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01/16/2009, 05:24 PM | #1 |
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pH during cycling
My current levels are pH 8.6, Ammonia .25 and nitrite .3, carbonate 12dKH after about a week of initializing the cycle with some food and a dead shrimp.
Shouldn't my pH be within acceptable range even during cycling? If so, how should I go about fixing it. Thanks |
01/16/2009, 06:09 PM | #2 | |
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Re: pH during cycling
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As it is only a week and I do not use any more ph additive. The ammonia has not gone down too. The good things that need to grow in the water and sand bed takes time to eat the ammonia and nitrites needs to cycle 4 -6 weeks. |
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01/16/2009, 06:24 PM | #3 |
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Hi,
I started with a pH of 7. 0, a couple of days later it was 7.2, amonia was .25 and nitrite .3. Now it's 8.6/.25/.3. Should I do something to bring the pH down or just let it go? Obviously the tank is still cycling but I want to know if the high pH will inhibit the needed bacterial growth(s). Thanks |
01/17/2009, 04:50 AM | #4 | |
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What you did not say salinity it needs to be 1.023 to 1.026. You said ph started at 7.0 then 7.2 is this the water from sink or tank? The high ph it will go down to close to 8.2 by itself for cycling. Now when you do this you have to not add anything let it go. Do not add anything but add freshwater to make up for evaporation.what is your temp that is important be at 78-80. What are you using to for PH, ALK, and DKH to put in the water? I ask if you add too much it will make the others go up. Do you have rock in the tank and how deep is the sand 3-5" you need to have these in the tank to help cycle. Last edited by fishtk75; 01/17/2009 at 05:15 AM. |
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01/17/2009, 05:06 AM | #5 |
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during the cycle there are going to be a lot of changes occurring so i wouldn't bother monitoring ph or you could end up tearing your hair out trying to add this or change that and balance out a parameter that's going to end up stabilizing on it's own in a few weeks. once the cycle is over, do a few tests and see where you're at. you should be fine at that point.
make sure that you mix your saltwater properly; use rodi water and test with a refractometer, add salt to water not the other way around, aerate and mix new saltwater for 24hrs then test and adjust as necessary. make sure you keep your tank topped off to maintain proper salinity.
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order some golf shoes, otherwise we'll never get out of this place alive. what can i say? in dog beers, i have only had one. - dublo8 Current Tank Info: 40B aiptasia farm |
01/17/2009, 08:10 AM | #6 |
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Reply to last 2 posters
Hi,
Thank you both for the great information. Very helpful. In response - my salinity is within range so I didn't mention it in this post - but YES - I do need to get a refractometer. Those plastic toys are all but useless. It's just a 10 gal tank. I have a 3" DSB and 14lbs of live rock and a Chaetomorpha plant. Seems to be doing fine. Should I aerate during this period, or later, or never? Thanks |
01/17/2009, 08:19 AM | #7 |
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if there's sufficient water movement, including surface agitation, that's all you should need to worry about re: aeration of the tank.
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order some golf shoes, otherwise we'll never get out of this place alive. what can i say? in dog beers, i have only had one. - dublo8 Current Tank Info: 40B aiptasia farm |
01/17/2009, 03:15 PM | #8 | |
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Re: Reply to last 2 posters
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01/17/2009, 05:08 PM | #9 |
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In the summer I use a spoon. In the winter I use my 25hp Mercury Outboard. (-;
Seriously though, I bought one of those little submersible water pumps - Koralia. Perfect for this size tank. I have another question: How do you store pre-made salt water? I will put a heater in the bucket to get it to the same temp as my tank, but should I keep an aerator in there or another water pump/jet? Thanks |
01/17/2009, 05:10 PM | #10 |
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i keep a weed wacker handy and run it in the bucket for about half an hour. no, really, i use a small powerhead and a heater in the new water.
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order some golf shoes, otherwise we'll never get out of this place alive. what can i say? in dog beers, i have only had one. - dublo8 Current Tank Info: 40B aiptasia farm |
01/17/2009, 06:23 PM | #11 |
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Gas or electric?
Do you keep the heater and powerhead on 24/7? Is it better to make up the water and keep it for a week or two or even more, or just make it up a day or two before you plan to do a partial change? Thanks |
01/17/2009, 06:28 PM | #12 |
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electric, i don't want to risk gas contamination.
i keep it heated and circulated for around 24 hours before use to make sure everything is dissolved and it's been 'aged'. test with a refractometer and thermometer to make sure salinity and temp match up and you're good to go after that time.
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order some golf shoes, otherwise we'll never get out of this place alive. what can i say? in dog beers, i have only had one. - dublo8 Current Tank Info: 40B aiptasia farm |
01/17/2009, 06:55 PM | #13 |
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Thanks. I kind of figured that but I wasn't sure if the water would deteriorate or maybe become de-oxygenated so much it would be unuseable.
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01/17/2009, 07:44 PM | #14 |
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I've read here somewhere that after you make the mix it will keep without heat or movement, as long as it is clean and unused.
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01/17/2009, 08:22 PM | #15 |
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i've read that as well. if i recall correctly it is still advisable to aerate before you add it to the tank though.
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order some golf shoes, otherwise we'll never get out of this place alive. what can i say? in dog beers, i have only had one. - dublo8 Current Tank Info: 40B aiptasia farm |
01/18/2009, 06:22 AM | #16 | |
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There is a good link to read. http://faq.thekrib.com/sbegin-longterm.html |
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