sump for 125g

jadeguppy · 08/08/2008, 04:46 PM

What would be considered the minimum size sump for a 125g, including the fuge? The stand has a 23 1/2" opening in the front. I can't remove the other support boards.

Bio Ball · 08/08/2008, 04:56 PM

can you slide something bigger than 23" in from the back? I got a 40 in from the back under my 90 gallon.

SWINGRRRR · 08/08/2008, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bio Ball
can you slide something bigger than 23" in from the back?

Sorry, ban me if you have to, but that is the absolute best post in the history of the internet.

Salamander · 08/08/2008, 05:44 PM

Now that's just funny.

Maybe you could post a pic of the stand? I had to cut out the center brace on my stand to get my 40g breeder underneath. I built a temporary brace and then cut it out. Once the tank was in place I reinstalled the original brace and removed the temp bracing.

I think Melev has pics on his sight of how to do this and how you can cut a hole in the side of the stand to uh...er....slide it in.

Mike Murphy · 08/08/2008, 06:37 PM

You do not need to cut anything just knock a rear support in the middle out. If it is a manufactured stand for a 125 they use wire brads to nail the pieces together. I put a 40 long glass tank under mine. I also cut plywood for a floor and screwed things back together. Easier than removing a side panel. Check here:http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f2..._tab_my_albums

jadeguppy · 08/08/2008, 07:09 PM

I was told it is an Oceanic stand. Yes, it has brads. I would knock it out, but I don't know how to do pocket screws to screw the board back in.

I can get something bigger than 23" as long as it will fit through the opening. I mentioned the opening hoping someone had the same issue and knows what will fit through it.

The good thing is I haven't put the tank on it.

In fact, the stain/ poly is drying right now. A 40 breeder would be nice. Mike, how did you reinstall the support beam?

Mike Murphy · 08/08/2008, 09:30 PM

The support beam was a 2x4. After I slid the tank in place I repositioned the support and put self couter sinking screws in place from the top & bottom. You can lay the stand on it's side to get to the bottom. If they did not leave the back open like mine with a couple of 2x4's then it might be a little more difficult with 1x6's or waht ever they used but it is certainly not hard. All you need is a hammer, variable speed drill and some wood screws. Get the kind that have a special square head with a bit that comes with them so you can torque em down below the surface of the wood.

jadeguppy · 08/09/2008, 08:07 AM

They made it with 1x4's on the back. A total of 5 for 4 open spaces. I'm accustomed to 2x4's and was concerned if the stand is strong enough, but it has been running that way so I guess it is. Square head screws is a great suggestion. If I take a screw down the center of the boards they attach to it will probably split. Will it hold if I hammer another of the corrogated wire brads in where the old ones were? What about using a small metal plate to hold the support in place?

Mike Murphy · 08/09/2008, 09:38 AM

Pre drill your holes so they will not split. As long as they are back in place and square to the opening they will support great weight. Or maybe you could put 2x4's back.

08/08/2008, 04:46 PM	#1
jadeguppy Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: nw Florida Posts: 2,611	sump for 125g What would be considered the minimum size sump for a 125g, including the fuge? The stand has a 23 1/2" opening in the front. I can't remove the other support boards.

08/08/2008, 04:56 PM	#2
Bio Ball Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: DE Posts: 49	can you slide something bigger than 23" in from the back? I got a 40 in from the back under my 90 gallon. Last edited by Bio Ball; 08/08/2008 at 05:47 PM.

08/08/2008, 05:44 PM	#4
Salamander Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Flagstaff, Arizona Posts: 2,103	Now that's just funny. Maybe you could post a pic of the stand? I had to cut out the center brace on my stand to get my 40g breeder underneath. I built a temporary brace and then cut it out. Once the tank was in place I reinstalled the original brace and removed the temp bracing. I think Melev has pics on his sight of how to do this and how you can cut a hole in the side of the stand to uh...er....slide it in. __________________ I feel more like myself now than I did before. Current Tank Info: 120g mixed reef, 2 x 250W DE MH, 2 x 54w T5, MSX 200 SKimmer, 2 Koralia 4's, 40g fuge/sump, QT

08/08/2008, 06:37 PM	#5
Mike Murphy Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Greencastle, Indiana Posts: 258	You do not need to cut anything just knock a rear support in the middle out. If it is a manufactured stand for a 125 they use wire brads to nail the pieces together. I put a 40 long glass tank under mine. I also cut plywood for a floor and screwed things back together. Easier than removing a side panel. Check here:http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f2..._tab_my_albums

08/08/2008, 07:09 PM	#6
jadeguppy Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: nw Florida Posts: 2,611	I was told it is an Oceanic stand. Yes, it has brads. I would knock it out, but I don't know how to do pocket screws to screw the board back in. I can get something bigger than 23" as long as it will fit through the opening. I mentioned the opening hoping someone had the same issue and knows what will fit through it. The good thing is I haven't put the tank on it. In fact, the stain/ poly is drying right now. A 40 breeder would be nice. Mike, how did you reinstall the support beam?

08/08/2008, 09:30 PM	#7
Mike Murphy Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Greencastle, Indiana Posts: 258	The support beam was a 2x4. After I slid the tank in place I repositioned the support and put self couter sinking screws in place from the top & bottom. You can lay the stand on it's side to get to the bottom. If they did not leave the back open like mine with a couple of 2x4's then it might be a little more difficult with 1x6's or waht ever they used but it is certainly not hard. All you need is a hammer, variable speed drill and some wood screws. Get the kind that have a special square head with a bit that comes with them so you can torque em down below the surface of the wood.

08/09/2008, 08:07 AM	#8
jadeguppy Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: nw Florida Posts: 2,611	They made it with 1x4's on the back. A total of 5 for 4 open spaces. I'm accustomed to 2x4's and was concerned if the stand is strong enough, but it has been running that way so I guess it is. Square head screws is a great suggestion. If I take a screw down the center of the boards they attach to it will probably split. Will it hold if I hammer another of the corrogated wire brads in where the old ones were? What about using a small metal plate to hold the support in place?

08/09/2008, 09:38 AM	#9
Mike Murphy Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Greencastle, Indiana Posts: 258	Pre drill your holes so they will not split. As long as they are back in place and square to the opening they will support great weight. Or maybe you could put 2x4's back.