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03/08/2011, 02:36 PM | #1 |
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Location: Palmer Alaska
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My First Salt water tank
Hello everyone.
I have finally started down the road to get my large (to me) tank set up. End product will be a 210 gallon DT and a 125 gallon sump. I have bought a 55 Gallon tank from some one that is getting out for now. Not much to life in the tank yet. I got the tank drilled out and set up the plumbing better than it was. I have a new sump going in for filtration in a few weeks. The tank have been running 11 days and seems to be going pretty good. I have a few questions and I also would like to know if I am ready to add life or not. Here is my tanks chemistry. Ammonia 0 Ph 8.3-8.4 Nitrates 30 nitrites 0 GH 180 KH 240 temp 78 f I do have some brown stuff growing on the sand I was told it is ok the tank is going through a cycle. Not sure how long that will take yet. I would like to add a clean up crew to my tank. Where should I buy from. I have been looking online just not sure what company. I live in Alaska so I am thinking West coast. to cut down on travel for the creatures. Should I get a clean up crew and wait some time for some fish. I would like to put a couple clown fish and anemone's in the tank when safe. Any help would be great. Thanks
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Shannon (Alaska) Dual 210 Gallon DT, 125 Gallon Sump remote, QT, Frag Tank = 650 Gallons Now I play chemist with my tank till its right. |
03/08/2011, 02:50 PM | #2 |
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hope this helps.
Patience is the key. If you rush the process it will just cost you money and your livestock their life. I would guess another 3 week then add one fish at a time. Clean up crew should be added after tank has cycled and fish have been introduced. Inverts are less tolerant then most fish of poor water quality and the established biological process will insure food is available to the clean up crew. I have the first 2 fish I every purchased over 2 years ago and have generally been very successful with live stock and coral using this method on several tanks in my house. Good luck!
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03/08/2011, 03:40 PM | #3 |
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Thanks for the advice. I am not in a hurry but always would like to see something moving around in the tank. waiting 3 weeks in no problem.
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Shannon (Alaska) Dual 210 Gallon DT, 125 Gallon Sump remote, QT, Frag Tank = 650 Gallons Now I play chemist with my tank till its right. |
03/08/2011, 05:57 PM | #4 |
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also the brown stuff on your sand is most likely diatoms. Very common for new setup tanks. Just be extremely patient, you need a good month to cycle and your tank wont establish itself for a good six months! Once you start seeing coraline algae then you can start to get excited!
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03/08/2011, 06:03 PM | #5 |
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My tank is 5 months and 2 days old and I still have brown stuff on my sand, but only in the front. I have lots of flow, all my parameters are good and use only ro/di water. So maybe it never goes away, and I have tons of purples, and pinks all over the rock, overflow box, and back of glass. So all the coraline would lead me to believe that I have a mature tank, but maybe that isn't a good indicator.
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03/08/2011, 06:44 PM | #6 |
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The tank I bought was set up and established for a very long time. It looked healthy and clear. I took everything and kept warm in a van to my house and got it transferred as fast as possible. I took, live sand, live rock, water, sump and any other critters that were hiding. I have beautiful purple mushrooms that are coming out and a hermit crab running around. Since I took everything including the water this should cut down on my cycle time is what I was thinking. Let me know if this makes a difference or I am still going to need weeks or months before my tank is matured and healthy.
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Shannon (Alaska) Dual 210 Gallon DT, 125 Gallon Sump remote, QT, Frag Tank = 650 Gallons Now I play chemist with my tank till its right. |
03/08/2011, 06:57 PM | #7 |
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Welcome to RC and your new addiction.
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Go big or go home!!!! Current Tank Info: Just loungin |
03/08/2011, 06:58 PM | #8 |
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That will definitely cut down on your tank's maturing time. That is how I eliminated my cycle all together. So don't be suprised if you never experience a spike of any kind, I didn't.
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03/08/2011, 07:58 PM | #9 | |
cats and large squashes
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Quote:
You can give it a test by feeding the crab some fish food daily for a week and if you don't see any ammonia or nitrite but do see nitrate go up, you are cycled. Before you add an anemone, you want to get control of those nitrates and get them down around zero.
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Marie So long, & thanks for all the fish! __________________________ Current Tank Info: Pairs: flame angels, cherub angels, Red Sea mimic blennies, yellow fin fairy wrasses, clowns, mandarins, blackcap basslets, shrimp gobies, damsels, dispar anthias, yellow clown gobies, threadfin cardinals --- Tanks: 100g reef, 2 x 30g refugiums |
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03/08/2011, 08:02 PM | #10 |
cats and large squashes
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You probably already know anemones have certain lighting requirements. Just wanted to mention since you didn't post your lighting.
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Marie So long, & thanks for all the fish! __________________________ Current Tank Info: Pairs: flame angels, cherub angels, Red Sea mimic blennies, yellow fin fairy wrasses, clowns, mandarins, blackcap basslets, shrimp gobies, damsels, dispar anthias, yellow clown gobies, threadfin cardinals --- Tanks: 100g reef, 2 x 30g refugiums |
03/08/2011, 09:12 PM | #11 |
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Not sure if the lights I have are enough. I plan on Par38 LED lights in the big tank but this set up came with Coralife lights.
The 50/50 Fluorescent Lamp is a mixture of 50% 10,000K natural daylight and 50% True Actinic 03 Blue phosphors. This full-spectrum lamp provides tank inhabitants with the proper light required for essential biochemical reactions. Please let me know if this is enough light for coral or if I need to upgrade prior to adding coral.
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Shannon (Alaska) Dual 210 Gallon DT, 125 Gallon Sump remote, QT, Frag Tank = 650 Gallons Now I play chemist with my tank till its right. |
03/08/2011, 09:16 PM | #12 |
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That sounds like some good lights, coralife are reliable as far as fixtures and ballasts. As far as wattage, some guys say you don't have to worry about that these days with Kelvins being more important. I don't believe in that hype and continue to say that 3-5 watts of light per gallon is minimum for coraline algae and FOWLR, for corals it depends on how high the light requirements are for the individual coral, but 7-10 watts of light per gallon is a good general rule to be safe. Now let the disagreements begin....LOL
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03/09/2011, 02:47 AM | #13 |
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Another question I have is can I put 2 Black and White clown fish in my 55 Gallon tank. The sump I am putting in will be about 20 gallons of water. I have seen a mated pair at my LFS and I would like to purchase them when my tank is ready. They will live in this tank for about 6 months before I have my 210 DT ready for them. If this is to small of a tank for them I can wait.
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Shannon (Alaska) Dual 210 Gallon DT, 125 Gallon Sump remote, QT, Frag Tank = 650 Gallons Now I play chemist with my tank till its right. |
03/09/2011, 02:53 AM | #14 |
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Yes, a 55 has PLENTY of space for 2 clowns
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http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2534403 Current Tank Info: 225 gal Reef, 60 gal reef & 40b frag tank |
03/09/2011, 11:30 AM | #15 |
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Plenty
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03/09/2011, 04:09 PM | #16 |
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Thanks everyone. I have found 3 Blue and red leg crabs cleaning my tank. Might be a few more I can not see. Plenty of life hair algae, mushrooms, kenya tree, no Coralline Algae that I can see. I am planning on introducing some more creatures but what is the best way to drop the nitrate down? Water change?
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Shannon (Alaska) Dual 210 Gallon DT, 125 Gallon Sump remote, QT, Frag Tank = 650 Gallons Now I play chemist with my tank till its right. |
03/09/2011, 07:57 PM | #17 |
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Yeah, do a 20%-25% W.C. Test before and after the W.C. and see how much the NO3 drops. Good Luck !!!
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