Best top off that you dont to drill your tank to install

[Aknies]

What is everyone using for a top off unit that will connect straight to an RO/DI?

TK

[r-balljunkie]

this is a hot button topic for allot of folks.
there's inherent risks associated with an 'infinite' water source connected to your tank.

failure = lots of mopping and possibly a tank crash.......not saying you cant crash your system elsewise.

ive ran mines direct in the states for years, no hiccups. i used the double float switch from autotopoff.com with a solenoid.

dont cheap out and get the single only...you'll want the double in case the lower float fails.
if you go this route, i would put the ato on a controller to only run 2x a day so you can be there to monitor, and to not excercise your solenoid and preserve your RO membrane from constant on/off cycling.

your gonna get different schools of thoughts on this suject, this is just my personal experience, and it worked for me.

GL

C

[BigCity]

I also did the double float setup from autotopoff.com, only had it a few weeks so far but it seems to work well. I use an old ~5gallon pet food container that we weren't using any more and that is usually good for about a week or so on my 120g. If the worst were to happen I would only be adding 5 gallons to my system.

[ReefTeacher]

in 2004 I bought a tunze osmolator and it is still going strong. I have NEVER had a problem in that time. You cannot connect it directly to the RO/DI unit...but I just fill an old salt bucket with water once a week and it continues reliably. I highly recommend this unit.

[reefsurfing]

Elos osmocontroller is probably the newest technology and seems pretty bulletproof; I know I love my unit.

[Aknies]

Thanks for the opinion anyone running their rodi straight
To a Kalk reactor?

[Logzor]

Spectrapure Ultra Precise Autotopoff unit is what I use, been running flawlessly for 3+ years now. Yes it is the most expensive topoff unit that you can buy but it is also the most reliable and longest lasting unit.

Comes with a 5 year full warranty, uses an air pressure switch (no laser to get blocked / screwed up). Also has a backup float switch should something happen.

Uses a peristaltic dosing pump, which can pump up 10+ ft and horizontal 20+ ft. I have mine located 25 ft away in a closet.

One of the best investments I've put into my tank.

[Costazul]

I use a simple method, just a kent flow valve gravity feed to the sump with a 5gal. reserve. Working this way for about 5 years.

[sbeason]

I use the double float from autotopoff.com. I have used it for well over 3 years without any problems. -Steve

[intotheblue2011]

I too purchased from autotopoff.com and setup redundancies in the system to utilize a factor of safety. make sure you keep your floats clean and you'll be ok.

[moonpod]

I am also a tunze osmolator fan but that being said a double float setup should be safe enough. IIRC isn't there some issue with RO direct feed and dispensing small amounts of water like in a top off? I'm pretty sure there are "purity" reasons for using a resevoir as well

[Mike31154]

Not really advisable to hook RODI directly to top off, particularly if your source TDS is on the high side. It takes my RODI a good couple of minutes to get down to 1 TDS and another 5 or so minutes to get to 0 with a source TDS of 210 to 220. Even if you're able to set up your automated 'direct' top off so that it runs for at least 10 minutes at a time, your first few minutes or higher TDS RO water will quickly deplete your DI media. If you have plenty of cash for DI media, go for it. Personally, I manually run my RODI into top off reservoir. The first minute of RO water goes into a waste bucket, or until I see 1 on the TDS meter. Then I'll make a few gallons of RO water for coffee, tea, drinking purposes. By that time the RO output is at 0 TDS and I then switch to making RODI for top off or water changes. Usually run the system for at least an hour. No matter how many float switches & redundancy you have or what you paid for your auto top off, the 'potential' for failure will always exist. Increased complexity can actually add more failure modes and when it comes to water spills, the results can be nasty. This is why I choose the manual option.

If you have the room above your sump, gravity feed from a reasonably sized reservoir through a mechanical float valve is the way to go IMO.

[das75]

Coming up 6 years with a simple mechanical furnace humidifier float valve in the sump connected directly to my ro/di (with 3g holding tank tee'd in the line). Zero problems, can't say I notice TDS creep directly but after 6 months or more it will start to rise but then about what I would expect the resin's life would be anyways.

[obaptista]

Using the level loc available at BRS. They have a good video. Love mine. Found on a popular auction site 50% off.

[billwill]

I agree with r-balljunkie in that you'll get a million differing opinions. The truth is that failure of most any component in our systems spells disaster, and double and triple redundancy isn't always the answer. Myself, I have a manual float valve running through a NC solenoid valve on my RO/DI that runs every couple hours off my RKL timer. My solenoid valve failed closed and let my return pump run dry last weekend. Autotopoff is being a good sport and repairing it under warranty, and luckily no pump failures. So now I'm running manual float valve direct off RO/DI and it's working just fine.

[markster33139]

Buy the double solenoid switch from autotopoff.com you wont be sorry.