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Unread 09/06/2010, 09:00 PM   #26
DanMgy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoralBananas View Post
I've checked the manual for the skimmer and it states "for maximum performance do not locate the pump more than 20cm below the water inlet of the skimmer" so I guess I'll have to make it 8".
What type of skimmer are you running?

I know with mine it has a range of 8 to 10 inches and asking and looking on here the consensus is running it in 8 inches.


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Unread 09/09/2010, 12:48 AM   #27
CoralBananas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanMgy View Post
But I have been following this as I am in the process of building my sump and looking to make it as simple and effective as possible. I like the idea of going Fuge-->Return<--Skimmer. But am still confused on the best way to get water to the Fuge. Is it running a T off the return or putting a T from the overflow?

If I use gate valves to control the flow from the overflow I think I would have more control for the over-all flow for the sump. Ideally I would use 3 to and place one right before the T to create larger head pressure and eliminate any turblance.
I would run the T from the return as the water going to the fuge will be a) freshly skimmed & b) bubble free having passed through the bubble trap. I need to think about where put my valves too.


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Unread 09/09/2010, 12:52 AM   #28
CoralBananas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanMgy View Post
What type of skimmer are you running?

I know with mine it has a range of 8 to 10 inches and asking and looking on here the consensus is running it in 8 inches.
I run a V2 Skim 1500 with a Rio pump. How about you?


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Unread 09/09/2010, 01:13 AM   #29
uncleof6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanMgy View Post
I am not sure if it is done on purpose, but the bubble trap in the picture has the first baffle at 8 inch and the third is at 11 inch?

It looks as if the middle baffle is shorter than the third baffle so all the water would not be forced to flow under/through the bubble trap. I would think the order in height would need to go (from hieghtest to shortest) second, third, first.

But I have been following this as I am in the process of building my sump and looking to make it as simple and effective as possible. I like the idea of going Fuge-->Return<--Skimmer. But am still confused on the best way to get water to the Fuge. Is it running a T off the return or putting a T from the overflow?

If I use gate valves to control the flow from the overflow I think I would have more control for the over-all flow for the sump. Ideally I would use 3 to and place one right before the T to create larger head pressure and eliminate any turblance.

?!? A valve (restriction) in the drain line will cause turbulence, not correct it. A Tee in a drain line will cause turbulence. Assuming that it is an open channel type drain. A siphon plays by different rules.


It was intentional. I drew that up some time ago, and don't really remember what thread it was put in. Yeah, the bubble trap is useless, as water level will be at the top of the third baffle, and water will not flow through the bubble trap.

Flow rate through a system is controlled by the return pump. A valve in the return line is the best overall control for flow rate through the system, including the sump, and accessory equipment such as a "fuge" and/or reactors, chillers, etc. Drain lines are finicky characters, and although a valve is used on siphon lines, it is not used to control flow rate. An open channel (aka durso etc ad infinitum) is problematic enough with out adding the additional restrictions and variables associated with valves and splits.

Jim


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Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef
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Unread 09/09/2010, 03:58 AM   #30
CoralBananas
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Originally Posted by uncleof6 View Post
It was intentional. I drew that up some time ago, and don't really remember what thread it was put in. Yeah, the bubble trap is useless, as water level will be at the top of the third baffle, and water will not flow through the bubble trap.

Flow rate through a system is controlled by the return pump. A valve in the return line is the best overall control for flow rate through the system, including the sump, and accessory equipment such as a "fuge" and/or reactors, chillers, etc. Drain lines are finicky characters, and although a valve is used on siphon lines, it is not used to control flow rate. An open channel (aka durso etc ad infinitum) is problematic enough with out adding the additional restrictions and variables associated with valves and splits.

Jim

Jim, what do you think about a so called "bubble tower"? It seems to be a method used by many aquarists so I wondered whether it would be worth doing and if the nitrates issues discussed earlier in this thread apply at all.*

Found an example on melevsreef.com at the bottom of the page.

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/f/sump_f.html


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Unread 09/09/2010, 09:17 AM   #31
uncleof6
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I don't think about bubble towers. Last several sumps I threw together did not have bubble traps.

Jim


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Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef
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Unread 09/09/2010, 09:08 PM   #32
autopro
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Originally Posted by uncleof6 View Post
Skimmer on the left, "fuge' on the right, return in the middle. Fuge baffle 12", bubble trap 9". Feed "fuge" with a branch from the return line.

Jim
Jim:

Given this type of design what exactly would you put in the fuge?

Thanks!


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Unread 09/09/2010, 09:24 PM   #33
uncleof6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autopro View Post
Jim:

Given this type of design what exactly would you put in the fuge?

Thanks!
A model of a sunken battleship.........


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Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef
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Unread 09/15/2010, 02:44 PM   #34
CoralBananas
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For anyone that was following this, here is my final sump design. After weeks of research and forum bashing I think I've got the best design that I can accomodate in my cabinets. Thank you to all who replied and made suggestions. Please feel free to pitch in and make suggestions / point out errors / ask questions to make sense of it lol...

K


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Unread 09/15/2010, 03:55 PM   #35
uncleof6
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Naaaahhhh, no way it will work. I tell you what though, you can box it up and send it to me. Am certain I CAN make it work.

Jim


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Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef
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Unread 09/15/2010, 03:58 PM   #36
CoralBananas
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Originally Posted by uncleof6 View Post
Naaaahhhh, no way it will work. I tell you what though, you can box it up and send it to me. Am certain I CAN make it work.

Jim
come on man its practically your design! cant tell if youre serious or on a wind up but dont put me down when i think ive finally cracked it lol!


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Unread 09/15/2010, 04:11 PM   #37
uncleof6
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Actually, it is Melev's design, I stole it from him, everyone steals it from me. They think it is better to steal from ME, rather than him? Well, ok-- FINE!

Heavens no, don't crack it: It will leak.


Jim






Run it!



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Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef
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Unread 09/17/2010, 02:49 PM   #38
reelfishy
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Uncleof6 quick question about RDSB/bucket DSB should the drain of the DT be t'ed off to power the flow? and where should the return go? Should it go to the skimmer section of the sump, to the return pump area or straight back to the DT?

TIA


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