New lighting for 100G

CBMullen · 06/08/2009, 09:41 AM

I am going to be starting up another DT in the very new future and need some help deciding on the lighting. I want to keep a variety of corals but mainly SPS. I like more of a blue look to my tank than a 10k type spectrum. I favor intense color over faster growth.

100g Long: 72x18x17

Current Ideas for Lighting
Option 1: AIT 8x80 T5 with Aqua blue and blue+ and most likely a pro color somewhere. This is only a 60" fixture so I think if I mount the fixture towards one side and use the lower light area to put my collection of LPS or rics/zoas.

Option 2: 2x250 MH with 20k Radiums or XM bulbs with supplemental actinic and T5 with 1 icecap 660 ballast running 4- 24" bulbs and another 660 running 3 or 4-36" bulbs depending on what I can fit in the canopy. MH would be located left and right of center with T5 retro around the rim of the tank and dead center location.

Let me know what you all think of both of these options.
Currently leaning toward option 2 but like the T5 for the low heat factor. Trying to find the balance I guess.

fdnyhm1 · 06/09/2009, 11:28 AM

Go with all T5s you will not regret it ever.
They are so much brighter than MH, cheaper to run, cheaper to replace, last longer.
You corals will never look better

stevensun · 06/09/2009, 02:06 PM

If I were you, I would install 12x36" T5 retrofits in the canopy cause this would give me a lot more flexibilities. IME, the ICECAP individual reflectors give out the most par than any T5 fixtures due to its bends and size.

By playing with different combinations of lamps, I can make one side (6 of the 12) brighter for SPS and the other dimmer for LPS and softies. For the SPS side, I might incorporate an ICECAP 660 ballast to overdrive 4 lamps so I can keep SPS from bottom to top. If this will be an SPS dominant tank I would also consider 6x 24" and 6x48" so more space for the SPS and I would aquascape differently between brighter and dimmer sections to better mimic the natural environment.

As you can see the T5 retro's give you the flexibility t5 fixtures can't even imagine with lower cost, better cooling and same or better light output. A potential problem with your first option is that the spillover from the 60" isn't enough to cover another 12" area. 4" maybe but not 12". Hope this helps.

nanojg · 06/09/2009, 02:27 PM

The more bulbs you have the more you will have to replace. I'd go with 4-6 (4 would probably do for just about anything) 5' T5's. Icecap retro's if you have a canapy, otherwise the ATI fixture.

Big_Johnson_Pro · 06/09/2009, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by fdnyhm1
Go with all T5s you will not regret it ever.
They are so much brighter than MH

I was under the impression that MH was the brightest option available to reef keepers? hence the ripple effect on the sand bed. correct me if I'm wrong please.

NeveSSL · 06/09/2009, 03:28 PM

Its not because its brighter, the shimmer effect comes because its a point-source.

Brandon

jubjub · 06/09/2009, 03:51 PM

yeah its a point-source for the shimmer...although imo it also depends on the wattage of the mh bulbs...with a 17" depth 250w be plenty could maybe do 150-175 i think not sure... and for a 6' tank your going to have to have 3x metal halide's 2 wont cut it..i have a 5' and 2 is barely enough i have deadspots on the corners(im using lumenbriteIII mini's)

so if you do 3' t5 bulbs correct me if im wrong here
14-16 bulbs for good coverage (compareable to 8x80)
39w*14 =546w total and 18$-25$ each bulb

t5 option2
8x80w just stagger every other bulb 6" or so from the edge
640w total and around 25$ each bulb

metal halide 250setup
3x 250w + 2x t5 setup(supplimental which might not be needed with 20k)
750w total....80$*3 each mh bulb
910w total....80$*3 each mh bulb and 25$*2 for t5 setup

i guess the point im getting at is as t5 bulbs as they get bigger they become less efficient. me personally i'd stick to the metal halides the shimmer is awesome imo...

NeveSSL · 06/09/2009, 03:54 PM

If you wanted to, you could easily do 6 80w T5s on a 6 ft tank, especially if you overdrive them with IceCap ballasts, but with it being that shallow you really probably wouldn't have to.

Brandon

CBMullen · 06/10/2009, 04:22 AM

Thanks for the input. I like the idea of the 12x39w T5's and making one side lighter or darker depending on coral I am keeping in that area.

nanojg · 06/10/2009, 07:26 AM

that is going to be very expensive to replace bulbs. But I guess you are a professional golfer and can afford it

06/08/2009, 09:41 AM	#1
CBMullen Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: NC Posts: 80	New lighting for 100G I am going to be starting up another DT in the very new future and need some help deciding on the lighting. I want to keep a variety of corals but mainly SPS. I like more of a blue look to my tank than a 10k type spectrum. I favor intense color over faster growth. 100g Long: 72x18x17 Current Ideas for Lighting Option 1: AIT 8x80 T5 with Aqua blue and blue+ and most likely a pro color somewhere. This is only a 60" fixture so I think if I mount the fixture towards one side and use the lower light area to put my collection of LPS or rics/zoas. Option 2: 2x250 MH with 20k Radiums or XM bulbs with supplemental actinic and T5 with 1 icecap 660 ballast running 4- 24" bulbs and another 660 running 3 or 4-36" bulbs depending on what I can fit in the canopy. MH would be located left and right of center with T5 retro around the rim of the tank and dead center location. Let me know what you all think of both of these options. Currently leaning toward option 2 but like the T5 for the low heat factor. Trying to find the balance I guess.

06/09/2009, 03:28 PM	#6
NeveSSL Got tubes? Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 6,759	Its not because its brighter, the shimmer effect comes because its a point-source. Brandon __________________ I am proof that post count is not directly proportional to "reef IQ". Zip Ties = Reef Duck Tape Geek it till it MHz!!! Current Tank Info: 180g Build in Process

06/09/2009, 03:51 PM	#7
jubjub Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: vacaville, cali Posts: 2,698	yeah its a point-source for the shimmer...although imo it also depends on the wattage of the mh bulbs...with a 17" depth 250w be plenty could maybe do 150-175 i think not sure... and for a 6' tank your going to have to have 3x metal halide's 2 wont cut it..i have a 5' and 2 is barely enough i have deadspots on the corners(im using lumenbriteIII mini's) so if you do 3' t5 bulbs correct me if im wrong here 14-16 bulbs for good coverage (compareable to 8x80) 39w14 =546w total and 18$-25$ each bulb t5 option2 8x80w just stagger every other bulb 6" or so from the edge 640w total and around 25$ each bulb metal halide 250setup 3x 250w + 2x t5 setup(supplimental which might not be needed with 20k) 750w total....80$3 each mh bulb 910w total....80$3 each mh bulb and 25$2 for t5 setup i guess the point im getting at is as t5 bulbs as they get bigger they become less efficient. me personally i'd stick to the metal halides the shimmer is awesome imo... __________________ "The world holds two classes of men - intelligent men without religion, and religious men without intelligence." - Abu Ala Al-Maari

06/09/2009, 03:54 PM	#8
NeveSSL Got tubes? Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 6,759	If you wanted to, you could easily do 6 80w T5s on a 6 ft tank, especially if you overdrive them with IceCap ballasts, but with it being that shallow you really probably wouldn't have to. Brandon __________________ I am proof that post count is not directly proportional to "reef IQ". Zip Ties = Reef Duck Tape Geek it till it MHz!!! Current Tank Info: 180g Build in Process

06/09/2009, 11:28 AM	#2
fdnyhm1 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Melbourne Beach, Florida Posts: 59	Go with all T5s you will not regret it ever. They are so much brighter than MH, cheaper to run, cheaper to replace, last longer. You corals will never look better

06/09/2009, 02:06 PM	#3
stevensun Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: S. CA Posts: 420	If I were you, I would install 12x36" T5 retrofits in the canopy cause this would give me a lot more flexibilities. IME, the ICECAP individual reflectors give out the most par than any T5 fixtures due to its bends and size. By playing with different combinations of lamps, I can make one side (6 of the 12) brighter for SPS and the other dimmer for LPS and softies. For the SPS side, I might incorporate an ICECAP 660 ballast to overdrive 4 lamps so I can keep SPS from bottom to top. If this will be an SPS dominant tank I would also consider 6x 24" and 6x48" so more space for the SPS and I would aquascape differently between brighter and dimmer sections to better mimic the natural environment. As you can see the T5 retro's give you the flexibility t5 fixtures can't even imagine with lower cost, better cooling and same or better light output. A potential problem with your first option is that the spillover from the 60" isn't enough to cover another 12" area. 4" maybe but not 12". Hope this helps.

06/09/2009, 02:27 PM	#4
nanojg Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Lubbock, Texas Posts: 2,174	The more bulbs you have the more you will have to replace. I'd go with 4-6 (4 would probably do for just about anything) 5' T5's. Icecap retro's if you have a canapy, otherwise the ATI fixture.

06/10/2009, 04:22 AM	#9
CBMullen Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: NC Posts: 80	Thanks for the input. I like the idea of the 12x39w T5's and making one side lighter or darker depending on coral I am keeping in that area.

06/10/2009, 07:26 AM	#10
nanojg Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Lubbock, Texas Posts: 2,174	that is going to be very expensive to replace bulbs. But I guess you are a professional golfer and can afford it