AI Blue Sol just plugged in and unimpressed

angnak · 05/01/2011, 01:08 PM

I cranked them up to 100% just to see and it looks like I have just added another moon light strip with a few whites mixed in. People say you need to acclimate your corals to it. It looks like I could keep it cranked up all the way the corals would suffer. Anyone else have this experience. I have three units so it is not just one unit. Am I missing something? Everyone is saying these are so bright, etc...

jtma508 · 05/01/2011, 01:56 PM

There have been posts on this before. It has something to do with the controller needing to be reset. The lights will max at the previous setting if the controller is disconnected or if the wrong conroller setting (set-up as Sol Wht when the modules are Sol Blu). You can be sure it's a setup issue and noty the lights.

angnak · 05/01/2011, 03:42 PM

I updated the firmware twice now. Now one of the units blue LEDs are either at maybe 10% or off no matter what the setting is. When the blues go out I have to unplug all the units and they come back on but very dim.

angnak · 05/01/2011, 03:56 PM

You can see the difference in the blue LEDs. The blues are the ones that are on top of the pyramid closes to the top of the pic. The second pic is the one that is dimmer

SoLiD · 05/01/2011, 04:02 PM

Reset your AI Controller and make sure you select the SOL Blue option. ???

AcroporAddict · 05/01/2011, 04:21 PM

Have you done a factory reset of the controller? From the AI owner's Manual:

Factory Reset
In the unlikely event your controller becomes inoperative, has a blank or dark screen, or is not operating properly, you can perform a factory reset. We recommend that you first try and do a Firmware Update to see if this fixes the problem. If not, a fac- tory reset can be performed. Note that a factory reset operation erases all timers and options, resets the clock, and sets the controller back to its initial factory settings. There are two ways to perform a factory reset:

1. Select the Other menu and press down the knob. Press again to bypass the LCD Brightness screen, then press again to bypass the Select Model screen. When Factory Reset appears, push down the knob. A second screen will verify your actions. Select Yes to factory Reset, select No to cancel. The controller will then prompt you to remove the jack for 5 seconds and plug it back in again.
2. Factory Reset can also be performed during initial power up. We recommend you use this method only if the controller is non-functional or the display is not working. To perform a power-up factory reset, unplug the jack and plug it in again. During the initial version display screen or within 3 seconds, immediately push down on the knob. Continue to hold the knob down for at least 15 sec- onds. Now release the knob and unplug the jack for 5 seconds. Plug it back in again and the controller will start at its factory reset condition.

angnak · 05/01/2011, 05:03 PM

I have ran the firmware update twice and chose the SOL blue option each time. The factory reset says if the controller is not working. That seems to be working but I am up for trying anything right now. I will let you know. Thanks.

AcroporAddict · 05/01/2011, 05:55 PM

You could always have a defective controller.....I just got and installed 9 sol blue units and one of my power supplies is bad...worked for an hour then kaput. I opened a ticket for Support this weekend and I'm sure they'll ship me a replacement right out. I've read they have excellent and fast Customer Service. If you can't get the controller going, open a ticket with AI here:

http://support.aquaillumination.com/requests/new

Also, AI states that products must be registered on their website for the One Year Warranty to be in effect, otherwise they have a 30 day warranty. Instructions on where to do this are on the card that comes with the module.

AcroporAddict · 05/01/2011, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by angnak

I have ran the firmware update twice and chose the SOL blue option each time. The factory reset says if the controller is not working. That seems to be working but I am up for trying anything right now. I will let you know. Thanks.

One of my controllers (I have three of them..bought 3x 36" kits) had a black screen when I plugged it in, so I did a reset and that fixed the problem.

angnak · 05/04/2011, 05:34 PM

Well I opened a ticket. One ac adaptor is bad and they are shipping out another. Still haven't gotten an answer on the other one. I have three in all. Anyone else think they are not that bright. I changed the busted one out and have two running side by side and they really look like extra bright nite lights. Anyone else disappointed when they got theirs up and running?

angnak · 05/04/2011, 05:42 PM

I have the two that seem to be working plugged in. I was told these are very comparable to metal halides. Mine just really don't seem very bright. It looks like at 100% I need no acclimation. Everywhere I read and reviews say these are very bright. My LFS has many different LEDs setup and these are no where near as nice. Any reason why they might not be all that bright. Most of my corals are closed and acting like it is night time. Deflated. Never bounced bakck from the few hours I had my halides off getting the new hood on with these going.

James77 · 05/04/2011, 06:19 PM

Brightness to your eyes is not a good way to gauge the PAR output of LEDs. Everything I have read is that one of the biggest mistakes people make when acclimating corals to LED is cranking the LEDs 100% in an attempt to match the visual brightness of halides. This ends up shocking and bleaching coral. Alot of the people that have them also sa they appear dimmer than halides, but the PAR usually beats out halides.

I cannot speak for the comparison to your LFS....what is the area they are set up n like compared to yours. Is the LFS in a darker room and yours in a brighter room?

angnak · 05/04/2011, 07:26 PM

I know the eyes can play tricks. I have them set to 40% I was just cranking them up to see how bright they are. My LFS is pretty bright and so is my house. A lot of sunlight. Here is the LFS. The LED setup is just to the left in the pic on the front page.

www.fintastic.us

jabel · 05/05/2011, 07:02 PM

I just got one and at 100% each color its barely brighter than my 400w MH with radium bulb. I thought it would be brighter as well. Still works for what I want, but limits the color change I can do and still keep the intensity. But, I agree with the comment about the par meeter. That's the only way to measure the output.
Jeff

RcToners · 05/05/2011, 07:25 PM

Only way to measure the light output would be to use a par meter. Your eyes cannot and will never be able to actually see how much par these AI units are putting out. Another problem people run into is the lunar setting, if you set your AI units on the lunar cycle they will only ramp up to a certian setting regardless of what you set it at depending on where the controller is currently at within the lunar cycle. Another issue is OPTICS, a basic MH light emits light from the entire bulb, you lose alot of light overr all due to reflectors as well as the extreme wide angle of light due to the shape of your MH bulb. With a basic AI unit there are 70 degree as well as 40 degree optics, This means the lights are only emitting light in a 40 degree angle or a 70 degree angle, in other words straight into your tank, vrs a MH bulb that is emitting light in a 360 degree angle and being reflected into your tank or throughout your tank room. In no uncertian terms the par from a AI sol blue unit will crush the par from any MH combo.

SoLiD · 05/07/2011, 02:25 AM

These LED's are really powerful even with 70 degree optics...

Check this out...

angnak · 05/07/2011, 07:20 AM

Wow. I am going to try that in a bit. I will report back.

05/01/2011, 01:08 PM	#1
angnak Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: NC Posts: 55	AI Blue Sol just plugged in and unimpressed I cranked them up to 100% just to see and it looks like I have just added another moon light strip with a few whites mixed in. People say you need to acclimate your corals to it. It looks like I could keep it cranked up all the way the corals would suffer. Anyone else have this experience. I have three units so it is not just one unit. Am I missing something? Everyone is saying these are so bright, etc...

05/04/2011, 06:19 PM	#12
James77 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 8,158	Brightness to your eyes is not a good way to gauge the PAR output of LEDs. Everything I have read is that one of the biggest mistakes people make when acclimating corals to LED is cranking the LEDs 100% in an attempt to match the visual brightness of halides. This ends up shocking and bleaching coral. Alot of the people that have them also sa they appear dimmer than halides, but the PAR usually beats out halides. I cannot speak for the comparison to your LFS....what is the area they are set up n like compared to yours. Is the LFS in a darker room and yours in a brighter room? __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater

05/05/2011, 07:25 PM	#15
RcToners Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Key Largo, FL Posts: 1,008	Only way to measure the light output would be to use a par meter. Your eyes cannot and will never be able to actually see how much par these AI units are putting out. Another problem people run into is the lunar setting, if you set your AI units on the lunar cycle they will only ramp up to a certian setting regardless of what you set it at depending on where the controller is currently at within the lunar cycle. Another issue is OPTICS, a basic MH light emits light from the entire bulb, you lose alot of light overr all due to reflectors as well as the extreme wide angle of light due to the shape of your MH bulb. With a basic AI unit there are 70 degree as well as 40 degree optics, This means the lights are only emitting light in a 40 degree angle or a 70 degree angle, in other words straight into your tank, vrs a MH bulb that is emitting light in a 360 degree angle and being reflected into your tank or throughout your tank room. In no uncertian terms the par from a AI sol blue unit will crush the par from any MH combo. __________________ Current Main Tank Info: 375g display + 120g fuge 2 Tunze 6105's with 7106 multi controller - Reeflo Orca 200 Skimmer with Pro Cup - 4 AI Sol Blue Led Modules Perc Clowns, Mystery Wrasse, Kole Tang, Purple Tang, Diamond Watchman, Cleaner Shrimp, Tiger Pistol Shrimp, Wheelers Shrimp Goby, Bullet Goby, Purple Carpet, Red/Green Open Brains, Candy Canes, Hammer Coral, Green Orange Blue Pink & Yellow Ricordea, Orange Tube Coral, Several Multicolor Zoos, Button Polyps, & Several Multicolor Shrooms

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
AI Sol Blues In Stock?	gatorrx98	Lighting, Filtration & Other Equipment	3	04/07/2011 04:47 PM
How to Tell The Difference Between AI Blue and Sol Blue?	HerbieK	Lighting, Filtration & Other Equipment	3	02/20/2011 08:16 PM
Elos, Reefkeeper & AI Nano oh my!	Aaarrrggg	Lighting, Filtration & Other Equipment	9	02/18/2011 07:22 AM
AI super Sol blue + Apex	connecticut cichlids	Premium Aquatics	1	11/24/2010 07:54 AM

05/01/2011, 01:56 PM	#2
jtma508 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: MA Posts: 1,232	There have been posts on this before. It has something to do with the controller needing to be reset. The lights will max at the previous setting if the controller is disconnected or if the wrong conroller setting (set-up as Sol Wht when the modules are Sol Blu). You can be sure it's a setup issue and noty the lights.

05/01/2011, 03:42 PM	#3
angnak Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: NC Posts: 55	I updated the firmware twice now. Now one of the units blue LEDs are either at maybe 10% or off no matter what the setting is. When the blues go out I have to unplug all the units and they come back on but very dim.

05/01/2011, 04:02 PM	#5
SoLiD -=Snake=- Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Corpus Christi, TX Posts: 999	Reset your AI Controller and make sure you select the SOL Blue option. ???

05/01/2011, 04:21 PM	#6
AcroporAddict There is no substitute. Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Southeast Posts: 2,269	Have you done a factory reset of the controller? From the AI owner's Manual: Factory Reset In the unlikely event your controller becomes inoperative, has a blank or dark screen, or is not operating properly, you can perform a factory reset. We recommend that you first try and do a Firmware Update to see if this fixes the problem. If not, a fac- tory reset can be performed. Note that a factory reset operation erases all timers and options, resets the clock, and sets the controller back to its initial factory settings. There are two ways to perform a factory reset: 1. Select the Other menu and press down the knob. Press again to bypass the LCD Brightness screen, then press again to bypass the Select Model screen. When Factory Reset appears, push down the knob. A second screen will verify your actions. Select Yes to factory Reset, select No to cancel. The controller will then prompt you to remove the jack for 5 seconds and plug it back in again. 2. Factory Reset can also be performed during initial power up. We recommend you use this method only if the controller is non-functional or the display is not working. To perform a power-up factory reset, unplug the jack and plug it in again. During the initial version display screen or within 3 seconds, immediately push down on the knob. Continue to hold the knob down for at least 15 sec- onds. Now release the knob and unplug the jack for 5 seconds. Plug it back in again and the controller will start at its factory reset condition.

05/01/2011, 05:03 PM	#7
angnak Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: NC Posts: 55	I have ran the firmware update twice and chose the SOL blue option each time. The factory reset says if the controller is not working. That seems to be working but I am up for trying anything right now. I will let you know. Thanks.

05/01/2011, 05:55 PM	#8
AcroporAddict There is no substitute. Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Southeast Posts: 2,269	You could always have a defective controller.....I just got and installed 9 sol blue units and one of my power supplies is bad...worked for an hour then kaput. I opened a ticket for Support this weekend and I'm sure they'll ship me a replacement right out. I've read they have excellent and fast Customer Service. If you can't get the controller going, open a ticket with AI here: http://support.aquaillumination.com/requests/new Also, AI states that products must be registered on their website for the One Year Warranty to be in effect, otherwise they have a 30 day warranty. Instructions on where to do this are on the card that comes with the module.

05/04/2011, 05:34 PM	#10
angnak Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: NC Posts: 55	Well I opened a ticket. One ac adaptor is bad and they are shipping out another. Still haven't gotten an answer on the other one. I have three in all. Anyone else think they are not that bright. I changed the busted one out and have two running side by side and they really look like extra bright nite lights. Anyone else disappointed when they got theirs up and running?

05/04/2011, 05:42 PM	#11
angnak Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: NC Posts: 55	I have the two that seem to be working plugged in. I was told these are very comparable to metal halides. Mine just really don't seem very bright. It looks like at 100% I need no acclimation. Everywhere I read and reviews say these are very bright. My LFS has many different LEDs setup and these are no where near as nice. Any reason why they might not be all that bright. Most of my corals are closed and acting like it is night time. Deflated. Never bounced bakck from the few hours I had my halides off getting the new hood on with these going.

05/04/2011, 07:26 PM	#13
angnak Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: NC Posts: 55	I know the eyes can play tricks. I have them set to 40% I was just cranking them up to see how bright they are. My LFS is pretty bright and so is my house. A lot of sunlight. Here is the LFS. The LED setup is just to the left in the pic on the front page. www.fintastic.us

05/05/2011, 07:02 PM	#14
jabel Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Southern California Posts: 848	I just got one and at 100% each color its barely brighter than my 400w MH with radium bulb. I thought it would be brighter as well. Still works for what I want, but limits the color change I can do and still keep the intensity. But, I agree with the comment about the par meeter. That's the only way to measure the output. Jeff

05/07/2011, 02:25 AM	#16
SoLiD -=Snake=- Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Corpus Christi, TX Posts: 999	These LED's are really powerful even with 70 degree optics... Check this out...

05/07/2011, 07:20 AM	#17
angnak Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: NC Posts: 55	Wow. I am going to try that in a bit. I will report back.