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Unread 11/11/2009, 02:30 PM   #1
sowellj
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continuous water changes

Like the post says, for those of you who are employing a continuous water change type system, what equipment are you using? Litermeter, etc. I am in the process of setting up a 180 and want to automate as much of the water changing process as possible. Thanks for your help.


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Unread 11/11/2009, 02:43 PM   #2
Randy Holmes-Farley
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I use a 30 gpd dual head Reef Filler on a timer for several 15 minute periods each 24 h.


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Unread 11/11/2009, 06:03 PM   #3
buffalo123
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How does this system work? Timer pumps water to the drain for 15 minutes then salt water from barrel or bucket pumped in for 15 minutes or until level reached? How big a water change would that be % wise per day?


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Unread 11/11/2009, 06:35 PM   #4
arredondojason
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i have a float valve installed in my sump with my line run from my RODI unit to the tank and it has a automatic shutoff valve installed once it feels back pressure.


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Unread 11/11/2009, 06:39 PM   #5
Randy Holmes-Farley
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How does this system work? Timer pumps water to the drain for 15 minutes then salt water from barrel or bucket pumped in for 15 minutes or until level reached? How big a water change would that be % wise per day?

You can do as much or as little as you want, and faster or slower if you want, but I do about 1% daily.

It pumps in and out at the same time (the "dual" heads), so there's no level change in the tank.


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Unread 11/11/2009, 06:54 PM   #6
wil611
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Randy

How do you compensate for evaporation if you always fill the tank with saltwater until the desired level is reached?


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Unread 11/11/2009, 07:50 PM   #7
Randy Holmes-Farley
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I have auto top off based on a float switch. The water changes are slow and steady in and out at the same time and cause no level changes (unless I want them to by unbalancing the flows).


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Unread 11/12/2009, 08:08 AM   #8
sowellj
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Thanks for the info Randy. That unit is much cheaper than a litermeter. While I can locate the unit is such a way to minimze the draw height in both directions, the 'waste line' (old salt water to waste) will have to be pumped up ~8 feet, then travel a distance of ~20 feet. Do you see any issues with this?


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Unread 11/12/2009, 08:53 AM   #9
Randy Holmes-Farley
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A Reef Filler has no problem pumping long distances, up levels in a home, etc .


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Unread 11/12/2009, 10:43 AM   #10
bennkrys01
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I've been wanting to do this as well. Will definitely take a look at that system. How long have you been using it? Does it seem fail proof?


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Unread 11/12/2009, 11:44 AM   #11
Randy Holmes-Farley
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I've used it many years. It is not "fail proof", but it has lasted well.

One thing that can happen is a bit of something can get caught in the pump mechanism, stopping pumping. That is especially likely on the tank water part where a bit of detritus can get into it. So just check it once in a while to make sure it is still pumping. At 1% per day, any bad effects are slow to develop.


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Unread 12/03/2009, 02:19 PM   #12
nanojg
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How can I connect a reef filler to a float switch if the water is a long distance from the tank? Can you put the reef filler next to the tank (can it pull water from a great distance) or would you have to run an extention cord from the float switch to the reef filler in the remote location?


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Unread 12/03/2009, 02:37 PM   #13
Randy Holmes-Farley
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You can do either. I do both, one for top off (pumps are remote, near limewater storage) and one where the water supply and drain are remote (water changes).


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Unread 12/03/2009, 02:47 PM   #14
nanojg
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Great, so I can put the reef filler by my tank, connected to a float switch, then run the 3/8" tubing up to the attic then down to the garage into the brute. Thats a powerful pump. Do you have any problems with the limewater tubing getting clogged up?


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Unread 12/03/2009, 02:52 PM   #15
Randy Holmes-Farley
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It needs an acid rinse once in awhile (6 months?), but as long as you do not suck in the mud, it is generally OK. Sucking in particles can mess with the diaphragm part and stop the pumping action.


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