Help quiet down my drain, PLEASE

Pheeshes · 01/06/2009, 09:45 AM

well, when i first started my tank i had a CPR overflow and it was silent. i liked it, but i was told if the power went out and the pump failed and i lost siphon i could have a flood. so i drained the tank and drilled. it's a 75 gallon if that helps.

the bottom is tempered so we drilled a hole near the top of the back glass. there bulk head that goes through is 1 inch i believe i'll have to make sure when i'm home again. it has a threaded 90 the turns up and a strainer screen on that in the tank. the back side of the bulkhead is a "T" with one end going down to the sump and the other end is capped with a hole drilled in the top.

Currently the water sound is pretty loud. i can get a video if needed since it's hard to discribe. it's almost like the water is falling through the screen and splashing into the 90 degree elbow and echoing off the top of the strainer. i've tried different size holes in the cap, leaning the elbow so the strainer isn't straight up, i've tried a mag 5 and a mag 7.5 as return pumps and i've tried throttling them back to very slow flow, all without any improvement other than almost comletely stopping flow...that made it a little quieter.

The only thing that seems to help so far is if i unscrew and remove the strainer. it's almost silent if i do that. as an experiment i also turned the strainer upside down. that was also almost silent. it seems that the only time it makes the sound is if the water has to go through the strainer. if it goes around it, trickles down it, or with it completely removed there is no sound.

does anyone have any suggestions? i've lived with it for almost a year and i'm ready to get rid of the extra noise.

Thanks

chimmike · 01/06/2009, 09:58 AM

My corner drilled tank, the drain section is a vertical standpipe up to a pair of 90's that point down towards the bottom of the pipe. There's a small hole drilled in the side of it as well as a vent line sticking out the top, but this sort of "sucks" the water up into the 90's then down to the sump, rather than let it gush and overflow into the standpipe alone. Seems to keep it fairly quiet.

the only loud area I have is the drain into the sump, but that's because I don't use a filter sock (gets too dirty too fast)

Tinkanator2000 · 01/06/2009, 10:03 AM

Try turning the 90 up inside the tank a little to one side, that helped mine a bit. Also I know the bigger the overflow pipe, the less noise it'll make.

mcoomer · 01/06/2009, 10:04 AM

Do a search for Durso Standpipe. That's what I use to quiet the waterfall noise in my overflow.

Mike

the2ofus · 01/06/2009, 10:05 AM

Tagging along,
I have the same darn noise. If I put some thing over it and it begins "sucking" the water out it's quiet..Can this screw up later?

salty joe · 01/06/2009, 10:07 AM

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/s...ow-system.aspx

I did this a few years ago using 2 pipes, it was silent. Beananimal uses 3 pipes, which provides a redundant safety. I reccomend using 3 pipes.

HTH

Pheeshes · 01/06/2009, 10:22 AM

well, i've tried rotating the 90 to either side and it didn't really help me.

i don't think a durso would work since the hole for my bulk head is near the top of the back glass.

i've been looking at the three pipe over flow, but i can't really drain the tank and silicone in an over flow. one reason being i'm pretty confident in my ability to mess up an easy silicone job. the onther being the live stock and water in the tank.

are these my only options?

J.russell · 01/06/2009, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Tinkanator2000
Also I know the bigger the overflow pipe, the less noise it'll make.

My current 2" drain isnt very quiet. Pipe Dia. doesnt matter its how and how much is flowing through that pipe.

Madfronter · 01/06/2009, 01:26 PM

After reading your post about the possibility of flooding due to a power outage. If the power goes out and your lifter pump stops running, your return pump will stop running as well, so how would your tank overflow and flood?

I personally love my CPR continuous siphon overflow. It is very quiet and more streamline compared to the gravity fed overflow boxes I've had in the past. Sorry I cant be of more help, but I had to ask the question about the flooding during a power outage.

stylolvr · 01/06/2009, 01:35 PM

I have used a 2" vertical stand pipe and cut 45 degree slits, about 2" log each and about 1/2" apart around the top section, with about 1/2" between the top of the pipe and top of the slits. It creates a vortex at the top of the pipe instead of letting it fall straight down and splashing. It could probably be done with a smaller diameter pipe, and the angle could probable be different to make it easier to cut. Good luck

Bigfishy · 01/06/2009, 01:48 PM

MadFronter If during the power out the cpr lost siphon and the power came back the cpr would not automatically prime therefore tank over flows....... and the wife screams. Pheeshes i can think of only two options for you 1. turn the 90 facing straight down this would stop the noise but the down side is there would be no surface skimming and you already have the precautions setup for a power outage. 2. you need not build a huge overflow box a small one approx 200mm X 100mm X 100mm will suffice. You will need about 24hrs for the silicone to cure and all you need is circulate both tank and filter separately for this period. hope this helps.....

Pheeshes · 01/06/2009, 01:50 PM

Well, the only way it would flood is if the power went out, then the lifter pump die or broke, and the power came back on. if those two things happen and the siphon broke it would pump the water out of the sump and into the display. it wouldnt' flood alot, but it would be enough to make a pretty good mess and once the sump ran dry the return pump would burn up. this way, with the hole drilled the water will always drain to the sump and if the power comes back and the return pump breaks them it just doesn't pump anything.

i think i'm going to try cutting up my strainer some more and see how that works. if it doen't i'll probably have to look into a threaded fitting i can cut some notches in and see how that goes. thanks for all the help so far i'll keep you posted and if anyone comes up with any other ideas let me know.

Pheeshes · 01/06/2009, 01:52 PM

if it comes to it and i have to i will try to build an overflow box just in the one corner that the hole is drilled in, but i couldn't drill any more holes without moving the tank(it's in a corner) and that really isn't an option.

mightymizz · 01/06/2009, 02:02 PM

Have you tried one of those boxes that rests inside your tank on the rim of your bulkhead? It helps even out the water going into your bulkhead and acts as a "screen" so to speak as well.

Also I have had to run airline tubing into the hole on your "T" and that has helped immensely. You have to play with how deep into your drain line you need to put it for the best results, but I needed to run the airline and not just have the hole.

Anyways you might try the airline first. Its very cheap stuff, just like you might put onto a powerhead so that it blows bubbles.

Hope that helps, it worked for me and it sounds like we have the same type of drain line.

Pheeshes · 01/06/2009, 03:52 PM

i hadn't heard of something like that box, would you have a link to what it looks like or someone that sells them? i haven't tried the air line, but maybe i will before i hack of the strainer, thanks.

K' Family Reef · 01/06/2009, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mightymizz

Also I have had to run airline tubing into the hole on your "T" and that has helped immensely. You have to play with how deep into your drain line you need to put it for the best results, but I needed to run the airline and not just have the hole.

Anyways you might try the airline first. Its very cheap stuff, just like you might put onto a powerhead so that it blows bubbles.

x2 on the airline idea

in our display fuge (50gal)
we have a T piece w/ a 90' elbow on each side - each 90' piece w/ a strainer attached (looks like 'cowhorns' - 2 strainers on each side of the T - security in case one gets clogged w/ macros etc)... it made a lot of noise until a small hole was drilled in the T section (which is submersed) then an airline hose was put down into this section... like was mentioned in the above quote have to experiment w/ how 'deep' to go w/ the airline tubing - but it does help to quiet the noise down... not as completely 'silent' as the durso o/f in the dt but overall very effective...

have thought to try putting this airline tubing
down into each of the strainers (espec as one is already drilled for it on the top/end)... used in the same way as described above... think this might work even better!

good luck.

regards

EDIT
here is a photo to make it easier... w/ what you have might try the individual strainers first (drilling hole on ends) then perhaps even on the cap of the T you have behind the tank.

K' Family Reef · 01/06/2009, 05:52 PM

http://reefercentral.com/whygl*******s.html

a link to a o/f box that was referenced in another posting earlier in this thread - these mount behind the bulkhead inside the tank... have also heard good reviews from people using these here on RC... they look good, perform great and seem to be reasonably priced.

regards

phenom5 · 01/06/2009, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Pheeshes
if it comes to it and i have to i will try to build an overflow box just in the one corner that the hole is drilled in, but i couldn't drill any more holes without moving the tank(it's in a corner) and that really isn't an option.

Personally, I think that's probably the best option, although probably not the easiest. FWIW, I have a shelf overflow with 2 1" drains, like yours but with the 90's turned down, and it's completely silent.

Here's a pic.

mightymizz · 01/06/2009, 08:06 PM

Yes, neptune's link to reefercentral shows what they look like. Many people build their own out of acrylic. They "hang" on the bulkhead rim inside the tank and also act as a screen.

The airline tubing is fed down through your T that is apart of your drain line. Experiment with how deep to put it, it really worked for me.

edit: phenom5's picture shows the "T". Im assuming you have a hole in the top of yours and that is where you would put the airline tubing.

01/06/2009, 09:45 AM	#1
Pheeshes Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 181	Help quiet down my drain, PLEASE well, when i first started my tank i had a CPR overflow and it was silent. i liked it, but i was told if the power went out and the pump failed and i lost siphon i could have a flood. so i drained the tank and drilled. it's a 75 gallon if that helps. the bottom is tempered so we drilled a hole near the top of the back glass. there bulk head that goes through is 1 inch i believe i'll have to make sure when i'm home again. it has a threaded 90 the turns up and a strainer screen on that in the tank. the back side of the bulkhead is a "T" with one end going down to the sump and the other end is capped with a hole drilled in the top. Currently the water sound is pretty loud. i can get a video if needed since it's hard to discribe. it's almost like the water is falling through the screen and splashing into the 90 degree elbow and echoing off the top of the strainer. i've tried different size holes in the cap, leaning the elbow so the strainer isn't straight up, i've tried a mag 5 and a mag 7.5 as return pumps and i've tried throttling them back to very slow flow, all without any improvement other than almost comletely stopping flow...that made it a little quieter. The only thing that seems to help so far is if i unscrew and remove the strainer. it's almost silent if i do that. as an experiment i also turned the strainer upside down. that was also almost silent. it seems that the only time it makes the sound is if the water has to go through the strainer. if it goes around it, trickles down it, or with it completely removed there is no sound. does anyone have any suggestions? i've lived with it for almost a year and i'm ready to get rid of the extra noise. Thanks

01/06/2009, 10:04 AM	#4
mcoomer Rat Bastard! Join Date: May 2007 Location: Sammamish, WA Posts: 1,487	Do a search for Durso Standpipe. That's what I use to quiet the waterfall noise in my overflow. Mike __________________ Spending exorbitant amounts of money on this hobby since 1998! My wife thought the tank would be cheaper and easier to keep than a dog...no seriously! Current Tank Info: 180 gallon mixed reef; Reeflo Barracuda, Tunze 6105 (X3), 250W Radiums with dual HQI Blue Wave 7, Reefkeeper Elite controller, custom sump with ASM G4, carbon and GFO reactors

01/06/2009, 10:05 AM	#5
the2ofus Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Clarion, PA Posts: 725	Tagging along, I have the same darn noise. If I put some thing over it and it begins "sucking" the water out it's quiet..Can this screw up later? __________________ ~Matt & Kim~ Current Tank Info: 75 gal reef. w/ 30gal. sump/refugium,g-2 skimmer, t-5 lighting

01/06/2009, 01:35 PM	#10
stylolvr Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Longwood, FL Posts: 734	I have used a 2" vertical stand pipe and cut 45 degree slits, about 2" log each and about 1/2" apart around the top section, with about 1/2" between the top of the pipe and top of the slits. It creates a vortex at the top of the pipe instead of letting it fall straight down and splashing. It could probably be done with a smaller diameter pipe, and the angle could probable be different to make it easier to cut. Good luck __________________ Some call it a hobby, others an obsession. I just call it good, clean fun! Current Tank Info: Acquiring equipment for a Waterbox 20 Cube mixed reef

01/06/2009, 01:48 PM	#11
Bigfishy Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Next to Zim Posts: 9	MadFronter If during the power out the cpr lost siphon and the power came back the cpr would not automatically prime therefore tank over flows....... and the wife screams. Pheeshes i can think of only two options for you 1. turn the 90 facing straight down this would stop the noise but the down side is there would be no surface skimming and you already have the precautions setup for a power outage. 2. you need not build a huge overflow box a small one approx 200mm X 100mm X 100mm will suffice. You will need about 24hrs for the silicone to cure and all you need is circulate both tank and filter separately for this period. hope this helps..... __________________ Has anyone found Nemo yet Current Tank Info: Under Construction

01/06/2009, 09:58 AM	#2
chimmike oxygen abuser Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Parrish, FL Posts: 5,089 Blog Entries: 2	My corner drilled tank, the drain section is a vertical standpipe up to a pair of 90's that point down towards the bottom of the pipe. There's a small hole drilled in the side of it as well as a vent line sticking out the top, but this sort of "sucks" the water up into the 90's then down to the sump, rather than let it gush and overflow into the standpipe alone. Seems to keep it fairly quiet. the only loud area I have is the drain into the sump, but that's because I don't use a filter sock (gets too dirty too fast)

01/06/2009, 10:03 AM	#3
Tinkanator2000 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Maryland Posts: 168	Try turning the 90 up inside the tank a little to one side, that helped mine a bit. Also I know the bigger the overflow pipe, the less noise it'll make.

01/06/2009, 10:07 AM	#6
salty joe Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: medina, ohio Posts: 2,419	http://www.beananimal.com/projects/s...ow-system.aspx I did this a few years ago using 2 pipes, it was silent. Beananimal uses 3 pipes, which provides a redundant safety. I reccomend using 3 pipes. HTH

01/06/2009, 10:22 AM	#7
Pheeshes Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 181	well, i've tried rotating the 90 to either side and it didn't really help me. i don't think a durso would work since the hole for my bulk head is near the top of the back glass. i've been looking at the three pipe over flow, but i can't really drain the tank and silicone in an over flow. one reason being i'm pretty confident in my ability to mess up an easy silicone job. the onther being the live stock and water in the tank. are these my only options?

01/06/2009, 01:26 PM	#9
Madfronter Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: PA Posts: 284	After reading your post about the possibility of flooding due to a power outage. If the power goes out and your lifter pump stops running, your return pump will stop running as well, so how would your tank overflow and flood? I personally love my CPR continuous siphon overflow. It is very quiet and more streamline compared to the gravity fed overflow boxes I've had in the past. Sorry I cant be of more help, but I had to ask the question about the flooding during a power outage.

01/06/2009, 01:50 PM	#12
Pheeshes Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 181	Well, the only way it would flood is if the power went out, then the lifter pump die or broke, and the power came back on. if those two things happen and the siphon broke it would pump the water out of the sump and into the display. it wouldnt' flood alot, but it would be enough to make a pretty good mess and once the sump ran dry the return pump would burn up. this way, with the hole drilled the water will always drain to the sump and if the power comes back and the return pump breaks them it just doesn't pump anything. i think i'm going to try cutting up my strainer some more and see how that works. if it doen't i'll probably have to look into a threaded fitting i can cut some notches in and see how that goes. thanks for all the help so far i'll keep you posted and if anyone comes up with any other ideas let me know.

01/06/2009, 01:52 PM	#13
Pheeshes Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 181	if it comes to it and i have to i will try to build an overflow box just in the one corner that the hole is drilled in, but i couldn't drill any more holes without moving the tank(it's in a corner) and that really isn't an option.

01/06/2009, 02:02 PM	#14
mightymizz Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Oregon Posts: 304	Have you tried one of those boxes that rests inside your tank on the rim of your bulkhead? It helps even out the water going into your bulkhead and acts as a "screen" so to speak as well. Also I have had to run airline tubing into the hole on your "T" and that has helped immensely. You have to play with how deep into your drain line you need to put it for the best results, but I needed to run the airline and not just have the hole. Anyways you might try the airline first. Its very cheap stuff, just like you might put onto a powerhead so that it blows bubbles. Hope that helps, it worked for me and it sounds like we have the same type of drain line.

01/06/2009, 03:52 PM	#15
Pheeshes Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 181	i hadn't heard of something like that box, would you have a link to what it looks like or someone that sells them? i haven't tried the air line, but maybe i will before i hack of the strainer, thanks.

01/06/2009, 05:52 PM	#17
K' Family Reef Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,966	http://reefercentral.com/whygl*******s.html a link to a o/f box that was referenced in another posting earlier in this thread - these mount behind the bulkhead inside the tank... have also heard good reviews from people using these here on RC... they look good, perform great and seem to be reasonably priced. regards

01/06/2009, 08:06 PM	#19
mightymizz Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Oregon Posts: 304	Yes, neptune's link to reefercentral shows what they look like. Many people build their own out of acrylic. They "hang" on the bulkhead rim inside the tank and also act as a screen. The airline tubing is fed down through your T that is apart of your drain line. Experiment with how deep to put it, it really worked for me. edit: phenom5's picture shows the "T". Im assuming you have a hole in the top of yours and that is where you would put the airline tubing.