New to the Hobby

KaOzGrUnT · 05/14/2009, 02:06 PM

Greetings to everyone, I just wanted to introduce my self, I've had a 75 gallon bow front for about a year filled with 80 lbs of live sand (argonite) and about 60 lbs of live rock (fiji and tonga), Pro 200 wet/dry filter with external overflow box and in sump skimmer, a mag drive 9 capable of 950 gph, also have a Fluval 405 with live rock, carbon and media in it's internal compartments.
-A couple percula clown fish (Amphiporion percula) they are inseparable
-Gold spotted rabbit fish or foxface fish (Signanus Guttatus)
-Bi color blenny (Ecsenius bicolor)
-Red Mandarin (Female) (Pterosynchiropus splendidus var.)
-Flame angelfish (Centropyge loriculus)
-Firefish (Nemateleotris magnifica)
-2 Emerald crab
-Hermit crab
-Slug (Chromodoris Africana)
I haven't intruduce any corals yet because for lighting all I have is a power compact, waiting to get metal halides.

Nitrate is kind of high, that's why I added the Fluval and some Nitrate remover last night... we'll see how that goes.

Any advice on the metal halides, uv sterilizers, phosban reactors?
Bio balls--- good or bad?

Whys · 05/14/2009, 02:31 PM

Bioballs bad. Wet/dry bad. Are you saying you have liverock in your canister? If so, put it in the sump. Canisters can become nitrate factories in a reef aquarium and are typically used for only temporary applications of things like carbon.

You're going to want at least a 250w-MH with some actinics to supplement, or possibly a 400w if you're interested in SPS corals.

UV is usually not necessary.

cobra2326 · 05/14/2009, 02:32 PM

T5 will also work for lighting and is my personal preference.

Whys · 05/14/2009, 02:42 PM

T5 runs a LOT cooler, but MH penetrates deeper and often produces a desirable shimmer effect on sand and rock from ripples on the surface.

imcosmokramer · 05/14/2009, 04:34 PM

whoa, let's slow down.

You have plenty of choices when it comes to lighting. You could do a nice 6 or 8 bulb T5 fixture with slr which would allow you to keep any corals you want in your tank (just search for T5 tanks on the sps forum).

You can certainly get 2x150w MH and supplement them with some T5's

You can also get 2x250w MH and supplement them with T5's (which is what I do)

I can't see a reason to get 400w's on a 75, that is way overkill, and you'll deal with heat issues (plus, it's just not a very deep tank).

Before we get to that, tell us more about your setup. What are you using for flow in your tank (powerheads)? what skimmer are you using? are you growing macro in your sump (if not, you should, it will help with water quality)?

A reactor to run gfo and carbon is a good idea (look at Bulk Reef Supply or 2 Two little Fishies daisy chained).

You don't need a UV Sterilizer. You money can be better spent somewhere else.

ask away

05/14/2009, 02:06 PM	#1
KaOzGrUnT Registered Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: New York City Posts: 10	New to the Hobby Greetings to everyone, I just wanted to introduce my self, I've had a 75 gallon bow front for about a year filled with 80 lbs of live sand (argonite) and about 60 lbs of live rock (fiji and tonga), Pro 200 wet/dry filter with external overflow box and in sump skimmer, a mag drive 9 capable of 950 gph, also have a Fluval 405 with live rock, carbon and media in it's internal compartments. -A couple percula clown fish (Amphiporion percula) they are inseparable -Gold spotted rabbit fish or foxface fish (Signanus Guttatus) -Bi color blenny (Ecsenius bicolor) -Red Mandarin (Female) (Pterosynchiropus splendidus var.) -Flame angelfish (Centropyge loriculus) -Firefish (Nemateleotris magnifica) -2 Emerald crab -Hermit crab -Slug (Chromodoris Africana) I haven't intruduce any corals yet because for lighting all I have is a power compact, waiting to get metal halides. Nitrate is kind of high, that's why I added the Fluval and some Nitrate remover last night... we'll see how that goes. Any advice on the metal halides, uv sterilizers, phosban reactors? Bio balls--- good or bad?

05/14/2009, 02:32 PM	#3
cobra2326 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Spring Hill, FL Posts: 563	T5 will also work for lighting and is my personal preference. __________________ Jon Aquatic Log: http://www.aquaticlog.com/aquariums/cobra2326/1 Nuvo Fusion Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2636370 Current Tank Info: Nuvo Fusion 10

05/14/2009, 04:34 PM	#5
imcosmokramer Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 1,709	whoa, let's slow down. You have plenty of choices when it comes to lighting. You could do a nice 6 or 8 bulb T5 fixture with slr which would allow you to keep any corals you want in your tank (just search for T5 tanks on the sps forum). You can certainly get 2x150w MH and supplement them with some T5's You can also get 2x250w MH and supplement them with T5's (which is what I do) I can't see a reason to get 400w's on a 75, that is way overkill, and you'll deal with heat issues (plus, it's just not a very deep tank). Before we get to that, tell us more about your setup. What are you using for flow in your tank (powerheads)? what skimmer are you using? are you growing macro in your sump (if not, you should, it will help with water quality)? A reactor to run gfo and carbon is a good idea (look at Bulk Reef Supply or 2 Two little Fishies daisy chained). You don't need a UV Sterilizer. You money can be better spent somewhere else. ask away __________________ You can agree with me, or you can be wrong. You pick.

05/14/2009, 02:31 PM	#2
Whys Moved On Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Spokane, WA Posts: 3,263	Bioballs bad. Wet/dry bad. Are you saying you have liverock in your canister? If so, put it in the sump. Canisters can become nitrate factories in a reef aquarium and are typically used for only temporary applications of things like carbon. You're going to want at least a 250w-MH with some actinics to supplement, or possibly a 400w if you're interested in SPS corals. UV is usually not necessary.

05/14/2009, 02:42 PM	#4
Whys Moved On Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Spokane, WA Posts: 3,263	T5 runs a LOT cooler, but MH penetrates deeper and often produces a desirable shimmer effect on sand and rock from ripples on the surface.