RKL-How did you implement yours??

[mike810]

Hey guys, I'm planning to pick up a RKL for my tank upgrade. I want to get some ideas of how you guys have yours hooked up to your tank? To start, I'm planning to set mines up to control my lights, macroglow light and heater. Very basic for now. But I'm wondering how you guys have expanded from the basic package with all the available probes/accessories for the RKL. Please let me know, I'm very excited about picking this unit up

[kimber45]

i have rkl l3 with mlc and sl1 on my nano24.

these are my channels as of now.

1.return pump
2.heater
3.open
4.koralia powerhead
5.main lights
6.actinic lights
7.refuge light
8.top off pump

mlc - 3 blue moonlight pods

sl1 - ph probe, low water float, high water float

the one thing i would suggest is not using your rkl to control temp. but use it as a overheat safety in case it ever sticks on. i set the heater itself to control temp then use the rkl to shut down the heater if it ever goes to high.

[Chris27]

Originally Posted by kimber45

the one thing i would suggest is not using your rkl to control temp. but use it as a overheat safety in case it ever sticks on. i set the heater itself to control temp then use the rkl to shut down the heater if it ever goes to high.

Precisely, I do the same with both the thermostat in the heater and RK outlet, can't have too many failsafes when it comes to a heater.

As for the rest, mine runs the following:

1. Heater
2. Return pump
3. Skimmer / time delay
4. Float sw. for full or low sump failsafe
5. ATO
6. Kalk reactor
7. pH probe
8. temp probe
9. Hopefully by the end of the day my new K Evolution powerheads will be in, so they will be on the wavemaker.

[serum153]

Use it to control your heater. People not using this feature blow me away and I really don't understand why they say not to. If you set your system up right, then you don't have to worry about anything until you receive an e-mail . I am not a fan of the packages because it comes with an sl1 and I have no use for orp. The cheapest way is to actually build the package from the $99 lvl1. I started with that and have added an sl2,pc4,net. I have also got 2 float switches, ph probe, extra temp probe that runs along side itemp, and am waiting on their new improved salinity probes. I saved money by doing this as opposed to buying the lvl2 or 3.

[mike810]

Originally Posted by kimber45

i have rkl l3 with mlc and sl1 on my nano24.

these are my channels as of now.

1.return pump
2.heater
3.open
4.koralia powerhead
5.main lights
6.actinic lights
7.refuge light
8.top off pump

mlc - 3 blue moonlight pods

sl1 - ph probe, low water float, high water float

the one thing i would suggest is not using your rkl to control temp. but use it as a overheat safety in case it ever sticks on. i set the heater itself to control temp then use the rkl to shut down the heater if it ever goes to high.

Can't you set the RKL to turn off the heater if say the temp prob gets stuck? Like it goes up to 80. You can set the RKL to turn off the heater in said situation right?

serum153 Use it to control your heater. People not using this feature blow me away and I really don't understand why they say not to. If you set your system up right, then you don't have to worry about anything until you receive an e-mail . I am not a fan of the packages because it comes with an sl1 and I have no use for orp. The cheapest way is to actually build the package from the $99 lvl1. I started with that and have added an sl2,pc4,net. I have also got 2 float switches, ph probe, extra temp probe that runs along side itemp, and am waiting on their new improved salinity probes. I saved money by doing this as opposed to buying the lvl2 or 3.

So DA is coming out with a new/better salinity probe then the one already available to us? This is what I plan to do also, I dont want the SL1. I want the SL2 and plan to just buy the RKL basic so I can get the SL2. I want the ph,temp and salinity along with the floats switches. Cause testing salinity to top off all the time is a pita!

[serum153]

Yes they are coming out with a newer probe that is supposed to be far better constructed then the old one. You are on the right page and just know that you will save money by starting with the basic since you do not want an sl1.

Allowing your rkl to control your heater will do just that. You create a set point taht you want and set the hyst to how it reacts. You then set alarms based on similar things, so that when the temp does go beyond what you tell it to it will turn the channel off.

[jubjub]

well i have my rkl to
ports
1. 2x 250 mh lights
2. fan to cool tank
3. ato pump
4. main pump

i have a sl1 with ph probe, and that has both float switches connected to that.

[Chris27]

Originally Posted by mike810

Can't you set the RKL to turn off the heater if say the temp prob gets stuck? Like it goes up to 80. You can set the RKL to turn off the heater in said situation right?

That is what we are essentially doing, when the temp drops the RKL turns on the outlet and the heater comes on, when the desired temp is reached both the heater and RKL outlet turn off. Doing it this way allows for a failsafe in the event one of them fails.

Simply turning the thermostat all the way up, and allowing the RKL to control it doesn't allow much in the way of redundancy. If set up this way, if the RKL has an issue and can't turn the outlet off the heater will continue to run.

[mike810]

Originally Posted by Chris27

That is what we are essentially doing, when the temp drops the RKL turns on the outlet and the heater comes on, when the desired temp is reached both the heater and RKL outlet turn off. Doing it this way allows for a failsafe in the event one of them fails.

Simply turning the thermostat all the way up, and allowing the RKL to control it doesn't allow much in the way of redundancy. If set up this way, if the RKL has an issue and can't turn the outlet off the heater will continue to run.

I usually keep my tank at 77 degrees. Could I just set my heater to 78. Let the rkl control the heater. When it drops to 76. Rkl turns on the socket then heater goes on. When it reaches 77. Rkl turns off the heater. If the itemp prob gets stuck then the heater should turn off when temps reach 78 right? Would this work or is my thinking flawed?

[mike810]

Also I forgot to ask. Can u change the black light on the rkl to a different color other than the grey black light? I think the blue lights on the rke looks really cool

[kimber45]

Originally Posted by mike810

I usually keep my tank at 77 degrees. Could I just set my heater to 78. Let the rkl control the heater. When it drops to 76. Rkl turns on the socket then heater goes on. When it reaches 77. Rkl turns off the heater. If the itemp prob gets stuck then the heater should turn off when temps reach 78 right? Would this work or is my thinking flawed?

the problem i have with that is your still counting on the controller temp probe to turn the heater on. and they have been known to be not so trust worthy. so if it fails it may never turn it on. which for me in the north isn't a problem in summer but in winter i definitely need a heater.

but it would work.

i use the heater to control temp itself just like normal. the only thing i use the controller for is to shut the heater down if the heater should stick on. i also have an audible alarm set if temp gets to high or low.

[mike810]

Originally Posted by kimber45

the problem i have with that is your still counting on the controller temp probe to turn the heater on. and they have been known to be not so trust worthy. so if it fails it may never turn it on. which for me in the north isn't a problem in summer but in winter i definitely need a heater.

but it would work.

i use the heater to control temp itself just like normal. the only thing i use the controller for is to shut the heater down if the heater should stick on. i also have an audible alarm set if temp gets to high or low.

Gotcha. Sounds like a goo way tobrun it. Better to be safe then sorry. Anyone know I u can hang the light on the display screen?