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05/16/2010, 08:38 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 229
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My first RO/DI, a few Q's about add-ons...
I'm thinking about getting a filter guys ro/di filter and I'm looking at the options they have on the bottom for auto shut off valve, membrane flush valve, pressure Gage kit, RO bypass valve, chloramine filter upgrade, and dual tds meter. . . I know for sure I'm going to get the tds meter and the membrane flush valve. Is the auto shut off valve useful? What about the pressure gage kit, does that measure the pressure going through the membranes or coming out of your faucet or what? And is it useful? The RO bypass valve, do you use that? what type of situation would a person need this for? And the chloramine filter upgrade, is this necessary? Doesn't the carbon in the first couple stages remove the chloramines?
Thanks in advance for your experiences/information. ~Skerp~
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“Things may come to those who wait...but only the things left by those who hustle.” -Abraham Lincoln- Current Tank Info: none yet |
05/18/2010, 11:03 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,555
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My system came with auto shut off valve, flush valve and dual TDS meter. I don't trust the auto shut off valve since I haven't been able to make it function reliably. I only make water when I'm around, never let the system run for more than an hour without checking up on things. Flush valve is a nice feature and probably worth the minor price increase for what you get. Purchased two pressure guages after market and installed one at the input of the system to monitor incoming pressure and the second before the RO membrane. Being able to compare the two pressures is IMO much more useful in monitoring system performance than a single pressure guage typically installed only before the RO membrane. Could potentially save you from needlessly changing pre filters due to water pressure fluctuations from your water supplier. The RO bypass valve is also a useful and low cost add on. Simply allows you to easily divert water before the DI stage for drinking purposes. You could do the same by simply unhooking the line directly at the DI stage whenever you just want RO water, it's very easy to do with the JG fittings on most systems. Or you could go all out with the pressure tank & special faucet etc, but that's more complex than I wish to go for the price. As far as chloramine stages, that depends on what your water supplier uses to treat the water. If you contact them, they will provide that info, whether they use chlorine or chloramine. If they don't use chloramine, a single carbon stage in the pre filters should be more than adequate.
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Mike Current Tank Info: 77g sumpless sw with rock, sand, a few critters, fishes & polyps. Lights, pumps..... |
05/19/2010, 08:18 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Cedar Park, Tx
Posts: 1,072
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If you are going to leave you unit hooked up and turn off the DI water at the DI output you will need the auto shut off valve. It turns off the feed water to the membrane. Without it your water would run all the time. Your best bet is to ask your questions in The filter Guys sponsor forum here on Reef Central if you going to buy from them. They can tell you what you need and what each option is for and how it is hook up. They are A+ and can answer all your questions about their units.
Danny |
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