|
|
|
12/06/2009, 10:43 AM
|
#1 |
|
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 12
|
Brown Algae and Red Algae w/ Bubbles
I am having what I assume it a tank cycle since I moved this tank about 2-3 weeks ago. I have attached pics of the algae...
  My Specs are: Ca 480 High kH/gH 9 Amm. 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0 pH 7.8 Low SG 1.023 That is all I can test for. I just want to make sure I am on the right track before I do anything that could be harmful or unnecessary. I would appreciate your input. Thanks. Steven
__________________
Steven 75g reef w/ about 80 lbs of LR; Supreme Model 9.5 main pump; AGA MegaFlow Model 3 Sump; 10 gallon planted refugium; Aquarium Systems SeaClone 150 Skimmer; Hamilton Lighting Hanging fixture with 2 - 250w MHs and 2 54w Actinics; 3 in tank powerheads w/ rotary wavemaker head attachments. |
|
|
|
12/06/2009, 12:10 PM
|
#2 |
|
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Canada, ehh!
Posts: 56
|
Just let the tank settle. How much flow do you have?
|
|
|
|
|
12/06/2009, 12:14 PM
|
#3 |
|
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: north central OH
Posts: 10,740
|
looks like a cyano outbreak. the bubbles are O2 made by happy little cyanos.
you could siphon it gently every day to help cripple it. if that sand was in the tank before the move, the cyano is showing you that the disruption caused stuff to die in th e sandbed and now it has a disproportionate amount of nutrients to feed that bloom until it also settles down to steady state again
__________________
Only Dead fish swim with the current. Current Tank Info: 2 50 gal tanks, sump, still BB |
|
|
|
|
12/13/2009, 08:56 AM
|
#4 |
|
Aoc230
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: london, ON, Canada
Posts: 180
|
Phosphates are most likely your problem, especially if the stats you put up are correct? if you have no ammonia/nitrate/nitrite, id get more flow and do regular water changes. You can buy removers but i personally am not a beleiver in quick fixes. if somethings wrong with water, DO A WATER CHANGE instead of adding chem to that closed system.
The developement of these types of bacteria is amazing, they've addapted to grow off light spectrums that no other corals can grow off of, so they take up the excess wasted light(super cool adaptation), so in short also make sure your lgihting is up to date and hasnt been used for 5 years(light bulbs not ballsts and such) 1.go and buy a phosphate kit and test(have fun they are like no other test kits lol not as simple that for sure. set up like a little science lab) 2. if present do water changes till it deminishes. 3. if the source of your water is TAP water, you may eventually consider an RO/DI unit to help with purity of water |
|
|
|
|
12/13/2009, 02:30 PM
|
#5 |
|
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 12
|
I do use an RO/DI unit...although I did get it when I got my tank setup, so I don't know the age of the filters and I don't have a TRS meter (I am buying an inline TDS meter and new filters when I get paid again). I don't have a phosphate test kit, but I will have to wait until I get paid for that too.
I have been brusing the cyano off of the LR and have been getting it off of the substrate (pain in the a**). I keep getting allot of the sand with it and then I rince it and put it back...otherwise I will end up throwing away all of my sand (aragonite).
__________________
Steven 75g reef w/ about 80 lbs of LR; Supreme Model 9.5 main pump; AGA MegaFlow Model 3 Sump; 10 gallon planted refugium; Aquarium Systems SeaClone 150 Skimmer; Hamilton Lighting Hanging fixture with 2 - 250w MHs and 2 54w Actinics; 3 in tank powerheads w/ rotary wavemaker head attachments. |
|
|
|
 |
|
|
