Chiller Failed - Total Wipeout - Need Recommendation For New Unit

[Meaty24]

I have (had) a beautiful 175 gallon reef tank with tons of coral and fish. I got home from my business trip, and the temp was 102. A total loss. Needless to say, I am absolutely devistated. Two questions:

(1) I need a new chiller. And recommendations for brand or size? I was thinking a JBJ Arctica Titanium Chiller DBM-250 1/3HP. Is that big enough? I have crazy lights (heat!) and a few pumps. Is that the best brand?

(2) Is my live rock still alive? I don't want to throw out 175 pounds of live rock if I don't have to. Also, will I lose my cycle if I want to drain all the water and put in all new water?

[scubabum1983]

geez, what happened. first off start by finding ways to reduce your normal operating temp through fans or other means, raising lights off the tank, something. i live in tucson where 120 isnt unheard of. i try to get my tank running around 79-80 and my chiller runs sometimes during the day, or i run it off a generator with my return pump in the case of a power outage. then work on the chiller, buy more chiller than you need. it wont work as hard, and will last longer than buying too little chiller. i like the jbj arctica. not a fan of pacific coast. hope this helped.

[cr500_af]

Sorry for your loss, but gotta ask... how in the world does a tank reach 102? What is the ambient temp where it is?

[rbnice1]

First things first. Go buy a apex or apex lite. No reason you shouldnt be using a controller to kill lights from high temps and if you travel the email alerts are a must. You just lost how many thousands of dollars of livestock and corals when a simple 3-400 dollar controller could have saved it all.

Second I would really rinse your rock really well. there is going to be a lot of die off. You will prob have to pull all the dead stuff out then I would pull all the rock and swish it in buckets of salt water to get all the junk stuck inside out. then big water changes to the tank/system.

[Meaty24]

The chiller blows a lot of hot exhaust. I was away and all the windows were closed in my apt. I bet between my 1200 watts of metal halides, the pumps and the chiller, the ambient temp. was about 102 in the apartment. The chiller just crapped out.

So, even with all the death, do you think some of the corals may come back? And, don't do a full water change? Maybe 50%?

I am debating between the 1/3 and 1/2 chiller. Any thoughts on that? Also, what is the best brand?

[Meaty24]

Also, what is an apex? Do you have a web link?

[cr500_af]

OK, now I get it. The hot exhaust continued but the chiller wasn't chilling anymore.

I'd bet against any corals surviving that, but I genuinely hope I'm wrong.

[Kilgore]

Originally Posted by rbnice1

First things first. Go buy a apex or apex lite. No reason you shouldnt be using a controller to kill lights from high temps and if you travel the email alerts are a must. You just lost how many thousands of dollars of livestock and corals when a simple 3-400 dollar controller could have saved it all.

Second I would really rinse your rock really well. there is going to be a lot of die off. You will prob have to pull all the dead stuff out then I would pull all the rock and swish it in buckets of salt water to get all the junk stuck inside out. then big water changes to the tank/system.

This needs to be repeated because it's easily the most important thing in this thread.

[rbnice1]

apex is a aquarium controller.

Do a search here or google apex controller.

[stephane]

JBJ are made in Japan they are very good probably the best in my book

1\3 is enough but you need to be in a well ventilated room

[MrSandman]

I used to have a JBJ 1/3HP chiller until it crapped out on me a couple years back. The compressor went bad and the cost to replace the compressor was nearly the cost to purchase a new chiller. So with that said, i went out and did some research and ended up getting myself a 1/4HP Tradewind chiller. Build quality on this is impressive and from what i've read the parts are easily replaceable should one happen to go bad. Plus they're American made. The only downside (if anything) is that it looks industrial and not as fancy as the JBJ's with the digital display, etc. This doesn't matter to me since my chiller is plumbed outside and away from view.

If you can, I highly recommend plumbing your chiller outside so that it can vent outdoors. It keeps things cooler indoors and prevents your chiller from working so hard. Saves on electricity too.

Also, i agree with everyone else on here. Get a good controller. It could have prevented your disaster from happening.

[AMDphenomx4]

You have WAY overkill light. Swap the 400s with 250s and call it a day. my 180 has 2x250w and a 400W. No reason you need that much lighting unless your growing crocea clams at the bottom of a 30" tank.

[Meaty24]

Has anyone else had any experiences with the Tradewind?

[MrSandman]

Originally Posted by Meaty24

Has anyone else had any experiences with the Tradewind?

Try doing a search on here for them. I don't think you'll find anything negative at all.

[dbdisok]

An APEX controller will help prevent you from over heating. Check the Sponsor's forum Neptune Systems or their web page www.neptunesys.com/

This type of controller will allow you to monitor your tank via the internet and even show down or power up individual outlets.

[Daniel Reef]

y to hear this. This is exactly want happened to me about 10 years ago and I never restarted my tank. I am looking into restarting my tank and getting a controller (an Apex). I have also researched some chillers and the one I decided on is a Teco. There is a new review posted. The link is:http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1842913

There is also a thread discussing the pros and cons of an Apex and an RKE -

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1711947

[carlso63]

What about the idea of getting a (window) room A/C unit to keep the ambient fish room temp from going above, say, 72 - 74 degrees?

If you could do that you might not even need the chiller.

My 225 runs 400w halides for 12 hrs / day - in a full canopy - but since my room temp is never above 72F, the tank water temp never goes above 80 - 81F, even when it's 105 degrees outside

Oh, and in any event, a controller is a MUST

[PowermanKW]

Sorry for your loss. That really sucks.

First thing is.... your tank cooked because you don't have a controller, not because your chiller died. Big difference.

Second, you need to do everything you can to lower your heat input. 1200w of MH on a 175 does seem excessive. But what ever. Look at your pumps and energy use. Switch to air cooled pumps, use a needle wheel if you are using a beckett, raise your lights, just try and reduce all your heat inputs. Use fans.

Third, I had no problems with my JBJ, good units. Reduce your heat input and get bigger than you need. A chiller is just a heat pump. It removes heat from the tank and puts it in the room. Having a room 100 isn't helping.

[Meaty24]

How do all of you use fans? Do you put a clip on fan near the top of the tank? I have glass panels coverning the tank. Will the fans still make a difference?

[zygote2k]

Since you're going to have to restart everything, why not take the opportunity to dump the halides and make the switch to LED? No heat issues from them. You won't need a chiller, and the money you'll save from the power consumption of the halides will allow the LEDS to pay for themselves in less than a year.

[PowermanKW]

Originally Posted by Meaty24

How do all of you use fans? Do you put a clip on fan near the top of the tank? I have glass panels coverning the tank. Will the fans still make a difference?

That's another problem....glass tops. Evaporation is heat loss. You may very well need a chiller when it is all said and done, but do what you can first to lower the heat. glass top hold in heat and hamper gas exchange.

I needed a chiller...then I moved my sump to a closet and now need heaters most of the time. I'm in Colorado so windows are open all Summer. I don't need AC... but the tank gets to the point I don't like... so I got a fan instead. Just a cheap clip on over the top of the tank. Keeps my tank at set point and it does not even run all the time. I don't have a canopy either. Canopies are another heat trap. If you still have one you just need to ventilate enough.

A controller takes care of all this..... lights on, if temp gets to 79.9 fan 1 on if temp gets 80.5 fan two on. If temp gets 82 turn off some pumps you don't need and send email alert. If temp gets to 83 turn off lights send text alert.... you get the point.

[sjm817]

I see many issues here that people have already commented on.

Ditch the glass tops
3 x 400W MH on a 180. 3 x 250 would be a big improvement there
How much heat is caused by pumps/skimmer?
Controller to alert of problems and take action to prevent a problem
Room cooling. The chiller dumps heat into the room with nothing to remove the heat.

I have never run a chiller and would not want to rely on one to keep my tank alive.