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11/22/2009, 03:11 PM | #26 |
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+1 on the angels. Petco/petsmart has 10gallon tanks for like 15 dollars and full setup ones with heater/lights/thermometer and a net for like 50$
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Colin R Current Tank Info: 3rd tank working fine!(29gal oceanic biocube) 5-6months old |
11/22/2009, 03:19 PM | #27 |
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Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
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i found a couple 10-15gal full setups for liek 25$ CAD on craigslist localish, Im going to wait a couple days first and make sure that these guys make it.
im also going to take this opportunity to drill my 45gal when its empty and clean so i can go sump down the road. |
11/22/2009, 03:34 PM | #28 |
GO COLTS!!
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Location: Kentucky
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Wal-mart used to have 10 gallon tanks for 10 bucks, brand new. Might wanna check on that
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11/22/2009, 06:18 PM | #29 | |
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11/22/2009, 06:35 PM | #30 |
Moved On
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Location: Southbay
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My opinion. Your Tank size is to small and i dont know the situation but maybe you got excited and rushed it a lil bit. Salt level's should be a lil higher 1023. I would defently take my time this time around. Remember patience is the key to this hobbie, never by on impulse or even listen to the lfs dealer at times. know what your going to buy. Right a list and do alot of research and ask questions on here and make sure that's what you want. Make sure to ask for them to feed it and its colors are not faded and its active. Make sure the accumalation process is done well and test, test your waters...Trust me i had my ick expiernce and its whiped out my tank 3 years ago. Thank God it was a Fowlr. Now i have a 120 gallon reef with no problems. Tusk, P.Tang and pair of mystery wrasse. Going to upgrade very soon.
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11/22/2009, 10:47 PM | #31 |
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Nope, I never have seen a lawnmower go after anything really, would agree with billdogg
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11/23/2009, 04:24 PM | #32 |
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Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
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Thanks for everybodys help, and not ragging on me for doing something stupid.
my chromis's clowns, and lwb no longer have any ich spots, i plan on breaking down my DT and moving them into another tank and i will leave them there for probably 4-6 weeks. what i am wondering about is the piece of live rock in my DT (the water was treated with formalin) is it ok? the LR was left in there because an anemone is attached to it, my other anemone is floating in a breeder with the clarkii clown. I am curious if the LR is ok, What about the rest of my live rock? Before i treated the water i placed it in all in a garbage can will of fresh waster that was intended for a water change. is it still okay to use? My understanding is that the ICH only attaches itself to fish? I will be throwing out the sand in the bottom of the DT and when i resetup i will buy live sand, the 10 gal will just be barebottom with LR if all my LR is still ok. |
11/23/2009, 04:44 PM | #33 |
Preparing to move on...
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Location: Wilton, CA
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Did you keep the water moving with a power head or pump when storing the rock and inhabitants?
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- Bradley Moved On... |
11/23/2009, 04:46 PM | #34 |
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i kept it moving using my canister filter with no all the media removed, i usually use a powerhead but my canister wont work on my dt since i removed half the water from it. so this was my solution.
Last edited by c0nspire; 11/23/2009 at 04:53 PM. |
11/23/2009, 06:38 PM | #35 |
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do yourself a big favor - go to www.wetwebmedia.com and do a quick search for ich treatment. They have all the correct information on how to successfully treat the problem, as well as suggestions on how to (hopefully) avoid it in the future
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I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer |
11/23/2009, 07:52 PM | #36 | |
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Quote:
am i doing something wrong? Its safe for me to assume that the garbage can full of SW and LR will contain ich, but i can raise the pressure of the water to speed up the ich's life cycle correct? What about the one piece of LR in my DT, the water was treated with quICK cure (as thats what i had from the previous owner of the tank) and it contains formalin and malachite green. the treatment likely killed anything that was benificial on the LR but it is safe to move it back into the DT after the quarantine period? |
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11/23/2009, 08:51 PM | #37 |
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I'd get rid of the rock instead of placing it in a soon to be reef. No meds in a reef is what I go for. If you have a bunch of time and don't mind reading alot of great info, you should get Natural Reef Aquariums by John Tullock. It totally changed the way I go about reefing. Very informative and not too grueling of a read.
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A new beginning........... JIM Current Tank Info: 5g standard softie/zoa tank, just starting a 20H |
11/23/2009, 08:58 PM | #38 | |
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11/28/2009, 07:48 AM | #39 |
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i got myself a 20g QT sometime last week, everythign has been running very smoothly so far, my LTA looked like it was doing poorly for a day or two, but ive made sure to give it extra attention over the last few days and it looks like its getting much better. I plan on running it liek this for a while, ive been doign 25% water changes every 2 days, there is no sand, and a piece of live rock in the tank (my BTA is in a crevice on it and no amount of water flow will make it move) running a HOB filter at the moment, but i think i might swap it for my canister filter because i dont feel the hob is good enough for this.
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