphate export system due to this and I assume it will also continue to hinder the growth of any macro, but like I said it never grew well even before I added the GFO. I'm thinking of switching to caulerpa in hopes of better growth.

abulgin · 06/26/2008, 08:43 PM

do you have good lighting in your fuge? You might want to scrap your existing Chaeto and replace it with a new batch. sometimes, for whatever reason, Chaeto just doesn't grow. Also, Chaeto really needs to be stimulated--it should be thinned, pulled apart and shaken from time to time. I would try to make Chaeto work before trying Caulerpa--too much risk for me.

Jay03GT · 06/26/2008, 09:28 PM

what kind of salt are you using?

CyanoMagnet · 06/26/2008, 09:29 PM

Ok look. Im going to agree with most of the folk here who are telling you that you have nutrient problems. Phosphate test kits are garbage.

Here are the things I would do and in this order.

1.Powerfull skimmer.. A must.. Wet skim the crap out of your tank for a good week. Then start cleaning, siphoning, changing 50% water.

2.Water flow should be above avarage at least.

3.Do you have a refugium? Great way to export nutrients. I have macro algae and a DSB in mine.

4.remote DSB, maybe in your fuge, maybe a 5 gallon dyi that costs next to nothing.

Here is how options 3 and 4 are. I did not change water for 1 year. My skimmer was broke for months (maybe 6? I have no idea). The ONLY thing I did to my tank was replace evap water.

I had no algae, cyano of anykind. Nothing. Still don't. After getting around to testing the water, my nitrates were 20ppm, which is a small miracle.

5. Ro/di water. Make sure you don't import unneeded nutrients through water chages.
A very forgiving set up to say the least.

Lets say you tried everything I said so far and failed... Then you have the option of carbon dosing. Research it thoroughly before implementing. A very powerfull tool to get nitrates and phosphates to nonexistence. Also can be dangerous, as are many forms of husbandry in our field.

GL.

Jay03GT · 06/26/2008, 09:38 PM

I've never understood why everyone preaches RO/DI water, but never think that maybe their salt mix is the cause of the HA. It seems there is another thread on here everyday about it. How many peope actually test their WC water for P and N?

CyanoMagnet · 06/26/2008, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jay03GT
I've never understood why everyone preaches RO/DI water, but never think that maybe their salt mix is the cause of the HA. It seems there is another thread on here everyday about it. How many peope actually test their WC water for P and N?

I have, and you're right, people should test their salt. I have also tested my tap water and its got alot of everything.

Good read here.

http://reefsaltanalysis.googlepages....lysis_0208.pdf

Jay03GT · 06/26/2008, 10:19 PM

that is a good read. But each batch of salt can and probably will be different. Sometimes not by much, sometimes in something critical. I know when I switched from IO to TM my HA disappeared. Conincidence? Perhaps, but that is just as scientific as a water test by a company that has been proven time and again to have errors.

luvreefs23 · 06/26/2008, 10:25 PM

When i had to get rid of a couple large patches of hair algae in my 29 i used some curved nose hair trimming scissors while my dad sucked up what i cut. I cut as close as i could to the rock and from there my hermits and emeralds took care of what was left. I remember asking my lfs why the animals i had that were suppose to eat the stuff werent touching it and they told me sometimes they wont mess with it if theres to much. Within a couple weeks of thinning it out it was gone and never returned.

Snailpowered · 06/26/2008, 10:26 PM

I gave my long spined urchin to a friend after i was done using it and it cleaned his 120 in about a week and all he had was hair algae.

Long spined urchin FTW

shawn1111111111 · 06/27/2008, 07:57 PM

Ok well just to let you know im in the same boat... Nothing I have done has help rid this problem and it sounds like we have the same type of setup. I do massive water changes with LFS water who has a 10000$ R/O DI filter and is tested daily. I have a fuge and phos reactor. My nitrates and phos both test 0 and I have confirmed that against new water before it is ever added to my take. I have a sea hair that wont touch the stuff and snails although I guess i could have more than i do. I have two emerald crabs that dont touch it. I have also tried the raising my Mag without any change in it. I have changed light bulbs out and nothing I have done has stopped it. Im to the point of giving up and getting out of the hobby I have pumped way to much money into this and cant seem to get it under control. I love my tank, but something has to give. Anything you come across that works please let me know.

sabbath · 06/27/2008, 08:10 PM

Lots of a good GFO in a reactor is the only thing that worked for me.

Matt850 · 06/27/2008, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by downhillbiker
emerald crabs. but fix the phosphate problem too, that is most important.

+1

SantaMonica · 07/27/2008, 02:18 AM

You might consider a new option to get rid of algae, a turf algae filter, that you put in a bucket (like a bucket DSB). It will remove the nitrate and phosphate level of the water down to zero, and thus the algae on the rocks will disappear.

In just the last few weeks, my Turf Algae Filterr has wiped out all measurable PO4 and NO3. And it has done this with my skimmer REMOVED, and, I also removed the carbon, phosban, polyfilter(s), and filtersock; I don't use ozone, vodka, zeo or anything else now. I'm feeding massive amounts too; enough that if I had my previous filtering setup, I'd have to clean the glass twice a day, and everything in the tank would be covered in green or brown algae. Amazing.

If you'd like info on the turf algae filter that you can build in a bucket with parts you probably already have, go here:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...6#post12931276

View Poll Results: Which eats hair algae better?
Blue leg hermit crabs	3	6.00%
Astrea/Turbo snails	18	36.00%
Both together	6	12.00%
Something else (Don't include sea hares or blennies)	23	46.00%
Voters: 50. You may not vote on this poll

06/26/2008, 08:43 PM	#28
abulgin Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Baltimore, MD Posts: 2,664	do you have good lighting in your fuge? You might want to scrap your existing Chaeto and replace it with a new batch. sometimes, for whatever reason, Chaeto just doesn't grow. Also, Chaeto really needs to be stimulated--it should be thinned, pulled apart and shaken from time to time. I would try to make Chaeto work before trying Caulerpa--too much risk for me. Last edited by abulgin; 06/26/2008 at 08:50 PM.

06/26/2008, 09:29 PM	#30
CyanoMagnet Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Brooklyn ,NY Posts: 1,272	Ok look. Im going to agree with most of the folk here who are telling you that you have nutrient problems. Phosphate test kits are garbage. Here are the things I would do and in this order. 1.Powerfull skimmer.. A must.. Wet skim the crap out of your tank for a good week. Then start cleaning, siphoning, changing 50% water. 2.Water flow should be above avarage at least. 3.Do you have a refugium? Great way to export nutrients. I have macro algae and a DSB in mine. 4.remote DSB, maybe in your fuge, maybe a 5 gallon dyi that costs next to nothing. Here is how options 3 and 4 are. I did not change water for 1 year. My skimmer was broke for months (maybe 6? I have no idea). The ONLY thing I did to my tank was replace evap water. I had no algae, cyano of anykind. Nothing. Still don't. After getting around to testing the water, my nitrates were 20ppm, which is a small miracle. 5. Ro/di water. Make sure you don't import unneeded nutrients through water chages. A very forgiving set up to say the least. Lets say you tried everything I said so far and failed... Then you have the option of carbon dosing. Research it thoroughly before implementing. A very powerfull tool to get nitrates and phosphates to nonexistence. Also can be dangerous, as are many forms of husbandry in our field. GL. __________________ Salifert - - - - - - Phosphates ud, ud Nitrates .0xxxppm, Alk 9dkh Calcium 445ppm mag 1380 PH 7.7-8.0 Salinity, 1.026 11/27/2008 Current Tank Info: 72 g bf,15g sump->16g qt,10g refugium w/ DSB and cheato (lots), T5 lighting 6x54watt (2x10k,2xab,blue act,super act),korallin 1501 ca reactor,sulfur denitrator(korallin),bullet 1 skimmer,phosban reactor(running carbon atm),2xtunze1500gph,3xkoralin

06/26/2008, 07:47 PM	#27
MMM33732 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: ohio Posts: 690	My chaeto has never really grown very good. Even with doseing iron and before I added the GFO, it still didn't seem to grow well. The GFO is the primary phosphate export system due to this and I assume it will also continue to hinder the growth of any macro, but like I said it never grew well even before I added the GFO. I'm thinking of switching to caulerpa in hopes of better growth.

06/26/2008, 09:28 PM	#29
Jay03GT Registered Member. Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 606	what kind of salt are you using?

06/26/2008, 09:38 PM	#31
Jay03GT Registered Member. Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 606	I've never understood why everyone preaches RO/DI water, but never think that maybe their salt mix is the cause of the HA. It seems there is another thread on here everyday about it. How many peope actually test their WC water for P and N?

06/26/2008, 10:19 PM	#33
Jay03GT Registered Member. Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 606	that is a good read. But each batch of salt can and probably will be different. Sometimes not by much, sometimes in something critical. I know when I switched from IO to TM my HA disappeared. Conincidence? Perhaps, but that is just as scientific as a water test by a company that has been proven time and again to have errors.

06/26/2008, 10:25 PM	#34
luvreefs23 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 758	When i had to get rid of a couple large patches of hair algae in my 29 i used some curved nose hair trimming scissors while my dad sucked up what i cut. I cut as close as i could to the rock and from there my hermits and emeralds took care of what was left. I remember asking my lfs why the animals i had that were suppose to eat the stuff werent touching it and they told me sometimes they wont mess with it if theres to much. Within a couple weeks of thinning it out it was gone and never returned.

06/26/2008, 10:26 PM	#35
Snailpowered Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Orlando Posts: 322	I gave my long spined urchin to a friend after i was done using it and it cleaned his 120 in about a week and all he had was hair algae. Long spined urchin FTW

06/27/2008, 07:57 PM	#36
shawn1111111111 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Alvin, Texas Posts: 10	Ok well just to let you know im in the same boat... Nothing I have done has help rid this problem and it sounds like we have the same type of setup. I do massive water changes with LFS water who has a 10000$ R/O DI filter and is tested daily. I have a fuge and phos reactor. My nitrates and phos both test 0 and I have confirmed that against new water before it is ever added to my take. I have a sea hair that wont touch the stuff and snails although I guess i could have more than i do. I have two emerald crabs that dont touch it. I have also tried the raising my Mag without any change in it. I have changed light bulbs out and nothing I have done has stopped it. Im to the point of giving up and getting out of the hobby I have pumped way to much money into this and cant seem to get it under control. I love my tank, but something has to give. Anything you come across that works please let me know.

06/27/2008, 08:10 PM	#37
sabbath Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Twin City's Mn. Posts: 1,771	Lots of a good GFO in a reactor is the only thing that worked for me.

07/27/2008, 02:18 AM	#39
SantaMonica Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Santa Monica, California, USA Posts: 2,511	You might consider a new option to get rid of algae, a turf algae filter, that you put in a bucket (like a bucket DSB). It will remove the nitrate and phosphate level of the water down to zero, and thus the algae on the rocks will disappear. In just the last few weeks, my Turf Algae Filterr has wiped out all measurable PO4 and NO3. And it has done this with my skimmer REMOVED, and, I also removed the carbon, phosban, polyfilter(s), and filtersock; I don't use ozone, vodka, zeo or anything else now. I'm feeding massive amounts too; enough that if I had my previous filtering setup, I'd have to clean the glass twice a day, and everything in the tank would be covered in green or brown algae. Amazing. If you'd like info on the turf algae filter that you can build in a bucket with parts you probably already have, go here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...6#post12931276