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06/02/2010, 03:40 PM | #1 |
The DQ King
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chicago (McHenry)
Posts: 2,414
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Cyano problem, help / info.
Hey guys,
Im using my brothers name because hes out of the country, but he just setup my tank and its been a little over a month now. I have about 20lbs of LR in the tank and 40lbs of LS. I have 1 tang(powder blue) and a blenny along with a emerald crab that snuck into the rock when i bought it. Its a 75g with a wet dry / skimmer. My brother will soon be upgrading the wet/dry to a sump with a fuge. The lighting i have on it is too small for the tank, its a 36" fixture off our older tank. Crappy PC which is being upgraded to 2-250w halides. For the most part everything looks good, no algae really aside from a 2 dime sized spots of red slimy algae which i think is cyano. The pet store i took my water sample to said my water is perfect so i dont have the exact measurements currently. I want to get rid of this before i get more rock and im wondering if its because i dont have enough flow in the tank / crappy lights OR is it something else (like the water not being "perfect" as the store told me it was) ANY info / help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much |
06/02/2010, 03:46 PM | #2 |
Moved On
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: canada, toronto
Posts: 8,161
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cyano in your case is caused by
1. the wet dry filter, which just increase no3. (nitrate) 2. old lighting, older bulbs tend to shift spectrum and cause algae. 3. not enough flow. dont ever get LFS to test ure water since good makes no sense. test it yourself to see the value, to some LFS no3 of 10 is good, to be no3 of 0.1 is bad your LFS does not know what he/she is talking about I would remove the wet dry or at least the media in it. and add a power head until you change the lighting and ... |
06/02/2010, 04:52 PM | #3 | |
The DQ King
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chicago (McHenry)
Posts: 2,414
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Quote:
Whats the best test kits to get to test for all these things? Thanks again Allmost! |
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06/02/2010, 05:32 PM | #4 |
Registered Member
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Location: Columbus, IN
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Make sure you bring down the nitrates and you keep your pH over 8.1
Cyano will be gone in a week. hope it helps, Marian
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Enjoy your time reefing ! Current Tank Info: 90G Perfecto Mfg. Cube, 20G sump, DIY 24 LED light fixture + 250 MH, DIY Arduino controller, Reef Octopus 1000 LSS skimmer |
06/02/2010, 05:38 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Houston. Cypress area
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2 words.... fighting conch
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Every day above ground is a good day... Current Tank Info: 210 SPS dominating tank. 280 Gallons total volume |
06/02/2010, 05:46 PM | #6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: seattle WA
Posts: 105
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Cyano is caused by excess phosphates and high nutrient levels. I dont think the wet dry filter is a problem, because the tank is newer. These filters usually start producing nitrates as they age. I would siphon the algae out and add some phosphate remover.
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06/03/2010, 12:29 PM | #7 |
The DQ King
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chicago (McHenry)
Posts: 2,414
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Excellent. Hopefully i can get it out soon.
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06/03/2010, 01:23 PM | #8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Centerville, UT
Posts: 712
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Keep an eye on that tang. Powder Blue tangs can be very difficult to keep, and I wouldn't dream of adding one to a one month old tank. With that said, I wish you the best of luck and hope for your continued success in this hobby.
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06/03/2010, 08:13 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 766
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stop feeding so much.
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06/03/2010, 11:13 PM | #10 | |
The DQ King
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chicago (McHenry)
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Quote:
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06/03/2010, 11:41 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Oxnard
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+1 on low water flow and nutrient rich. and leaving the lights on for long periods of time contribute.
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06/04/2010, 06:20 AM | #12 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tuscaloosa, AL
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Quote:
A little cyano in a young tank is fine. Keep doing water changes and get your own test kits. |
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06/04/2010, 06:48 AM | #13 |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ohio
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I have a wet/dry filter with bioballs. Wet dry filters are fine so long as you keep the pre-filters clean, and have a regular nitrate export routine like regular water changes. I had cyano when my tank was cycling, have none now.
The problem stated here is cyano. This is a form of bacteria, NOT algae. 4 things will keep the cyano in check and help eradicate it. One, make sure to ged rid of phosphates and silicates. Best way to do this is RO/DI water. Less ideal is to use carbon filters that specifically adsorb phosphates and silicates and change them routinely. Two, change your lights. Older bulbs do change their spectrum. Three, make sure there is adequate flow in the tank. Four, when you do a water change, suck them out. The are easily dislodged with a turkey baster. Here is a link: http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/dia...slimealgae.htm
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Anything I post is just an opinion. One of many in this hobby. Believe and follow at your own risk of rapid and complete annihilation of all life in your tank :) Current Tank Info: Incept 3/2010, 150 RR, 50g sump, 20g fuge, 150w 15K MH x3, T5 actinics x8, moonlight LED x6, 1400gph return, Koralia 1400 x4, 300 g skimmer, 4 tangs, 2 mandarins, 2 perc, 6 line, 3 cardinals, 2 firefish, SPS, LPS, zoas, palys, shrooms, clam |
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