Lights out for a week or so.....

jbird0420 · 09/03/2008, 09:57 AM

Due to a severe green hair algae outbreak, looks like my only alternative is keeping my tank dark for a week or 2. It seems this might be the best solution, to cure my tank of this problem. I do have old bulbs that are gonna be replaced. My Ro/Di is pushing 25ppm, cause of a old membrane, which is on it's way all the other filters have been changed recently. I feed once a day, food is consumed in under 3 min. I tested my phosphates and it's reading 0. I did order Algae fix marine, to help kill of this algae. BTW all my water parameters a excellent. No ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrites, PH 8.3, calcium 420.

In thre mean time I plan on moving all my corals to my 55 qt tank for that 1-2 week period. I have a couple of questions about this adventure...
* Can my corals survive off just 8 hours of MH only for that period while the other tank is in darkness? If not I can move my Actinics over to the Qt tank as well...
* Since I do have some algae eaters in the algae infested tank, is it best to move them out to, or will they be ok in the darkness for that amount of time? My main concern would be my Lawnmower Blenny?

Thanks for the help!

espocrespo · 09/03/2008, 10:03 AM

Don't lawnmower blennies normally eat the algae? Have you tried a tang from the Zebrasoma sp. they normally clear up algae quickly.

illal · 09/03/2008, 10:04 AM

your fish and critters will be ok in the dark... and 8hrs of light/day is fine, i recently turned my lighting shcedule down to 7hrs/day since the electric company had a 8% increase and i kno some people that say even 6hrs is fine so u should be ok.... the corals would be fine for a few days without light but i would go as far as saying a week or 2 is fine

btw u say your phos tested out at zero but this doesnt mean they arnt present it just means the hair algae is consuming it all

with the algae problem your parameters are obviously not all at zero!

shaggy14 · 09/03/2008, 10:05 AM

the lawnmower should eat the algae. the corals would be fine under just the halide i should think. the actinics are more for our pleasure

jbird0420 · 09/03/2008, 10:16 AM

The Lawnmower Blenny cannot keep up, he's so fat..Got a belly like Santa!

I was going to move the corals to a separate tank w/ the lighting while the DT tank is in the dark.

I'm concerned out my Angel and Lawnmower Blenny getting the algae they need.. I guess if I turn the light on for 30 min and lightly feed them, they should be ok.

I currently using Drs F &S phosphate control, have a nice bag of it in my sump, I had my water tested at home and at my LFS, its Zero down the line. I believe there are some phosphates getting into the water through my water changes, my RO output is reading 25ppm. So that has to be fueling the algae along with old bulbs. I do run my MH's 8hrs/day and T12's/12 hrs a day.

Michael · 09/03/2008, 10:19 AM

definately have a phos problem, its difficult to test for because its used up quickly but something is causing it, probably was the ro-di, however you now have that in control, clean out your skimmer and whack it up, its suprising how that can help as well, it removes organics which nusience algae eat, if the skimmer and phos reactor is doing its job and you replace all the filters in the ro-di then things will improve im sure

jbird0420 · 09/03/2008, 10:31 AM

So, by cutting off my lights for a week...Is that a lil extreme? Shall I wait for the replacement bulbs and Ro membrane and let time takes it toll?

The skimmer I have on it is a basic seaclone skimmer, I think its rated for up to 100g. But the cup is filled weekly with that black, nasty crap. Is this skimmer okay, or shall I upgrade?

I also have been told not to clean the neck of the skimmer, just the cup. I guess apparently by not cleaning the neck of the skimmer, it collects more dissolved proteins and fish poop. I currently clean the cup and neck of the skimmer weekly. Shall I stop cleaning the neck of the skimmer??

REEF-n-Chicago · 09/03/2008, 10:47 AM

That is a terrible skimmer (sorry to say) an upgrade is due.....
Depending on what you have to spend there are lots of choices esp in the used forum.....

I do not think turning the lights off is extreme. Even with all your changes it is needed to get the algae under control.

Also, I do not clean my skimmer neck but am not sure if it helps or not? I'm just lazy

jbird0420 · 09/03/2008, 10:56 AM

I will look into a new skimmer, the Sea clones are really that bad huh?

Toddrtrex · 09/03/2008, 11:05 AM

If you don't fix the cause of your algae issues, it is just going to come back after the lights out -- and I have a feeling worse then before. Since the sudden die off of the algae there will be lot of nutrients put back into the tank.

First thing I would do is get a new RO membrane, and if you are using DI, get new resin, I am sure that it is spent now. Then think about getting a new skimmer.

shaggy14 · 09/03/2008, 11:07 AM

yes, the seaclowns suck.lol i had one to start out with, and it worked ok, but after reading about how inefficient they are i ditched it quickly for a berlin, which I found to be equally ineffective.lol
Go with an octopus or something

pledosophy · 09/03/2008, 11:13 AM

IMHO you should fix the problems that you know of. Otherwise any thing you do will be a band aid and need to be done again and again, etc.

Then try three days with no light and keep everything in the tank. This will cause a massive algae die off so do a large water change at the end of the three days and siphon all the rocks and such. Let the tank go back to normal for a week or so, maybe cut your lighting down to 8 or 9 hours total a day (MH 7, actinic's 9). Repeat as needed.

JME

jbird0420 · 09/03/2008, 11:30 AM

Yea the membrane is shot! The DI resin filter was replaced a month ago. I know that should not be exhausted yet.

Quote:

Originally posted by Toddrtrex
If you don't fix the cause of your algae issues, it is just going to come back after the lights out -- and I have a feeling worse then before. Since the sudden die off of the algae there will be lot of nutrients put back into the tank.

First thing I would do is get a new RO membrane, and if you are using DI, get new resin, I am sure that it is spent now. Then think about getting a new skimmer.

Toddrtrex · 09/03/2008, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jbird0420
Yea the membrane is shot! The DI resin filter was replaced a month ago. I know that should not be exhausted yet.

Is that 25 TDS reading after the DI? If so, it is shot too.

jbird0420 · 09/03/2008, 11:41 AM

pledosophy, does my idea of moving them over to my qt 55g and keeping my 90g DT dark for a week or so a good idea? DO you suggest I keep them in the tank w/o lights for 3 days, will that harm my corals?

Quote:

Originally posted by pledosophy
IMHO you should fix the problems that you know of. Otherwise any thing you do will be a band aid and need to be done again and again, etc.

Then try three days with no light and keep everything in the tank. This will cause a massive algae die off so do a large water change at the end of the three days and siphon all the rocks and such. Let the tank go back to normal for a week or so, maybe cut your lighting down to 8 or 9 hours total a day (MH 7, actinic's 9). Repeat as needed.

JME

jbird0420 · 09/03/2008, 11:43 AM

I would have to look when I get home, but I beleive its reading it after the membrane, not sure! I thought the DI resin filters can last 6mo-1yr??

Quote:

Originally posted by Toddrtrex
Is that 25 TDS reading after the DI? If so, it is shot too.

Toddrtrex · 09/03/2008, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jbird0420
I would have to look when I get home, but I beleive its reading it after the membrane, not sure! I thought the DI resin filters can last 6mo-1yr??

DI resins don't have a time limit life, but a "used up life" -- for lack of a better term.

If your post RO water's TDS is 1, the DI resin is going to last you a long time. However, if the post RO water's TDS is 25, I wouldn't expect more then a couple of months for the DI resin.

A poor example, a DI resin can remove a total of 100 TDS, once you hit that number it is spent and can't remove any more. (( that number was pulled out of the air, but hopefully you get what I mean ))

pledosophy · 09/03/2008, 11:50 AM

IMHO removing everything to a QT tank is more harmful then going a three days at a time with no lights. then again I have no idea on how severe your algaes problems are.

When I tried moving stuff to a QT tank and going dark for an extended time period, I "reinfected" the display with algae again once I put the frags back in and in no time I was back where I started.

IME it is better to treat the tank as a whole. I would keep the entire tank with the corals and fish dark for three days. It has not shown to harm many corals a few acro's and some caps have faired the worst. There is a really long thread about doing the dark period on here somewhere. Give it a read. All the good and bads are in there.

IME things in the tank do better during dark periods if you have a refugium to help stabalize pH, jut an observation, not a scientific finding by any stretch.

DI can exhaust very quickly if it is filtering dirty water.

jbird0420 · 09/03/2008, 11:52 AM

Yea, I undertand what you mean.
Weidest thing, I just replaced DI resin filter a month ago maybe month and a half. TDS was reading zero for about 2 weeks, went up to 45ppm, now it's steady at 25ppm??

Quote:

Originally posted by Toddrtrex
DI resins don't have a time limit life, but a "used up life" -- for lack of a better term.

If your post RO water's TDS is 1, the DI resin is going to last you a long time. However, if the post RO water's TDS is 25, I wouldn't expect more then a couple of months for the DI resin.

A poor example, a DI resin can remove a total of 100 TDS, once you hit that number it is spent and can't remove any more. (( that number was pulled out of the air, but hopefully you get what I mean ))

jbird0420 · 09/03/2008, 11:55 AM

I will check out that thread, I looked at my newly replaced DI filter and it does look exhausted. I guess that explains why it looks that way so fast. I thought those things can last up to a year. I do have a couple of Acro frags in there, I hope they will be ok. I will post pics of the tank tonight, when I get home. So you guys can see.

Quote:

Originally posted by pledosophy
IMHO removing everything to a QT tank is more harmful then going a three days at a time with no lights. then again I have no idea on how severe your algaes problems are.

When I tried moving stuff to a QT tank and going dark for an extended time period, I "reinfected" the display with algae again once I put the frags back in and in no time I was back where I started.

IME it is better to treat the tank as a whole. I would keep the entire tank with the corals and fish dark for three days. It has not shown to harm many corals a few acro's and some caps have faired the worst. There is a really long thread about doing the dark period on here somewhere. Give it a read. All the good and bads are in there.

IME things in the tank do better during dark periods if you have a refugium to help stabalize pH, jut an observation, not a scientific finding by any stretch.

DI can exhaust very quickly if it is filtering dirty water.

jbird0420 · 09/03/2008, 06:00 PM

I ordered Algaefix Marine. I heard mixed reviews on this product, for some it's worked. The majority say this product is crap. Algaefix Marine and the others that have used it say it has not or will not hurt corals or inverts. If it has not hurt there stock, maybe it might work. I personally don't like chemicals, but I have an idea... I was thinking about moving all my rock to one side of the tank. Cover the rock with black plastic and secure it down. Turn off the MH light above the black plastic for a few weeks. I will have the corals on the other side in nothing but sand. Run that MH above the corals for 6 hours and hope for the best. In that duration I can do weekly water changes and with the rock in total darkness under black plastic with no light. It may work.. What do you think?

prickles · 09/03/2008, 11:50 PM

You asked what I think. I think you're getting too complicated. Moving rockwork will just stir stuff up. Try 3 days blackout and see what happens. Don't forget the post blackout water change(s) to get those nutrients from the dissolved algae out of the system. Don't move anything, don't add any fancy chemicals. If this doesn't work, then go to the next plan. Remember corals etc experience days of dark during storm systems, so 3 days should be just fine with minimal worries.

Mark426 · 09/04/2008, 05:48 AM

I agree with most everyone else. Turn off your lights for 3 to 4 days. BUT...you gotta figure out the root cause.

I would not do any of the chemical stuff. Sounds like your going to though since you have purchased some. Dont go crazy, like the plastic, moving rock, etc. That will only screw things up ...maybe beyond repair. (ie, crash)

Look...the facts are...you can get rid if the algae with the black out...but its going to come back as bad of worse than before unless you do something. Less feeding, less livestock, better skimmer, more water changes, etc. I have a feeling you need to do all of those things.

Its EASY to have a algae free (or very little) tank if you do just those things and give it time. Sounds easy ...huh?

jbird0420 · 09/04/2008, 07:40 PM

I do 15% water changes every 2 weeks. Today I cut the MH's back 2 hours, so total 6hours of MH. I also cut my t12's back 4 hours, so total 8hours of t12s. I really don't think I'm overfeeding since, it's frozen food I prepared. It's basically a knockoff of Formula 2, w/o gel binder. The food is consumed in under 3min, any leftover, is consumed by the bottom feeders. I just checked my RO/di unit, it went from 25ppm down to 12ppm????? Like I mentioned the membrane is on it's way, I'm going to do a weekly 10% water change in the tank. I as well have new MH bulbs coming, they should be here next week sometime, unless Hurricane Ike messes things up...

The fish I have..
Xmas Wrasse- which i'm thinking about selling or trading
Lawnmower Blenny
Maroon Clown
Royal Gramma
Potters Angel

Inverts
3 Serpant Stars
12 Astrea Turbo snails
Coral Banded Shrimp
5 or less Peppermint Shrimp
2 small sea urchins
Lots of bristle worms
Lots of the little bug like things crawling on the glass and nesting in the intake area????

I double checked my water parameters, test kits are new bottles say 6/08.
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
PH 8.4
Calcium 420ppm
Phos 0

anniesdad · 09/05/2008, 08:05 AM

I had a bad algae breakout.
And my lawnmower wouldn't touch the stuff.
I turn my photoperiod down to 3hrs.
Added a purple spiny sea urchin. - he ended up doing all the heavy lifting.
Cleaned it all up.
Sadly, the blenny never went back to eating.

Its a FOWLR.

09/03/2008, 09:57 AM	#1
jbird0420 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Parrish, Florida Posts: 1,079	Lights out for a week or so..... Due to a severe green hair algae outbreak, looks like my only alternative is keeping my tank dark for a week or 2. It seems this might be the best solution, to cure my tank of this problem. I do have old bulbs that are gonna be replaced. My Ro/Di is pushing 25ppm, cause of a old membrane, which is on it's way all the other filters have been changed recently. I feed once a day, food is consumed in under 3 min. I tested my phosphates and it's reading 0. I did order Algae fix marine, to help kill of this algae. BTW all my water parameters a excellent. No ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrites, PH 8.3, calcium 420. In thre mean time I plan on moving all my corals to my 55 qt tank for that 1-2 week period. I have a couple of questions about this adventure... * Can my corals survive off just 8 hours of MH only for that period while the other tank is in darkness? If not I can move my Actinics over to the Qt tank as well... * Since I do have some algae eaters in the algae infested tank, is it best to move them out to, or will they be ok in the darkness for that amount of time? My main concern would be my Lawnmower Blenny? Thanks for the help!

09/03/2008, 10:04 AM	#3
illal Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Tamarac, Fl Posts: 5,700	your fish and critters will be ok in the dark... and 8hrs of light/day is fine, i recently turned my lighting shcedule down to 7hrs/day since the electric company had a 8% increase and i kno some people that say even 6hrs is fine so u should be ok.... the corals would be fine for a few days without light but i would go as far as saying a week or 2 is fine btw u say your phos tested out at zero but this doesnt mean they arnt present it just means the hair algae is consuming it all with the algae problem your parameters are obviously not all at zero! __________________ -AL

09/03/2008, 10:05 AM	#4
shaggy14 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: denison texas Posts: 620	the lawnmower should eat the algae. the corals would be fine under just the halide i should think. the actinics are more for our pleasure __________________ 215g display, 80g melev sump, 60g melev frag tank, 2x mp40w's, mag 12 return pump, 3 modded 6025, 1 6065, koralia magnum 8, 2x250 phoenix hqi's, 1x250 phoenix SE, 2x160w actinics, MRC dual chamber calcium reactor with Ph controller, MR1 phosban reactor, Red sea ozonizer 200mg/hr with ORP controller, royal exclusive alpha cone 250 skimmer, reefkeeper elite on its way 80+ species of SPS and counting Current Tank Info: 215g display, 60g frag tank, 80g sump

09/03/2008, 10:19 AM	#6
Michael NTTH Rookie Help Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Gloucester, England,UK Posts: 7,808 Blog Entries: 6	definately have a phos problem, its difficult to test for because its used up quickly but something is causing it, probably was the ro-di, however you now have that in control, clean out your skimmer and whack it up, its suprising how that can help as well, it removes organics which nusience algae eat, if the skimmer and phos reactor is doing its job and you replace all the filters in the ro-di then things will improve im sure __________________ Don't be afraid to ask questions, we in the new to the hobby are here to help you [For My Tank Spec,Photo Album,Articles and website, click on my name] MY Very Kindest and Warmest Regards , MIKE Current Tank Info: I have a 92 gal Corner Tank, and way too many pieces of equipment to list really, (proud member of the reef central corner club)

09/03/2008, 10:47 AM	#8
REEF-n-Chicago Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Los Angeles, CA (san pedro) Posts: 1,456	That is a terrible skimmer (sorry to say) an upgrade is due..... Depending on what you have to spend there are lots of choices esp in the used forum..... I do not think turning the lights off is extreme. Even with all your changes it is needed to get the algae under control. Also, I do not clean my skimmer neck but am not sure if it helps or not? I'm just lazy __________________ Jordan My tank gets DRUNK every morning Current Tank Info: 150 Gallon w/ 100 gallon sump; 240 gallon

09/03/2008, 10:03 AM	#2
espocrespo Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: England Posts: 647	Don't lawnmower blennies normally eat the algae? Have you tried a tang from the Zebrasoma sp. they normally clear up algae quickly.

09/03/2008, 10:16 AM	#5
jbird0420 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Parrish, Florida Posts: 1,079	The Lawnmower Blenny cannot keep up, he's so fat..Got a belly like Santa! I was going to move the corals to a separate tank w/ the lighting while the DT tank is in the dark. I'm concerned out my Angel and Lawnmower Blenny getting the algae they need.. I guess if I turn the light on for 30 min and lightly feed them, they should be ok. I currently using Drs F &S phosphate control, have a nice bag of it in my sump, I had my water tested at home and at my LFS, its Zero down the line. I believe there are some phosphates getting into the water through my water changes, my RO output is reading 25ppm. So that has to be fueling the algae along with old bulbs. I do run my MH's 8hrs/day and T12's/12 hrs a day.

09/03/2008, 10:31 AM	#7
jbird0420 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Parrish, Florida Posts: 1,079	So, by cutting off my lights for a week...Is that a lil extreme? Shall I wait for the replacement bulbs and Ro membrane and let time takes it toll? The skimmer I have on it is a basic seaclone skimmer, I think its rated for up to 100g. But the cup is filled weekly with that black, nasty crap. Is this skimmer okay, or shall I upgrade? I also have been told not to clean the neck of the skimmer, just the cup. I guess apparently by not cleaning the neck of the skimmer, it collects more dissolved proteins and fish poop. I currently clean the cup and neck of the skimmer weekly. Shall I stop cleaning the neck of the skimmer??

09/03/2008, 10:56 AM	#9
jbird0420 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Parrish, Florida Posts: 1,079	I will look into a new skimmer, the Sea clones are really that bad huh?

09/03/2008, 11:05 AM	#10
Toddrtrex Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Carol Stream, IL Posts: 23,162	If you don't fix the cause of your algae issues, it is just going to come back after the lights out -- and I have a feeling worse then before. Since the sudden die off of the algae there will be lot of nutrients put back into the tank. First thing I would do is get a new RO membrane, and if you are using DI, get new resin, I am sure that it is spent now. Then think about getting a new skimmer. __________________ Click my name and then "visit toddrtrex's homepage" for tank pictures Current Tank Info: 210g reef and 65g reef

09/03/2008, 11:07 AM	#11
shaggy14 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: denison texas Posts: 620	yes, the seaclowns suck.lol i had one to start out with, and it worked ok, but after reading about how inefficient they are i ditched it quickly for a berlin, which I found to be equally ineffective.lol Go with an octopus or something __________________ 215g display, 80g melev sump, 60g melev frag tank, 2x mp40w's, mag 12 return pump, 3 modded 6025, 1 6065, koralia magnum 8, 2x250 phoenix hqi's, 1x250 phoenix SE, 2x160w actinics, MRC dual chamber calcium reactor with Ph controller, MR1 phosban reactor, Red sea ozonizer 200mg/hr with ORP controller, royal exclusive alpha cone 250 skimmer, reefkeeper elite on its way 80+ species of SPS and counting Current Tank Info: 215g display, 60g frag tank, 80g sump

09/03/2008, 11:13 AM	#12
pledosophy Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Beaverton Posts: 5,290	IMHO you should fix the problems that you know of. Otherwise any thing you do will be a band aid and need to be done again and again, etc. Then try three days with no light and keep everything in the tank. This will cause a massive algae die off so do a large water change at the end of the three days and siphon all the rocks and such. Let the tank go back to normal for a week or so, maybe cut your lighting down to 8 or 9 hours total a day (MH 7, actinic's 9). Repeat as needed. JME __________________ 120g mixed reef 90g QT

09/03/2008, 11:50 AM	#18
pledosophy Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Beaverton Posts: 5,290	IMHO removing everything to a QT tank is more harmful then going a three days at a time with no lights. then again I have no idea on how severe your algaes problems are. When I tried moving stuff to a QT tank and going dark for an extended time period, I "reinfected" the display with algae again once I put the frags back in and in no time I was back where I started. IME it is better to treat the tank as a whole. I would keep the entire tank with the corals and fish dark for three days. It has not shown to harm many corals a few acro's and some caps have faired the worst. There is a really long thread about doing the dark period on here somewhere. Give it a read. All the good and bads are in there. IME things in the tank do better during dark periods if you have a refugium to help stabalize pH, jut an observation, not a scientific finding by any stretch. DI can exhaust very quickly if it is filtering dirty water. __________________ 120g mixed reef 90g QT

09/03/2008, 06:00 PM	#21
jbird0420 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Parrish, Florida Posts: 1,079	I ordered Algaefix Marine. I heard mixed reviews on this product, for some it's worked. The majority say this product is crap. Algaefix Marine and the others that have used it say it has not or will not hurt corals or inverts. If it has not hurt there stock, maybe it might work. I personally don't like chemicals, but I have an idea... I was thinking about moving all my rock to one side of the tank. Cover the rock with black plastic and secure it down. Turn off the MH light above the black plastic for a few weeks. I will have the corals on the other side in nothing but sand. Run that MH above the corals for 6 hours and hope for the best. In that duration I can do weekly water changes and with the rock in total darkness under black plastic with no light. It may work.. What do you think?

09/03/2008, 11:50 PM	#22
prickles Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: AZ Posts: 1,138	You asked what I think. I think you're getting too complicated. Moving rockwork will just stir stuff up. Try 3 days blackout and see what happens. Don't forget the post blackout water change(s) to get those nutrients from the dissolved algae out of the system. Don't move anything, don't add any fancy chemicals. If this doesn't work, then go to the next plan. Remember corals etc experience days of dark during storm systems, so 3 days should be just fine with minimal worries.

09/04/2008, 05:48 AM	#23
Mark426 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: South Carolina Posts: 2,479	I agree with most everyone else. Turn off your lights for 3 to 4 days. BUT...you gotta figure out the root cause. I would not do any of the chemical stuff. Sounds like your going to though since you have purchased some. Dont go crazy, like the plastic, moving rock, etc. That will only screw things up ...maybe beyond repair. (ie, crash) Look...the facts are...you can get rid if the algae with the black out...but its going to come back as bad of worse than before unless you do something. Less feeding, less livestock, better skimmer, more water changes, etc. I have a feeling you need to do all of those things. Its EASY to have a algae free (or very little) tank if you do just those things and give it time. Sounds easy ...huh? Last edited by Mark426; 09/04/2008 at 06:01 AM.

09/04/2008, 07:40 PM	#24
jbird0420 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Parrish, Florida Posts: 1,079	I do 15% water changes every 2 weeks. Today I cut the MH's back 2 hours, so total 6hours of MH. I also cut my t12's back 4 hours, so total 8hours of t12s. I really don't think I'm overfeeding since, it's frozen food I prepared. It's basically a knockoff of Formula 2, w/o gel binder. The food is consumed in under 3min, any leftover, is consumed by the bottom feeders. I just checked my RO/di unit, it went from 25ppm down to 12ppm????? Like I mentioned the membrane is on it's way, I'm going to do a weekly 10% water change in the tank. I as well have new MH bulbs coming, they should be here next week sometime, unless Hurricane Ike messes things up... The fish I have.. Xmas Wrasse- which i'm thinking about selling or trading Lawnmower Blenny Maroon Clown Royal Gramma Potters Angel Inverts 3 Serpant Stars 12 Astrea Turbo snails Coral Banded Shrimp 5 or less Peppermint Shrimp 2 small sea urchins Lots of bristle worms Lots of the little bug like things crawling on the glass and nesting in the intake area???? I double checked my water parameters, test kits are new bottles say 6/08. Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0 PH 8.4 Calcium 420ppm Phos 0

09/05/2008, 08:05 AM	#25
anniesdad Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: long island, NY Posts: 93	I had a bad algae breakout. And my lawnmower wouldn't touch the stuff. I turn my photoperiod down to 3hrs. Added a purple spiny sea urchin. - he ended up doing all the heavy lifting. Cleaned it all up. Sadly, the blenny never went back to eating. Its a FOWLR.