Need suggestions for appropriate light rail

jlinzmaier · 08/30/2009, 06:53 PM

Hello.

I'm working on an 8ft tank and I plan to use three 400 watt halides with lumenarc reflectors on a light rail. I plan to have it only move between one or two feet. I've only seen a few light rails for sale and I'm finding limited info on them.

The only ones I could find were made by sunlight supply. This first one is the light rail 5.

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/4893/product.web

It seems that it would certainly be sufficient for my needs but seems a bit pricey.

It looks like sunlight supply also makes a light rail 3.5 with either a 6 or 10 rpm motor.

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/240611/product.web

There seems to be less info on the 3.5 version and I'm unsure it will be able to handle what I need it to do.

Just looking for any feedback on either of these light rails or suggestions for something better.

Thanks.

Jeremy

jlinzmaier · 08/31/2009, 10:47 AM

Anyone??

Jeremy

Plan>B · 09/06/2009, 10:14 AM

I have just started to look into this also, as I am in the R&D of a 12' tank. What I was wondering since you were thinking of using 3 lights, couldn't you just use 2, but have them spaced 4'(ish) apart? This way you still have the same coverage, but 1 else fixture. The only way I could see this happening is to have another 'slider' on the rail system with a fixed 'spacer' attached to the motor 'slider'. More or less a master and slaver type of idea.

Any one else using this type of master/slave idea?

ds4x4 · 09/06/2009, 10:56 AM

i think there is a light rail out there where you can just snap on a stop that makes the motor reverse. that way you could use a single 8 foot rail then get yourself a second motor and stop so that they never get close enough to touch. look for hydroponics and plant growing applications.

here is an example what you could do with a single motor and a trolly.

http://www.lightrail3.com/garden/LR35.php

Plan>B · 09/06/2009, 01:47 PM

They do have a system where you can use one motor but add another trolley XX amount (feet) away from the motor trolley. I have send over an email asking about weight restrictions on unit and weight restriction on second trolley pushing/pulling but it bounced back. I did find a seller on ebay that is local to me and have sent over the same questions. Hope to hear from them soon.

There is another system called agramover (dot com) that has something similar. What I like about that system is that is uses standard UniStrut for the rail... easy to come by AND you can get UniStrut is plastic also... though not sure how much weight it could hold using plastic. I have used Unistrt trolleys at work for many project and you can find extra trolley pretty easy... like for keeping the cord out of the way.

luther1200 · 09/06/2009, 02:29 PM

I may be missing the point but if you are wiliing to buy 3 MH and the light bar, you could just get 4 MH and be done with it and not have to pay for the light bar set up. 4 MH might even be cheaper.

Unless you are trying to save power, but with 3 MH plus motor, how much are you saving Vs. just adding another MH.

jlinzmaier · 09/06/2009, 06:50 PM

My planning for using 3 halides and a rail moving 2ft is for a few simple reasons.

1) There is benefit to having the light moving and focusing on the corals at varying intensities at various angles. More areas of good intensity of light without a center spot of buring intensity with decreasing intensity around it. If you think about it, it would more replicate natural light as clouds would cross the sky and waves would move over the reef. The varying intensity when using halides on a rail is much better IMO.

2) The cost of running three halides and a rail is cheaper than running four halides.

3) The additional bulb and ballast is the same cost as the rail and accessories to move three pendants (I spoke with several retailers on how to move three pendants with the light rail 3.5. I was told by several people that the light rail 5 is way overkill for my intentions.)

4) I use radium bulbs on HQI ballasts thus they need to be changed more frequently than standard halide bulbs. One less halide is much more cost effective in my situation.

Thanks for the input everyone.

Jeremy

Plan>B · 09/06/2009, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jlinzmaier
3) The additional bulb and ballast is the same cost as the rail and accessories to move three pendants (I spoke with several retailers on how to move three pendants with the light rail 3.5. I was told by several people that the light rail 5 is way overkill for my intentions.)

That is good to hear. I emailed a couple retailer (have not heard back through) knowing the 3.5 has a weight limit of 35lbs... From what I understand, this is direct weight under the motor. My question to them was how much weight can the 3.5 motor push and pull... having another fixture say 6' away. I don't believe each attachment point would way more then 15-20 each, but that is each. Having 2 fixture at different points could be a different story, so I am hoping the motor could handle it.

Already sold... just don't know which version lol

EDIT: Say jlinzmaier... by chance did you ask them how far it moves in like a minutes time?

luther1200 · 09/06/2009, 07:14 PM

I would be interested to know how you make out.

How fast do they move?

jlinzmaier · 09/06/2009, 07:30 PM

The 3.5 comes with an option of a 6 or 10 RPM motor. The 6RPM motor is stated as moving 2ft/min and the 10RPM moving 4ft/min. There is also apparently a 1min pause after each stop.

The people I talked with made it sound like the 3.5 would have no issues moving the weight of 3 lumenarcs. That's what I'm ordering anyway so we'll find out. If I find that the motor is straining too much I may just purchase the motor for the 5 set up. First I'll have to look into whether or not the the motors can be interchanged with the 3.5 rail or not.

Going to be a few weeks before I actually get to that point though. I've got to do the plumbing, cure the rock, do the aquascaping, let the tank cycle a bit then set up the lighting. Can't set up the lighting until the tank is just about ready for the livestock becuase I have the lights currently over my 180.

Jeremy

08/30/2009, 06:53 PM	#1
jlinzmaier Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Edgar Wisconsin Posts: 2,094	Need suggestions for appropriate light rail Hello. I'm working on an 8ft tank and I plan to use three 400 watt halides with lumenarc reflectors on a light rail. I plan to have it only move between one or two feet. I've only seen a few light rails for sale and I'm finding limited info on them. The only ones I could find were made by sunlight supply. This first one is the light rail 5. http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/4893/product.web It seems that it would certainly be sufficient for my needs but seems a bit pricey. It looks like sunlight supply also makes a light rail 3.5 with either a 6 or 10 rpm motor. http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/240611/product.web There seems to be less info on the 3.5 version and I'm unsure it will be able to handle what I need it to do. Just looking for any feedback on either of these light rails or suggestions for something better. Thanks. Jeremy

09/06/2009, 10:56 AM	#4
ds4x4 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Pennsville NJ Posts: 279	i think there is a light rail out there where you can just snap on a stop that makes the motor reverse. that way you could use a single 8 foot rail then get yourself a second motor and stop so that they never get close enough to touch. look for hydroponics and plant growing applications. here is an example what you could do with a single motor and a trolly. http://www.lightrail3.com/garden/LR35.php __________________ -Asking her for Forgiveness is much easier than asking for Permission.- Current Tank Info: 120gal Re-Build

09/06/2009, 01:47 PM	#5
Plan>B Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: WA Posts: 406	They do have a system where you can use one motor but add another trolley XX amount (feet) away from the motor trolley. I have send over an email asking about weight restrictions on unit and weight restriction on second trolley pushing/pulling but it bounced back. I did find a seller on ebay that is local to me and have sent over the same questions. Hope to hear from them soon. There is another system called agramover (dot com) that has something similar. What I like about that system is that is uses standard UniStrut for the rail... easy to come by AND you can get UniStrut is plastic also... though not sure how much weight it could hold using plastic. I have used Unistrt trolleys at work for many project and you can find extra trolley pretty easy... like for keeping the cord out of the way. Last edited by Plan>B; 09/06/2009 at 01:53 PM.

09/06/2009, 02:29 PM	#6
luther1200 Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ, shore Posts: 4,376	I may be missing the point but if you are wiliing to buy 3 MH and the light bar, you could just get 4 MH and be done with it and not have to pay for the light bar set up. 4 MH might even be cheaper. Unless you are trying to save power, but with 3 MH plus motor, how much are you saving Vs. just adding another MH. __________________ Matt, 65G reef tank Current Tank Info: 65g reef, mix of sps, lps, few softies. Hoping to upgrade within the year.

09/06/2009, 07:14 PM	#9
luther1200 Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ, shore Posts: 4,376	I would be interested to know how you make out. How fast do they move? __________________ Matt, 65G reef tank Current Tank Info: 65g reef, mix of sps, lps, few softies. Hoping to upgrade within the year.

08/31/2009, 10:47 AM	#2
jlinzmaier Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Edgar Wisconsin Posts: 2,094	Anyone?? Jeremy

09/06/2009, 10:14 AM	#3
Plan>B Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: WA Posts: 406	I have just started to look into this also, as I am in the R&D of a 12' tank. What I was wondering since you were thinking of using 3 lights, couldn't you just use 2, but have them spaced 4'(ish) apart? This way you still have the same coverage, but 1 else fixture. The only way I could see this happening is to have another 'slider' on the rail system with a fixed 'spacer' attached to the motor 'slider'. More or less a master and slaver type of idea. Any one else using this type of master/slave idea?

09/06/2009, 06:50 PM	#7
jlinzmaier Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Edgar Wisconsin Posts: 2,094	My planning for using 3 halides and a rail moving 2ft is for a few simple reasons. 1) There is benefit to having the light moving and focusing on the corals at varying intensities at various angles. More areas of good intensity of light without a center spot of buring intensity with decreasing intensity around it. If you think about it, it would more replicate natural light as clouds would cross the sky and waves would move over the reef. The varying intensity when using halides on a rail is much better IMO. 2) The cost of running three halides and a rail is cheaper than running four halides. 3) The additional bulb and ballast is the same cost as the rail and accessories to move three pendants (I spoke with several retailers on how to move three pendants with the light rail 3.5. I was told by several people that the light rail 5 is way overkill for my intentions.) 4) I use radium bulbs on HQI ballasts thus they need to be changed more frequently than standard halide bulbs. One less halide is much more cost effective in my situation. Thanks for the input everyone. Jeremy

09/06/2009, 07:30 PM	#10
jlinzmaier Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Edgar Wisconsin Posts: 2,094	The 3.5 comes with an option of a 6 or 10 RPM motor. The 6RPM motor is stated as moving 2ft/min and the 10RPM moving 4ft/min. There is also apparently a 1min pause after each stop. The people I talked with made it sound like the 3.5 would have no issues moving the weight of 3 lumenarcs. That's what I'm ordering anyway so we'll find out. If I find that the motor is straining too much I may just purchase the motor for the 5 set up. First I'll have to look into whether or not the the motors can be interchanged with the 3.5 rail or not. Going to be a few weeks before I actually get to that point though. I've got to do the plumbing, cure the rock, do the aquascaping, let the tank cycle a bit then set up the lighting. Can't set up the lighting until the tank is just about ready for the livestock becuase I have the lights currently over my 180. Jeremy