cynaobacteria

[CraigSlice]

my sand bed is covered in cynaobacteria, or i atleast believe it to be cynao. I turned the lights off for 3 1/2 days and the left half of it disappeared (returned in a day or two tho) but the right half stayed the same, so im thinking that maybe it isnt cynao.

Any idea's on how to stop it, whatever it is. I dont have a phosphate test, but the rest are PH 8.1 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0 Ammonia 0

Left Side


Right side

[kau_cinta_ku]

looks like a mix of canyo and diatoms.

what do you have for flow? what is your cleanup crew like? are you using rodi water?

IMO po4 test kits are not very good. if you have algae you have phosphates. do you run any type of phosphate remover?

[abulgin]

It's cyano. Light deprivation really isn't a solution, or at least a long-term solution. Nutrient control, particularly of nitrates and phosphates, is the key. Are you running a fuge with macroalgae or a Phos reactor? Doing weekly water changes with RO/DI water? Limiting your feedings?

Plus, your tank is only 5 months old. Some algae outbreaks, including cyano, are to be expected during the first year as your tank settles/matures. I wouldn't get too worked up over it unless if takes over your tank.

[thewashcaps]

You need to test for phosphate and use ro/di water and use a fuge, Something is feeding it just need to find out what. Though its not to bad from your pictures

[inachu]

Originally posted by CraigSlice
my sand bed is covered in cynaobacteria, or i atleast believe it to be cynao. I turned the lights off for 3 1/2 days and the left half of it disappeared (returned in a day or two tho) but the right half stayed the same, so im thinking that maybe it isnt cynao.

Any idea's on how to stop it, whatever it is. I dont have a phosphate test, but the rest are PH 8.1 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0 Ammonia 0

Left Side


Right side

im starting to get that reddish purple stuff myself.

[CraigSlice]

Flow: two Korala 3's and the flow from my HOB (Octopus bh300-f)

CUC: 13 blue hermits 3 red hermits, 10 astraea snails, 15 nass. snails, 1 fighting conch, and a lawnmower blenny (not really part of the cuc but eat algae)

I am not running a fuge, or any phosphate removers.

I do use RO/DI water with weekly changes. and feed only once a day.

I had thought of a HOB fuge since i am sumpless, but wasnt sure how effective it would be since they are on the small side

[mohawk]

I used Red Slime Remover from Ultralife and its worked for me.

[Magnus6208]

I'm not sure if anyone said this or not but you have to do a 10% water change before you turn off your lights and another 10% water change before the lights turn back on to get rid of the die off. Works for me....good luck.

[TTU_Reefer]

water changes are good, but is your tank new? Stock list?

They make medication for cyano bacteria(cant think of name), I have used it and it works IF you also fix the reasons you have it to start with...nutrients. (like said above).

Id try and run a large fuge, any is better than none though

[CraigSlice]

tank is only about 6 months old with 2 O. clowns, 1 chromis, 1 lawnmower blenny and 2 cleaner shrimp

[TTU_Reefer]

try the medication out, and water changes like magnus said.

[scottallens]

chemi-clean cyano remover I think it is manufactered by Boyd Enterprises. It will work, however it is a waste unless you find the source of the outbreak, (nutrients, flow,) Also a phosban reactor can help. You can find them here in the used equipment for a reasonable price if your patient. LFS have them for around $50, you still will need a pump and the media. Just remember your tank is just starting to go thorough its periodic changes. Things will shift, keep doing your water changes, you can feed more than once a day, just give them a pinch at a time. Observe them when you feed them. Turn off your filter when you feed. Feel free to post me with any other questions you have, we are all here to help. Welcome to a great hobby.

[scottallens]

and I forgot to add, run carbon, you will be amazed how much it will remove toxins, pollutants that cyano can thrive on. Run it passive if you have to. If you add it to a reactor it works alot better. No shame in buying used equipment. I do it all the time.
Also not sure if Maine has a local reef club to be a part of, start going to the meetings if you can.

[abulgin]

Do NOT use any medication. First, it contains erythromycin. It works becauseit kills bacteria--all bacteria, including your bio filter. You would likely go through a re-cycle. Second, your tank is too new to use this medication, because your biofilter is too new to withstand the aforementioned onslaught. Third, a good rule is to never add medication to your display tank. Fourth, as I said, your tank is in the first year of stabilizing and some cyano cycle is expected. I would just keep up with regular RO/DI water changes and be patient to see if it goes away on its own.

Your cyano problem, from what I can see, is not that bad.

Check to make sure your RO/DI water has no nitrates/phosphates. Check also your makeup salt water to make sure you don't have a bad batch of salt, which does happen.

Although a larger fuge is best, any fuge is better than no fuge.

[CraigSlice]

ok ill look into a HOB fuge, and continue weekly water changes.

as for a hob fuge (space is tight so cant do sump/refugium) i was looking at this http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...fm?pcatid=3618 but was curious if anyone knew if the pump was inside the fuge or if it hangs in the tank.

Also anyone have any suggestions on what to put in it besides cheato? or know a place that sells em cheaper

Thanks alot for the help!

[scottallens]

any medium to large hang on filter will do vs that fuge. You can get a light for under $30.00 and just set it on top. It will spill back into the tank and all feed with pods eventually. Check out Utube.com "DIY Refugium" it will give a basic concept. Good luck