Tank Overheated, Starting over and have some questions. 90g

[Atomic081]

So I came home from a long 4th of July weekend to find my tank at 86 deg and the lights had already turned off. I believe that one of my heaters went wacko combined with the hottest day of the year so far. 75% of my coral died and I still have not found my blue spot jaw fish and my flame angelfish. I have decided to start over from scratch. I want to keep things easy and keep maintenance to a minimum.

Background of my tank:

90g with corner overflow
2 250w MH lights
3 48" Actinic VHO lights
30� long BERLIN sump with attached REFUGIUM
5 Mag for return pumps
ASM G-3 In-Sump Skimmer w/pump
2 Tunze 3's
125LB Live rock
3" sand bed.

Livestock:
Yellow Tang
Hippo Tang
Flame Angel
Blackcap Basslet
Sixline Wrasse
2 O clownfish
anthias



I had tried to do the SPS dominated tank but my water quality was never up to par for all the high end stuff.

Im now going to try to keep just a few of the easy SPS (Birdsnest, Monti Caps, etc), LPS and softies. I dont really care about spending lots of money on the high end stuff. I just want a tank that is visually appealing. I spend way to much money on ORA stuff only to have everyone in my family come over and comment on how good the GSP looks.

I do have a few questions that I was hoping someone could answer.

1. If im not having a ton of SPS in my tank. Do I need my Calcium reactor? I have trouble setting it up and I dont know how easy it would be just to Dose my tank or add additives daily/weekly. I also could use the money from it to supply me with new corals. Could someone point me in the right direction?

2. I have a Coralife Turbo-Twist 6X - 18 Watt UV Sterilizer. Is it worth hooking up?

3. Is there a easy way to do water changes on bigger tanks. I have my auto topoff with RODI water in my basement so that I dont lug 5gal jugs around my living room every day. For my water changes I have to bring 5 gal buckets and do it the old fashion way. Im sure someone has a easy setup where you can turn on a pump and let it do the work.

4. What is an exceptable heat swing throughout the day. usually im around 77 to 81. I think this is one reason my sps were not doing as well as i wanted. I have added another fan in my canopy to help keep the temp down and I am considering adding a few more.

[ReefWreak]

Without a high demand for calcium/alk, you can get away with just kalkwasser topoff, either manually or with a kalk reactor if you've got an ATO.

UV is okay, but IMO your best bet for the health of your critters is to QT new livestock

3. I'm still looking for an easy way to do water changes without too much work, but have been unsuccessful without draining my tank into my backyard.

4. for heat swings, my tank regularly goes from 80-83/84 sometimes 85, with no ill effect. I have a medusa controller and a 1/4hp chiller on my 120g tank, however I've been having trouble keeping the tank cool this summer since my dad insists on leaving the AC at 80, not leaving much room for help in cooling the tank. I'm going to start running fans on the tank now that I've got a 44g topoff and ATO setup going.

The reason I run my temps that high is 1. we're cheap, 2. we leave our AC high, and 3. if something really bad happens, and the chiller konks out or whatnot, I'll have more headroom for a spike in temperature before bleaching occurs. This info I believe was from Eric Borneman expressed here on RC or in ReefKeeping magazine.

[Atomic081]

Would a Phosban reactor make a bigger difference than the Calcium reactor if im not having a high demand for Calc and Alk?

[ReefWreak]

phosban reactor has nothing to do in any which way with a calcium reactor. 2 totally different appliances for different outcomes. If you're doing vodka/carbon dosing (read the article in ReefKeeping magazine), then no GFO/phosban. Calcium reactor would be useful for keeping SPS, but if you're not doing that, sell the calcium reactor (or don't buy one) and buy a kalkwasser reactor to run in-line with the autotopoff. It should suffice with demand, maybe have some 2 part just in case to fix the levels if they become unbalanced.

Do some reading on the vodka. It may help a lot, or it may not be for you.

[Atomic081]

It sounds like a Kalkwasser reactor would fit my tank better than the Calcium reactor. Ill try to do some reading on it, but i cant find alot on the setups and functions of the Kalkwasser reactor. Ill keep looking.

anyone wana buy a Calcium reactor...lol

[demonboy369]

From what I understand the Kalk stirrers are better than the reactors. Instead of using a pump they use magnetic stirrers so they are less likely to clog.

I dont have one though I am just saying what I have read.

[Atomic081]

After doing some research i might just stick with the Ca reactor. After I spend the time selling it I might not get enough money to buy a dosing kit. So for now ill give the reactor another try.

Im still trying to find a good way to do water changes.

[James77]

A 2-part dosing setup would cost you less than$250, which is 2 peristaltic pumps and the mixes.

[acronautical]

I would definitely recommend a chiller, regardless of the other devices you've mentioned. You're running plenty of wattage on top of that tank. In order to relax and enjoy your system, why constantly worry about the tempurature spiking outside the adaptive range of your livestock? Good chillers are not inexpensive, but IMHO are well worth the investment.

[acronautical]

oops, I meant "temperature."

[thirst]

I am surprised your tank reacted so badly to a rise to 86 degrees. I have heard people having their tanks go up to 90 with things mostly surviving.

whats your normal operating temperature?

[snorvich]

Well the lesson is to get a ranco controller. Heaters break in the control mechanism and usually in the on position.