Ca Reactor Effluent drip=0

dfm34 · 08/22/2008, 08:21 AM

I have been trying to dial in my CA reactor for about a week and a half now. I was running the effluent to a cup out side of me tank just to get the alk/ph correct. The tube from the reactor to the cup was only about 8"(a drip rate of 40 per min) and now that the effluent ph/alk is what I want I ran the tube (about 18") around the back of the tank to my sump and my drip rate is now zero. Does the longer run effect the drip rate? Should I increase the rate ? I don't see any kinks? I just cant figure this out? Can anyone please help with this.

Thanks

gws76 · 08/22/2008, 09:05 AM

What are you using to control your drips?

crvz · 08/22/2008, 09:31 AM

more pressure could result in lower flow rates, so yes the length of tubing can affect drip rate. also, it's a newer setup, but as stuff builds up you'll also need to increase the flow (it'll probably slow down over time).

dfm34 · 08/22/2008, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by crvz
more pressure could result in lower flow rates, so yes the length of tubing can affect drip rate. also, it's a newer setup, but as stuff builds up you'll also need to increase the flow (it'll probably slow down over time).

For drip control on the end of the 8" segement I have a a pinch valve.

The system is new to my tank I bought it used does this make a difference? Should I open the pinch valve and remesure the drip rate to the sump?

gws76 · 08/22/2008, 10:03 AM

I would open it up and readjust the drip rate. My drip rate changes from time to time. I just have to open it up and adjust it. What kind of reactor did you buy?
As far as buying it used, not a problem. As long as it is in sound condition. I bought mine used. I cleaned it really well before putting it into use.

dfm34 · 08/22/2008, 07:20 PM

I am using a Korallin 1502 I rasied the reactor so it was dripping "down hill" it started to folw great the stopped. I just don't want the lack of effluent drip through the Alk and PH out of whack

crvz · 08/22/2008, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by dfm34
For drip control on the end of the 8" segement I have a a pinch valve.

The system is new to my tank I bought it used does this make a difference? Should I open the pinch valve and remesure the drip rate to the sump?

Yup, I'd just adjust it to the new parameters of the setup (longer hoses). Also, not entirely sure what a pinch valve is, I'd highly recommend getting a needle valve for the effluent drip. You can get JG fitted needlevalves (or many other types) at www.usplastics.com, though it probably won't be too cheap (I think their shipping is steep when buying just one or two little things like that).

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...uct%5Fid=15616

crvz · 08/22/2008, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by dfm34
I am using a Korallin 1502 I rasied the reactor so it was dripping "down hill" it started to folw great the stopped. I just don't want the lack of effluent drip through the Alk and PH out of whack

Sorry, had another thought. Whenever I setup a calcium reactor, I do tests daily the first week to get it dialed in, and then every 2-3 days for the next couple weeks to make sure everything is in line. The first time I ever set one up, I pegged my alkalinity at the high end, and it wasnt so great on the tank. So your hesitation is justified, but testing will tell you the real story.

dfm34 · 08/23/2008, 06:54 AM

I tested my DT and since installing the reactor my CA is the same 420 but my ALk has gone from 8.0 dkh/2.86 meq to 10.2dkh/ 3.66 meq. This increase is over about a two week period put I will keep an eye on it. If the ALk continues to rise what should I do short of turning off the reactor?

jtma508 · 08/23/2008, 07:00 AM

I also run the 1520 and was pulling my hair ut because the valves that come with the unit are so fickle. What I finally did was get a plastic needle valve from US Plastics. It screws right into the reactor effluent plumbing and I installed a JG fitting to accommodate the tubing to the sump. Works great and easy to dial-in. You will need to set your effluent rate with the tubing setup as it will run. 'Downhill' shouldn't matter. How are you feeding your reactor (in water)?

crvz · 08/23/2008, 07:58 AM

you'll just have to cut the flow back from the effluent, or raise the pH in the reactor chamber, wait about a day and test again.

frank2926 · 08/23/2008, 08:05 AM

dont worry about the drip rate, set it so it is dripping so fast it is almost a stream. Then increase your co2 as needed. Running the effluent faster will help keep it from clogging or slowing down.

rogergolf66 · 09/05/2008, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by frank2926
dont worry about the drip rate, set it so it is dripping so fast it is almost a stream. Then increase your co2 as needed. Running the effluent faster will help keep it from clogging or slowing down.

I second that. I did this with my old reactor it worked great!!!

08/22/2008, 08:21 AM	#1
dfm34 Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Spotswood, New Jersey Posts: 588	Ca Reactor Effluent drip=0 I have been trying to dial in my CA reactor for about a week and a half now. I was running the effluent to a cup out side of me tank just to get the alk/ph correct. The tube from the reactor to the cup was only about 8"(a drip rate of 40 per min) and now that the effluent ph/alk is what I want I ran the tube (about 18") around the back of the tank to my sump and my drip rate is now zero. Does the longer run effect the drip rate? Should I increase the rate ? I don't see any kinks? I just cant figure this out? Can anyone please help with this. Thanks __________________ Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. 180 gal DT with 75 gal sump/fuge,10 gal cryptic zone, 3x400w MH with 4x80w T5. life reef vs3 30" skimmer

08/22/2008, 09:05 AM	#2
gws76 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: El Reno, OK Posts: 1,691 Blog Entries: 2	What are you using to control your drips? __________________ "Let there be Rock!" ~ Bon Scott 2010-2011 COMAS POTM Chairman Current Tank Info: 150 gal. Starphire Mixed Reef

08/22/2008, 09:31 AM	#3
crvz Team RC Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: houstonia Posts: 7,989	more pressure could result in lower flow rates, so yes the length of tubing can affect drip rate. also, it's a newer setup, but as stuff builds up you'll also need to increase the flow (it'll probably slow down over time). __________________ -Chris- You don't win friends with salad. "Look! They're trying to learn for free!" ... "Use your phony guns as clubs!" Current Tank Info: rectangluar? wet?

08/22/2008, 10:03 AM	#5
gws76 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: El Reno, OK Posts: 1,691 Blog Entries: 2	I would open it up and readjust the drip rate. My drip rate changes from time to time. I just have to open it up and adjust it. What kind of reactor did you buy? As far as buying it used, not a problem. As long as it is in sound condition. I bought mine used. I cleaned it really well before putting it into use. __________________ "Let there be Rock!" ~ Bon Scott 2010-2011 COMAS POTM Chairman Current Tank Info: 150 gal. Starphire Mixed Reef

08/22/2008, 07:20 PM	#6
dfm34 Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Spotswood, New Jersey Posts: 588	I am using a Korallin 1502 I rasied the reactor so it was dripping "down hill" it started to folw great the stopped. I just don't want the lack of effluent drip through the Alk and PH out of whack __________________ Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. 180 gal DT with 75 gal sump/fuge,10 gal cryptic zone, 3x400w MH with 4x80w T5. life reef vs3 30" skimmer

08/23/2008, 06:54 AM	#9
dfm34 Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Spotswood, New Jersey Posts: 588	I tested my DT and since installing the reactor my CA is the same 420 but my ALk has gone from 8.0 dkh/2.86 meq to 10.2dkh/ 3.66 meq. This increase is over about a two week period put I will keep an eye on it. If the ALk continues to rise what should I do short of turning off the reactor? __________________ Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. 180 gal DT with 75 gal sump/fuge,10 gal cryptic zone, 3x400w MH with 4x80w T5. life reef vs3 30" skimmer

08/23/2008, 07:00 AM	#10
jtma508 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: MA Posts: 1,232	I also run the 1520 and was pulling my hair ut because the valves that come with the unit are so fickle. What I finally did was get a plastic needle valve from US Plastics. It screws right into the reactor effluent plumbing and I installed a JG fitting to accommodate the tubing to the sump. Works great and easy to dial-in. You will need to set your effluent rate with the tubing setup as it will run. 'Downhill' shouldn't matter. How are you feeding your reactor (in water)?

08/23/2008, 07:58 AM	#11
crvz Team RC Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: houstonia Posts: 7,989	you'll just have to cut the flow back from the effluent, or raise the pH in the reactor chamber, wait about a day and test again. __________________ -Chris- You don't win friends with salad. "Look! They're trying to learn for free!" ... "Use your phony guns as clubs!" Current Tank Info: rectangluar? wet?

08/23/2008, 08:05 AM	#12
frank2926 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: phila Posts: 1,645	dont worry about the drip rate, set it so it is dripping so fast it is almost a stream. Then increase your co2 as needed. Running the effluent faster will help keep it from clogging or slowing down.