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divewsharks · 07/21/2009, 01:58 PM

The RKL does have a SL1. I just bypassed it though. I have a simple relay setup to trigger the pump on/off. I also have a backup float switch ~2" higher, if it is triggered (meaning the primary float switch got stuck in the 'on' position) it will turn the pump off. Its really easy to setup, and what pump you use is optional (for instance based on any head pressure you need to account for).

Reefer2727 · 07/21/2009, 02:07 PM

Thanks insane. How much duty do I owe you when that PM crosses the border?

James. I will be using a Reefkeeper Lite and the one I get will have the SL 1 module. So the SL 1 module has 2 switch ports. I assume this is where I will connect the float sensors. Does that mean that I can only have 2 float sensors using this setup? Would I need another switch port connection for anything else I may not know about?

Where could I pick up a bus connection to run to the basement? I really like the idea of bieng able to control my water change water from upstairs. One of my goals here is to completely avoid lugging buckets.

I am slowly getting it. (I think). I apologize for my ignorance and thank those with the patience to help out a newbie.

Reefer2727 · 07/21/2009, 02:11 PM

Divewsharks,

Why did you bypass the SL1 and not use the Reefkeeper? For your simple relay you set up, did you splce the wire of the pump?

Also, how is your safety float hooked up to turn the pump off if the first float fails? Did you use the Reefkeeper for this?

Thanks

James77 · 07/21/2009, 02:15 PM

If you ever need more switch ports, you could get an additional SL1, SL2, or the SW5- which has 5 ports.

You might need other switch ports for auto water change, overflowing skimmer sensor, overflow tank sensor, etc.

Figure how many feet you need for the bus- they sell it in precut lengths from digitalaquatics.com- just shoot them an email.

James77 · 07/21/2009, 02:16 PM

Yes, you connect the float switches to the SL1 switch ports.

Reefer2727 · 07/21/2009, 02:25 PM

With the Reefkeeper Lite I am limited to 4 modules. I will have the SL 1 and 3 PC 4's for a total of 12 plugs. I guess I will be limited to 2 switch ports.

By the sounds of it there are many ways to do it though if I need to expand down the road.

Is there anywhere else that supplies the bus other than Digital Aquatics? Like bulk reef supply?

James77 · 07/21/2009, 02:34 PM

Anyone that carries the Reefkeepers should have at least some of the sizes. Marinedepot and aquacave do.

Reefer2727 · 07/21/2009, 02:45 PM

So for the bus cable, I will connect it to the Reefkeeper and run the bus cable to the basement. This then plugs into the PC 4 downstairs? And the PC 4 can be plugged into another plug in the basement?

divewsharks · 07/21/2009, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Reefer2727
So for the bus cable, I will connect it to the Reefkeeper and run the bus cable to the basement. This then plugs into the PC 4 downstairs? And the PC 4 can be plugged into another plug in the basement?

yes

divewsharks · 07/21/2009, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Reefer2727
Divewsharks,

Why did you bypass the SL1 and not use the Reefkeeper? For your simple relay you set up, did you splce the wire of the pump?

Also, how is your safety float hooked up to turn the pump off if the first float fails? Did you use the Reefkeeper for this?

Thanks

I am currently bypassing the RKL due to wanting preserve some ports on my PC4's, I may change this in the future.
I did cut into the extension cord and spliced the 12v transformer for the relay as well as both float switches. the pump plugs into the extension cord which cannot pass power unless the relay allows it, the relay is obviously triggered by the float switch.
If the primary float fails open when the water rises and closes the secondary float switch it kills the relay killing power to the pump.

hope this makes sense. you can see the design on aquahub.com.

200mfromocean · 07/21/2009, 09:46 PM

I am using a maxi utility pump "404". You do not really need to wear out a nice dosing pump on ATO. You could get the job done with a maxi 400, or one or two "tom's aqualifters". It is really easy when you get down to it. ATO is some of the best money spent. You want slow slow flow but not 1.1-1.5ml per minute slow or anything like that.

Quote:

Originally posted by Reefer2727
Thanks for the advice. I would like to feed my sump from a 10 gallon tank which will sit in the basement under the tank. I will have around 15 gallons or room in my sump so that should be good.

I am just having a hard time deciding how I am going to pump the water up to the tank. Sounds like a peristaltic pump is what I need. Or at least some sort of dosing pump.

I am just totally confused as to how the float sensors, the pump and the controller will all interact. Especially since my reservoir will be in the basement. If I leave the pump for my ATO under my stand I guess it would just pull it up from the basement.

Do the float sensors get wired directly to the controller (Reefkeeper? Or is there splicing involved? Also, how would this work if I had the pump and the PC 4 plug for the Reefkeeper in the basement?

Reefer2727 · 07/22/2009, 07:32 AM

I need a decent pump to pump up from the basement. After some research it looks as though a peristaltic pump is the way to go.

Tom's Aqualifter aren't good for any head.

divewsharks · 07/22/2009, 11:37 AM

No a aqualifter wouldn't work with any head pressure, I'd look at some of the maxijets at a min.

Reefer2727 · 07/22/2009, 12:21 PM

I am really considering the Spectrpure Liter Meter Level Controller. A little pricey but I think it will be perfect and reliable for my situation.

I was debating where to put the ATO pump. If I went this route I would have it in the stand beside the sump. This pump will be strong enough to pull up from the basement.

I would have liked to have my ATO pump in the basement but I think with this unit it has to be close for the float sensors to reach the sump.

James77 · 07/22/2009, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Reefer2727
I am really considering the Spectrpure Liter Meter Level Controller. A little pricey but I think it will be perfect and reliable for my situation.

I was debating where to put the ATO pump. If I went this route I would have it in the stand beside the sump. This pump will be strong enough to pull up from the basement.

I would have liked to have my ATO pump in the basement but I think with this unit it has to be close for the float sensors to reach the sump.

It is basically the same thing I have, but it would keep your float switch ports still open, plus keep a outlet open on your PC4. And....no splicing

. Yes that needs to be kept as close to the sump as the wires allow. They are very quiet pumps, especially if in a closed stand.

You can still do that controlled water change pump in the cellar. You could just run an extension cord to the basment. It wouldn't be ideal for constant electric- but 15-20 minutes here and there is harmless.

Reefer2727 · 07/22/2009, 01:51 PM

Thanks Jim

I do like the idea of saving switch ports and a plug spot. There wouldn't be much point to put a PC 4 in the basement with this set up.

As for the salted water I am going to need to pump up. I will be pumping this out of a 35 gallon aquarium in the basement. I was thinking I would place this essentially under where the aquarium would sit. Near the RODI Brute which will split to feed this 35 and a 10 gallon for ATO water. I figured I would run the ATO 1/4" and the water change hose up and through the wall.

Just need to figure out a nice clean way to have control of the water change pump from upstairs near the DT. Extension cord would defnitely work but I would need to run this up with the other tubes. The set up is on the opposite side of the basement. So running an extension cord up the stairs is a long way.

Maybe I will just cut a small square in the wall for both tubes and an extension cord.

mikedelgado · 07/23/2009, 03:35 PM

tunze osmolator and a diaphram pump have worked great for me. I pump water from 50 feet away up thru an attic
http://www.championlighting.com/prod...383&bestseller

07/21/2009, 02:15 PM	#29
James77 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 8,158	If you ever need more switch ports, you could get an additional SL1, SL2, or the SW5- which has 5 ports. You might need other switch ports for auto water change, overflowing skimmer sensor, overflow tank sensor, etc. Figure how many feet you need for the bus- they sell it in precut lengths from digitalaquatics.com- just shoot them an email. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater

07/21/2009, 02:16 PM	#30
James77 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 8,158	Yes, you connect the float switches to the SL1 switch ports. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater

07/21/2009, 02:34 PM	#32
James77 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 8,158	Anyone that carries the Reefkeepers should have at least some of the sizes. Marinedepot and aquacave do. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater

07/21/2009, 01:58 PM	#26
divewsharks Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 1,905	The RKL does have a SL1. I just bypassed it though. I have a simple relay setup to trigger the pump on/off. I also have a backup float switch ~2" higher, if it is triggered (meaning the primary float switch got stuck in the 'on' position) it will turn the pump off. Its really easy to setup, and what pump you use is optional (for instance based on any head pressure you need to account for).

07/21/2009, 02:07 PM	#27
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	Thanks insane. How much duty do I owe you when that PM crosses the border? James. I will be using a Reefkeeper Lite and the one I get will have the SL 1 module. So the SL 1 module has 2 switch ports. I assume this is where I will connect the float sensors. Does that mean that I can only have 2 float sensors using this setup? Would I need another switch port connection for anything else I may not know about? Where could I pick up a bus connection to run to the basement? I really like the idea of bieng able to control my water change water from upstairs. One of my goals here is to completely avoid lugging buckets. I am slowly getting it. (I think). I apologize for my ignorance and thank those with the patience to help out a newbie.

07/21/2009, 02:11 PM	#28
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	Divewsharks, Why did you bypass the SL1 and not use the Reefkeeper? For your simple relay you set up, did you splce the wire of the pump? Also, how is your safety float hooked up to turn the pump off if the first float fails? Did you use the Reefkeeper for this? Thanks

07/21/2009, 02:25 PM	#31
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	With the Reefkeeper Lite I am limited to 4 modules. I will have the SL 1 and 3 PC 4's for a total of 12 plugs. I guess I will be limited to 2 switch ports. By the sounds of it there are many ways to do it though if I need to expand down the road. Is there anywhere else that supplies the bus other than Digital Aquatics? Like bulk reef supply?

07/21/2009, 02:45 PM	#33
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	So for the bus cable, I will connect it to the Reefkeeper and run the bus cable to the basement. This then plugs into the PC 4 downstairs? And the PC 4 can be plugged into another plug in the basement?

07/22/2009, 07:32 AM	#37
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	I need a decent pump to pump up from the basement. After some research it looks as though a peristaltic pump is the way to go. Tom's Aqualifter aren't good for any head.

07/22/2009, 11:37 AM	#38
divewsharks Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 1,905	No a aqualifter wouldn't work with any head pressure, I'd look at some of the maxijets at a min.

07/22/2009, 12:21 PM	#39
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	I am really considering the Spectrpure Liter Meter Level Controller. A little pricey but I think it will be perfect and reliable for my situation. I was debating where to put the ATO pump. If I went this route I would have it in the stand beside the sump. This pump will be strong enough to pull up from the basement. I would have liked to have my ATO pump in the basement but I think with this unit it has to be close for the float sensors to reach the sump.

07/22/2009, 01:51 PM	#41
Reefer2727 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 995	Thanks Jim I do like the idea of saving switch ports and a plug spot. There wouldn't be much point to put a PC 4 in the basement with this set up. As for the salted water I am going to need to pump up. I will be pumping this out of a 35 gallon aquarium in the basement. I was thinking I would place this essentially under where the aquarium would sit. Near the RODI Brute which will split to feed this 35 and a 10 gallon for ATO water. I figured I would run the ATO 1/4" and the water change hose up and through the wall. Just need to figure out a nice clean way to have control of the water change pump from upstairs near the DT. Extension cord would defnitely work but I would need to run this up with the other tubes. The set up is on the opposite side of the basement. So running an extension cord up the stairs is a long way. Maybe I will just cut a small square in the wall for both tubes and an extension cord.

07/23/2009, 03:35 PM	#42
mikedelgado Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: salado, tx Posts: 222	tunze osmolator and a diaphram pump have worked great for me. I pump water from 50 feet away up thru an attic http://www.championlighting.com/prod...383&bestseller