help with canister filter/sump and opinions

[kurquhart1]

i recently purchased a bigger tank but it is currently not set up. being new to this hobby i wanted to buy it because it was a steal and thought id do the research on filtration. my new tank is 5 feet long and 2 feet wide. i got a stand along with it as well as a light fixture. it is not reef ready.

what type of filtration should i use. i love the idea of a sump and i can turn my 30 gal into one but i havent measured yet to see if it will fit in my stand. i also am not sure because im not the greatest handyman either. i have no idea how to build them all i know is i would find someone who cuts glass or whatever material is used and then id glue it myself. i am also renting so it needs to be something that if i ever need to move i can take down fairly easily. my stand also does not have doors and i have 2 small children that like to explore things so im not so sure a sump is a great idea.

i have also been looking at canister filters. can anyone comment on how well they work? also will there be alot of pipes sitting inside my tank? im assuming it would be just 2.

can anyone provide me with any links to pics of pipes from canister filters in the tank so i can see what it looks like or point me in the direction to that or sumps and do it yourself articles that are for beginners.


thank you and sorry this is lengthy!

[kurquhart1]

anyone?

[CStoner]

Kurq, I'm new here too. I think you'll find alot of your answers if you search the forums and read what others are saying about building a new tank.

I have a canister filter, but I am just using it to clear my murky water. I think if you're going with live rock, you won't really need a fancy filter. Depends on what you wanna do with this tank.

But like I said... I'm new too. Good luck.

[Jaded_Falcon]

I would recommend building some doors and getting a sump. Otherwise you will have a lot of other stuff in your tank. It's not just the canister filter in there. Heater, skimmer pump and return, powerheads, reactors (if you want'em), alot can end up in there. Better IMO to move the clutter to the sump. And with a 30, you will have room for a refugium in there too. You can get your tank drilled (best option) or use a syphon overflow.

[Jason Donohoe]

I would very strongly recommend building a sump and closing in the stand. In the last 6 months I built a sump for my tank and now wish I had done it a long, long time ago.

Here is a link to the first of 3 helpful articles:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-01/gt/index.php

If you go to RK magazine and search for 'sump' you will get a lot of hits.

Good luck!

[Jason Donohoe]

Hey, just noticed that you ride and you live down the road.

Cheers!

[kurquhart1]

thanks alot guys for the comments. the only issue im having is trying to find out where i can get holes drilled for these 2 tanks. i dont really trust myself doing it. i dont wanna break my tank.

[Jason Donohoe]

I was in a similar situation. The DT was up and running so drilling it was not really an option and I was unable to find anyone in the area willing to drill an intact tank (for the sump). I avoided the drilling issue by using an overflow box. This uses a siphon to carry water over the back of the tank and down to the sump.

This brand seems to be a popular one here on RC.

http://www.lifereef.com/frame.html

I contacted him by email and they do ship to Canada. Unfortunately, I didn't find out about them until mine was already up and running.

From the sump you can use a submersible return pump rather than an external one, eliminating the need to drill the sump tank.

[kurquhart1]

wow thank you for the help im gonna check that out.

1 question though, what happens if power goes out? do you get a flood?

[Jason Donohoe]

The idea behind the overflow box is that when power is off the flow stops but the siphon is maintained. When power is re-established flow resumes. Lifereefs claim to fame (as I understand it) is that the siphon does not fail, period.

When you set up your sump you need to leave room to accomodate water flowing back down to it until the siphon breaks. I have 2 holes drilled in the return line aprox 1/2" below the surface. When I shut off the power water drains back until air enters through these holes and breaks the siphon. When no water is being pumped up to the tank none will go through the overflow. I think aprox 2 gallons runs back into the sump when the power is turned off. Some people advocate having the return head just below the surface instead of air holes for the same reason. I do both as I am paranoid of a flood. My tank is no the third floor of the house!

[seapug]

Long-term, you will be much happier with a sump, especially on a tank that large. It will allow you to hide all your equipment (heaters, protein skimmers, etc.) beneath the tank and, since water will be skimmed from the surface into the overflow, the tank will tend to stay cleaner and healthier, overall. Building a sump is a simple matter. Baffles are helpful in creating a separated refugium area, but not required.

If you can't drill the tank, use the HOB overflow as suggested. The continuous siphon U-tube types (ones that do NOT require a lift pump) are very reliable. When the power goes out, you will get a back-siphon to the sump. Check valves and siphon breaks will inevitably fail, so leaving enough room in the sump to accommodate the back siphon is your only guarantee you will not have a flood in a power outage.

[Andystl]

Plus one for lifereef, great product if you don't want to drill your tank.