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Unread 03/29/2010, 08:13 AM   #26
swiftwing7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejuggernaut View Post
Well what is your total system volume. You can do a little math to figure out how much heat the poseidon pump will add. First off its a 140 watt pump. Now lets say that the motor operates at 70% effeciency(its probably a little higher than that). But what that means is that only 98 watts of the 140 is actually converted into mechanical energy, the rest is released as noise and heat from both electrical resistance and friction. For the sake of this lets say that all of those 42 watts are converted to heat. And lets say that all 42 of those watts of heat are converted to the water, they aren't though, because much of the heat is released out of the metal case into the air, but to keep things simple lets say all the heat is released into the water.

In order to find out the amount of heat that is we need to convert it to BTUs. 1 watt is equal to 3.413 units of BTU energy, so that means that our 42 watts are actually converted into 143.346 BTUs. It takes 8.34 BTUs to raise 1 gallon of water 1 degree over one hour. Now lets just say you have a 100 gallon total water volume. In order to raise that 100 gallons of water 1 degree you would need 834 btu of heat, or 244.326 watts. So that pump would add less that 2 tenths of a degree of heat over a pump that somehow releases all of its motor heat into the air.
Actually all of the energy from the pump ends up as heat in the water. Conservation of energy. Even if it is transferred to the impeller as mechanical, then the water, the energy still ends up in the water. If you turn off your pump the water doesn't circulate forever, it has friction on itself and the tank and the energy is transferred to heat. 100W pump is a 100W heater. The Poseidon (water cooled) is a 140 W heater that runs constantly, thus the large temp increases that many see using them.


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Unread 03/29/2010, 07:33 PM   #27
jdthomas24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swiftwing7 View Post
Actually all of the energy from the pump ends up as heat in the water. Conservation of energy. Even if it is transferred to the impeller as mechanical, then the water, the energy still ends up in the water. If you turn off your pump the water doesn't circulate forever, it has friction on itself and the tank and the energy is transferred to heat. 100W pump is a 100W heater. The Poseidon (water cooled) is a 140 W heater that runs constantly, thus the large temp increases that many see using them.
no that makes since.......

So Dolphin is out for lack of head pressure?
Red Dragon is way to expensive for me though.
Velocity T4 , will this one work, appears that they are rated for about 700 GPH at mu head pressure, or maybe a little more.

I thought about running two pumps but would rather figure it out for one because i need my UV light hitting all of the water back to the tank.


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Unread 03/31/2010, 09:23 PM   #28
jdthomas24
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ok, i got a t4 and will cut the sump out to run it this weekend and see how it goes, wish me luck!!!!!

I am hoping that the T4 has better pressure with my set up than the eheim compact that runs the same GPH. I was told it would but we will see.


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Unread 04/01/2010, 04:11 AM   #29
mx270
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Good luck, hope it works well.

Have you heard of the water blaster line? Sold at premium aquatics. Seem to be a 'flavorite' red dragon. Not much other info other than low watts and big flow.


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Unread 04/01/2010, 08:31 AM   #30
thejuggernaut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swiftwing7 View Post
Actually all of the energy from the pump ends up as heat in the water. Conservation of energy. Even if it is transferred to the impeller as mechanical, then the water, the energy still ends up in the water. If you turn off your pump the water doesn't circulate forever, it has friction on itself and the tank and the energy is transferred to heat. 100W pump is a 100W heater. The Poseidon (water cooled) is a 140 W heater that runs constantly, thus the large temp increases that many see using them.
I agree with ya...the only kind of pumps that dont release all the heat back into the water are externals and vortechs because a bit of the energy is released as heat from the case into the air. But you cant really include the friction from the water movement cause a pump that has the same flow and pressure rating is gonna release the same amount of heat from friction. You can't get away from introducing that heat.


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Unread 04/01/2010, 10:42 AM   #31
pecan2phat
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I started to look at the Octopus Water Blasters because they have 2 models that have decent Head pressure. I asked a few questions on them through a vendor forum. They look promising because it was stated that they did not have the "restart" issue like the ATB Flowstar pumps and comes with unions on both ends and has a 3 year warranty. Also something about the material used for the impellar & shaft where calcium will not bind to.


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Unread 04/01/2010, 11:36 AM   #32
jdthomas24
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Originally Posted by pecan2phat View Post
I started to look at the Octopus Water Blasters because they have 2 models that have decent Head pressure. I asked a few questions on them through a vendor forum. They look promising because it was stated that they did not have the "restart" issue like the ATB Flowstar pumps and comes with unions on both ends and has a 3 year warranty. Also something about the material used for the impellar & shaft where calcium will not bind to.
im actually looking into them now also. i got the T4 used locally and is in good working order but before i drill a hole in my sump i would like to find out more about 7000 series model and how big they are size wise. im a little limited on how bog of a drop in pump i can have.


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