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Unread 12/17/2009, 03:53 PM   #1
NKYdude
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generator advice - will this model do the job?

http://www.amazon.com/Champion-Equip.../dp/B00295QCRO

i actually have the opportunity to get this for free with a gift cert. i won through a work contest. should i pull the trigger?

what all would this run in my house? like could i run the tank (lights and all) the fridge and maybe a tv/cable box, or is that too much?

Thanks for any help!


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Unread 12/17/2009, 03:58 PM   #2
argi
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I don't know about the quality of the unit, but normally when people run their tanks off a generator they don't worry about the lights. I would only worry about running the return pump and heater (assuming cold weather). A day or two without lights will be fine, but a day or two without circulation and/or heat can be really bad.

It should be able to handle the tanks pump/heater, fridge and a couple other items. IME when power goes out, so does cable so I wouldn't worry about hooking up a cable box but a TV with DVD would be great.

Keith


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Unread 12/17/2009, 03:59 PM   #3
Eric45
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Should be fine for the tank and TV, not sure it could also do the fridge which requires a LOT of power when the compressor goes on, but the tank should only take several hundred watts, probably not over one thousand, depending of course on the size of the tank and equipment.


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Unread 12/17/2009, 04:04 PM   #4
NKYdude
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i'd bet w/ all the equipment listed in my sig i'm under 1kw. this thing is supposed to run 3500 continuously (4kw max) so hopefully i can get it running the tank (no lights) and a tv/xbox360 minimally.

all the food can go outside to stay cold.


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Unread 12/17/2009, 04:10 PM   #5
argi
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I would just check the ratings on the fridge (see what the start up rate is)...unless you have a real energy hog or really large fridge I don't think you will have any problems. But the tank would be my biggest concern (my wife would probably disagree though).


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Unread 12/17/2009, 04:27 PM   #6
captsluggo
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That Genset should run your tank and fridge no problem. The main issue is the startup load. For most induction motors and compressors (refrigerator, chiller, etc) this can be as much as 5 or 6 times what the nameplate wattage is.
Things like heaters you can just add the wattage up and be close. Small motors like PH's aren't bad, a 100 Watt return pump may take 2 or 300 watts to start.
IME that size Gen will start a 1000W window A/C most of the time, but it will labor on startup.
Make your calculations based on the 3.5KW and don't count on 100% of it, the manufacturers are notorious for overrating. Be wary of claims of more than about 500W per engine HP.
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Unread 12/18/2009, 05:41 AM   #7
Fish Ace
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Free is always good. I'm willing to bet this will top out at 2500 and not 3500. Most of these companies over rate there wattage with the exception of a few like Honda and Yamaha. Pick and choose which circuits carefuly. Sump pumps and refrigerators put a big load on these. I run a Yamaha 2800i and the sump pump is the killer other than that we have everything except TV (650 watts). One other thing you do need a transfer switch and let NO ONE tell you other wise.


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