my first RO/DI questions.

Ichyface · 01/09/2009, 09:37 PM

How do I know my RO membrane needs to be changed? I bought a used one and know all the fillters are going to be changed along with the DI resin, but im not sure about the membrane. Its never been dry (as far as he said) it was still hooked up when I got there, but there was no pressure in it, does that matter?
Also my water pressure guage only says 25lbs when its running, sould I leave pressure on it all the time? I have city water I dont understand why its so low. Its hooked up right, I checked on their website.
I made some water took it to LFS to test TDS and it came out to 4-5, but my TDS meter on unit said 0-1, so how do I calibrate, do i need a solution?
I should have just bought a new one, buy the time I buy all of the filters (and membrane) I could have bought a new one.

Its from "The Filter Guys" the ocean reef model.

Ichyface · 01/09/2009, 10:16 PM

anyone?

reefworm · 01/09/2009, 10:27 PM

I would go to http://www.thefilterguys.biz/ and ask them directly about readings, backflushing directions, etc. to be sure of everything

jim.l · 01/09/2009, 10:29 PM

If the RO membrane was allowed to dry out it's no good anymore. If it was kept wet it could be ok, ..... maybe. Why don't you try and contact AZDesertRat. He seems to be one of the resident experts here.

Playa-1 · 01/09/2009, 10:48 PM

You can test and track the RO tds before it get to the DI resin. When the tds begins to rise you know that the membrane is on the decline.

Its never been dry (as far as he said) it was still hooked up when I got there, but there was no pressure in it, does that matter?
It doesn't matter that much, many people pull their RO/DI unit out of a closet and stick it on their water hose or sink when they need to make water. If it was sitting in the garage collecting cobb webs for 6 months then it's probably shot but it it's been a couple weeks since it was used then it's probably fine.

Also my water pressure guage only says 25lbs when its running
If your city pressure is that low and you can't increase it by opening the valve a little at the street then you might need to buy a booster pump for your RO/DI unit so that it can operate efficiently.

sould I leave pressure on it all the time?
I do because I have it hooked up to a float valve on my brute container but many people disconnect them between use. I don't think it makes that much difference.

I made some water took it to LFS to test TDS and it came out to 4-5, but my TDS meter on unit said 0-1, so how do I calibrate, do i need a solution?
These little inline meters are not known for their pinpoint accuracy. I wouldn't worry about it too much but if you feel the need, then invest in a handheld tds meter. You should be able to pick one up for $20. I think I own a couple that I never use

.

I made some water took it to LFS to test TDS and it came out to 4-5, but my TDS meter on unit said 0-1, so how do I calibrate, do i need a solution?
I would say their TDS meter is suspect too

, I don't know that those little inline meters can be calibrated by the end user.

I should have just bought a new one, buy the time I buy all of the filters (and membrane) I could have bought a new one.
Hindsight is 20/20, The amount of wear and tear on the equipment and filters is something that should have been considered carefully before negotiating the price of the used equipment. It's like buying a house that needs a new electrical system, plumbing and a roof. It doesn't really matter at this point. The unit will pay for itself over and over. I wouldn't worry about it for a second.

Many times the RO membrane alone will not bring the TDS to 0, but with good DI resin it will bring it down to 0.

Flipper62 · 01/10/2009, 12:09 AM

Playa-1........I like you & your a good guy.......However thats a lot of typing just to say ( In my opinion )

1 - used ro/di unit........Buy all new filters to start.

2 - Com-100 TDS portable meter to check the true TDS

3 - By the time you spend the money to get the used RO/DI up & working......you COULD have bought a new unit

Why not just get a NEW....Ocean Reef +1 from the filterguys for $199.00

This way you know what you have & know where you are starting from.

Please...If I missed your point, please tell me...ALL is good

Playa-1 · 01/10/2009, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Flipper62
Playa-1........I like you & your a good guy.......However thats a lot of typing just to say ( In my opinion )

IMHO, Sometimes I get carried away

Flipper62 · 01/10/2009, 01:09 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Playa-1
IMHO, Sometimes I get carried away

Playa -1 .....DECAF.....DECAF

Your cracking me up

Buckeye Hydro · 01/10/2009, 06:06 AM

The other thing to think about with used units is that the first round of filter changes (often right when you buy the used system) is a good time to sanitize it. Once a year or more often after that.

Russ

Ichyface · 01/10/2009, 09:07 AM

Anybody want to buy a used RO/DI? lol

It seemed like a good deal at the time but I think he messed with the cal to make it read 001-000 when got there.

He said its a year old but he only ran 150 gal though it but the DI resin is changing colors. (a year old and he said i dont need to change filters)

I gave him 100 bucks for this thing and either he is really dumb, or he ripped me off.

Buckeye Hydro · 01/10/2009, 09:21 AM

There are lots of people we talk to who hook their systems up and then really forget about them - so they have trouble answering questions about their filter change schedule, tds, filter specs, etc.

In the vein of "I'm OK, You're OK," he probably wasn't dumb and let's hope not dishonest - just one of those people who didn't pay much attention to their RODI.

Buying used RODI systems can be a mixed bag - buyers often aren't really clear on what they are buying, or on the history of the system (e.g., the last filter chnage, or filter specs), and often don't get a set of instructions.

The configuration of that system is OK (I'd argue it has one too many carbon prefilter stages for normal/typical conditions, but no harm done other than to your wallet), but you have a decent system to start with. You just may need to clean it, replace some/all filters/resin, and get any other add ons (e.g., float valve, booster pump) that make sense to get the system set up the way you want it.

If you are not sure how you "want it," we'd be happy to talk through that with you if you'd like to call in.

Russ

Ichyface · 01/10/2009, 09:51 AM

That would be cool I think i nee to know things like what each type of filter does exactly and what filters tha would make a good "line up" since there is a few to choose from.

Buckeye Hydro · 01/10/2009, 04:01 PM

Are you on city water or well water?

If city water, do you have chloramines in the water?

There are a few potental causes for your low (25 psi) water pressure: 1) less than ideal hook up to your plumbing, 2) clogged prefilters, and 3) plain old low line pressure.

Ichyface · 01/11/2009, 01:53 AM

I have city water and I used a saddle valve to hook up the unit. by chloramines do you mean chlorine? I like 25-30 ppm for chorine

Buckeye Hydro · 01/11/2009, 04:53 AM

Those self piercing needle valves can sometimes be problematic in not allowing enough flow, So make sure you drove the needle in far enough to make the largest diameter hole it can, and then open it up to try to get full flow.

Chloramines are chlorine+ammonia. Give your water utility a call and ask them what they use for a disinfectant.

Ichyface · 01/12/2009, 01:50 PM

ok I'll do that

01/09/2009, 09:37 PM	#1
Ichyface Moved On Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Arnold, Mo Posts: 104	my first RO/DI questions. How do I know my RO membrane needs to be changed? I bought a used one and know all the fillters are going to be changed along with the DI resin, but im not sure about the membrane. Its never been dry (as far as he said) it was still hooked up when I got there, but there was no pressure in it, does that matter? Also my water pressure guage only says 25lbs when its running, sould I leave pressure on it all the time? I have city water I dont understand why its so low. Its hooked up right, I checked on their website. I made some water took it to LFS to test TDS and it came out to 4-5, but my TDS meter on unit said 0-1, so how do I calibrate, do i need a solution? I should have just bought a new one, buy the time I buy all of the filters (and membrane) I could have bought a new one. Its from "The Filter Guys" the ocean reef model. Last edited by Ichyface; 01/09/2009 at 10:06 PM.

01/09/2009, 10:27 PM	#3
reefworm Registered Member Join Date: May 2000 Location: Waxhaw, NC USA Posts: 2,139	I would go to http://www.thefilterguys.biz/ and ask them directly about readings, backflushing directions, etc. to be sure of everything __________________ "The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation with the average voter." - Thomas Jefferson Current Tank Info: 29 gal. reef/assist with 75 gal. at the school

01/09/2009, 10:29 PM	#4
jim.l Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: SE. Florida Posts: 608	If the RO membrane was allowed to dry out it's no good anymore. If it was kept wet it could be ok, ..... maybe. Why don't you try and contact AZDesertRat. He seems to be one of the resident experts here. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 150 reef, soft, hard, SPS

01/10/2009, 12:09 AM	#6
Flipper62 Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Naperville, Il. Business Owner, President & CEO Posts: 3,045	Playa-1........I like you & your a good guy.......However thats a lot of typing just to say ( In my opinion ) 1 - used ro/di unit........Buy all new filters to start. 2 - Com-100 TDS portable meter to check the true TDS 3 - By the time you spend the money to get the used RO/DI up & working......you COULD have bought a new unit Why not just get a NEW....Ocean Reef +1 from the filterguys for $199.00 This way you know what you have & know where you are starting from. Please...If I missed your point, please tell me...ALL is good __________________ If todays automobile had followed the same development as the computer, A Rolls Royce would cost $100.00. It would get a million miles per gallon, but it would explode once a year killing everyone inside." Current Tanks... 90 gal Reef... My awesome Office BioCube....( 180 was on hold ..no time ) ... The 180 gal has been sold...Yay..yay..yay. Hobby Experience: 19 years Reef...22 years FW

01/09/2009, 10:16 PM	#2
Ichyface Moved On Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Arnold, Mo Posts: 104	anyone?

01/09/2009, 10:48 PM	#5
Playa-1 Moved On Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Laguna Niguel, CA Posts: 7,497	You can test and track the RO tds before it get to the DI resin. When the tds begins to rise you know that the membrane is on the decline. Its never been dry (as far as he said) it was still hooked up when I got there, but there was no pressure in it, does that matter? It doesn't matter that much, many people pull their RO/DI unit out of a closet and stick it on their water hose or sink when they need to make water. If it was sitting in the garage collecting cobb webs for 6 months then it's probably shot but it it's been a couple weeks since it was used then it's probably fine. Also my water pressure guage only says 25lbs when its running If your city pressure is that low and you can't increase it by opening the valve a little at the street then you might need to buy a booster pump for your RO/DI unit so that it can operate efficiently. sould I leave pressure on it all the time? I do because I have it hooked up to a float valve on my brute container but many people disconnect them between use. I don't think it makes that much difference. I made some water took it to LFS to test TDS and it came out to 4-5, but my TDS meter on unit said 0-1, so how do I calibrate, do i need a solution? These little inline meters are not known for their pinpoint accuracy. I wouldn't worry about it too much but if you feel the need, then invest in a handheld tds meter. You should be able to pick one up for $20. I think I own a couple that I never use . I made some water took it to LFS to test TDS and it came out to 4-5, but my TDS meter on unit said 0-1, so how do I calibrate, do i need a solution? I would say their TDS meter is suspect too , I don't know that those little inline meters can be calibrated by the end user. I should have just bought a new one, buy the time I buy all of the filters (and membrane) I could have bought a new one. Hindsight is 20/20, The amount of wear and tear on the equipment and filters is something that should have been considered carefully before negotiating the price of the used equipment. It's like buying a house that needs a new electrical system, plumbing and a roof. It doesn't really matter at this point. The unit will pay for itself over and over. I wouldn't worry about it for a second. Many times the RO membrane alone will not bring the TDS to 0, but with good DI resin it will bring it down to 0.

01/10/2009, 06:06 AM	#9
Buckeye Hydro .Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 4,857	The other thing to think about with used units is that the first round of filter changes (often right when you buy the used system) is a good time to sanitize it. Once a year or more often after that. Russ

01/10/2009, 09:07 AM	#10
Ichyface Moved On Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Arnold, Mo Posts: 104	Anybody want to buy a used RO/DI? lol It seemed like a good deal at the time but I think he messed with the cal to make it read 001-000 when got there. He said its a year old but he only ran 150 gal though it but the DI resin is changing colors. (a year old and he said i dont need to change filters) I gave him 100 bucks for this thing and either he is really dumb, or he ripped me off.

01/10/2009, 09:21 AM	#11
Buckeye Hydro .Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 4,857	There are lots of people we talk to who hook their systems up and then really forget about them - so they have trouble answering questions about their filter change schedule, tds, filter specs, etc. In the vein of "I'm OK, You're OK," he probably wasn't dumb and let's hope not dishonest - just one of those people who didn't pay much attention to their RODI. Buying used RODI systems can be a mixed bag - buyers often aren't really clear on what they are buying, or on the history of the system (e.g., the last filter chnage, or filter specs), and often don't get a set of instructions. The configuration of that system is OK (I'd argue it has one too many carbon prefilter stages for normal/typical conditions, but no harm done other than to your wallet), but you have a decent system to start with. You just may need to clean it, replace some/all filters/resin, and get any other add ons (e.g., float valve, booster pump) that make sense to get the system set up the way you want it. If you are not sure how you "want it," we'd be happy to talk through that with you if you'd like to call in. Russ

01/10/2009, 09:51 AM	#12
Ichyface Moved On Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Arnold, Mo Posts: 104	That would be cool I think i nee to know things like what each type of filter does exactly and what filters tha would make a good "line up" since there is a few to choose from.

01/10/2009, 04:01 PM	#13
Buckeye Hydro .Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 4,857	Are you on city water or well water? If city water, do you have chloramines in the water? There are a few potental causes for your low (25 psi) water pressure: 1) less than ideal hook up to your plumbing, 2) clogged prefilters, and 3) plain old low line pressure.

01/11/2009, 01:53 AM	#14
Ichyface Moved On Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Arnold, Mo Posts: 104	I have city water and I used a saddle valve to hook up the unit. by chloramines do you mean chlorine? I like 25-30 ppm for chorine

01/11/2009, 04:53 AM	#15
Buckeye Hydro .Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 4,857	Those self piercing needle valves can sometimes be problematic in not allowing enough flow, So make sure you drove the needle in far enough to make the largest diameter hole it can, and then open it up to try to get full flow. Chloramines are chlorine+ammonia. Give your water utility a call and ask them what they use for a disinfectant.

01/12/2009, 01:50 PM	#16
Ichyface Moved On Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Arnold, Mo Posts: 104	ok I'll do that