Meanwell Current Question

ChrisOz · 07/03/2010, 04:12 AM

I'm wiring up 12 to 13 LEDs per string with Meanwell ELN-60-48D drivers. I am attempting to test the current with my multimeter (in 10A test mode... it's configured correctly, this I know) and continually receive a reading of 2.11 ... way too high. I'm looking for 0.7 (700 ma) ideally. My dimmer + and - are currently hooked up to a 9V battery (for testing) and my voltage tested out nicely for the driver at 48V.

1) Do I need to add a resistor in line to properly test for my driver's current? I am just going from positive lead to multimeter to negative lead at the moment. If so... what's the easiest type I could get my hands on (or make?) in the least amount of time? I'm in Canada, radio shack does not exist here unfortunately.

2) Should the SVR2 (current) pot come to a stop (eventually) when I turn it counter clockwise? I can continually turn it CCW without it stopping. I want to dial the current down to its minimum, connect in series to my string of LEDs and multimeter, then test... however, without a stopping point for the current pot, and with a current reading of 2.11 on 10A mode (too high!)... I am uncertain it is at minimum current and don't want to blow 12 LEDs.

Thanks for the help guys, I've searched for specific answers to my questions with no avail and now I turn to you.

jtl2 · 07/03/2010, 05:03 AM

Did you put the multimeter in the circuit in series? In other words...temporarily wired in as the "last LED" in the circuit? Assuming here that you have a series circuit for your LEDs.

ChrisOz · 07/03/2010, 06:24 AM

the multimeter WILL be in series... but as per 2), I am unsure that the current is dialed down to minimum as there is no stopping point for the SVR2 pot when I turn CCW (or CW for that matter). I don't want to run the risk of testing on a full string of LEDs if there's a chance my current is 1.3A and will blow everything. I'm looking for a surefire way to either adjust the current to a minimum then scale up (as there's no stopping point for the pot) or test the current without the LEDs so I know it's dialed-in correctly before I actually test the 12 LED string.

Thanks Guys... I'll be checking back all day.

ChrisOz · 07/03/2010, 02:18 PM

Any ideas fellas?

jtl2 · 07/03/2010, 03:17 PM

You can go to a lower voltage on the dimmer circuit to reduce the current. Just set up two strings of 12 XR-Es today and with 0 on the dimmer circuit you won't have to worry. Used a regulated 9vdc wall wart with a 10k linear pot, worked like a charm. That would at least give you piece of mind for initially cranking up the string.

vanz · 07/03/2010, 04:06 PM

I had the same issue you have, but had a reading of 1.8A on a lighted string

. I'm not sure how my string didn't blow. I tested it 3 times to be sure.

I would return it to where you got it from because SVR2 pot is faulty.

ChrisOz · 07/07/2010, 09:37 PM

Thanks fellas for the responses. I got in touch with Meanwell and apparently it's not uncommon to occasionally encounter a faulty SVR2 pot. They've sent me two new pots to solder in.

In the meantime, I got my one driver with working pots going and the mini-fixture is looking VERY bright.

07/03/2010, 04:12 AM	#1
ChrisOz Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Mississauga, Ontario Posts: 95	Meanwell Current Question I'm wiring up 12 to 13 LEDs per string with Meanwell ELN-60-48D drivers. I am attempting to test the current with my multimeter (in 10A test mode... it's configured correctly, this I know) and continually receive a reading of 2.11 ... way too high. I'm looking for 0.7 (700 ma) ideally. My dimmer + and - are currently hooked up to a 9V battery (for testing) and my voltage tested out nicely for the driver at 48V. 1) Do I need to add a resistor in line to properly test for my driver's current? I am just going from positive lead to multimeter to negative lead at the moment. If so... what's the easiest type I could get my hands on (or make?) in the least amount of time? I'm in Canada, radio shack does not exist here unfortunately. 2) Should the SVR2 (current) pot come to a stop (eventually) when I turn it counter clockwise? I can continually turn it CCW without it stopping. I want to dial the current down to its minimum, connect in series to my string of LEDs and multimeter, then test... however, without a stopping point for the current pot, and with a current reading of 2.11 on 10A mode (too high!)... I am uncertain it is at minimum current and don't want to blow 12 LEDs. Thanks for the help guys, I've searched for specific answers to my questions with no avail and now I turn to you. __________________ chrisoz@yorku.ca Current Tank Info: 48x24x20 (100g) build

07/03/2010, 06:24 AM	#3
ChrisOz Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Mississauga, Ontario Posts: 95	the multimeter WILL be in series... but as per 2), I am unsure that the current is dialed down to minimum as there is no stopping point for the SVR2 pot when I turn CCW (or CW for that matter). I don't want to run the risk of testing on a full string of LEDs if there's a chance my current is 1.3A and will blow everything. I'm looking for a surefire way to either adjust the current to a minimum then scale up (as there's no stopping point for the pot) or test the current without the LEDs so I know it's dialed-in correctly before I actually test the 12 LED string. Thanks Guys... I'll be checking back all day. __________________ chrisoz@yorku.ca Current Tank Info: 48x24x20 (100g) build

07/03/2010, 02:18 PM	#4
ChrisOz Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Mississauga, Ontario Posts: 95	Any ideas fellas? __________________ chrisoz@yorku.ca Current Tank Info: 48x24x20 (100g) build

07/07/2010, 09:37 PM	#7
ChrisOz Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Mississauga, Ontario Posts: 95	Thanks fellas for the responses. I got in touch with Meanwell and apparently it's not uncommon to occasionally encounter a faulty SVR2 pot. They've sent me two new pots to solder in. In the meantime, I got my one driver with working pots going and the mini-fixture is looking VERY bright. __________________ chrisoz@yorku.ca Current Tank Info: 48x24x20 (100g) build

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07/03/2010, 05:03 AM	#2
jtl2 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Tennessee Posts: 60	Did you put the multimeter in the circuit in series? In other words...temporarily wired in as the "last LED" in the circuit? Assuming here that you have a series circuit for your LEDs.

07/03/2010, 03:17 PM	#5
jtl2 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Tennessee Posts: 60	You can go to a lower voltage on the dimmer circuit to reduce the current. Just set up two strings of 12 XR-Es today and with 0 on the dimmer circuit you won't have to worry. Used a regulated 9vdc wall wart with a 10k linear pot, worked like a charm. That would at least give you piece of mind for initially cranking up the string.

07/03/2010, 04:06 PM	#6
vanz Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 30	I had the same issue you have, but had a reading of 1.8A on a lighted string . I'm not sure how my string didn't blow. I tested it 3 times to be sure. I would return it to where you got it from because SVR2 pot is faulty.