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Unread 07/19/2011, 12:08 PM   #1
Gamepro_inc
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whats wrong with my SPS

So I have had a 34g solana set up for about 2 years now and a 10g refugium for about 1 year. The problem I am having is that every time I get a new SPS they look great when I get them and then over time 2-6 weeks they turn tan/brown in color. they still have PE and continue to grow as normal. When I make a frag and give it to a friend in a few weeks it gets its color back in their tank. Whats wrong with my tank? I have a 150w MH with a 3 month old 15K XM bulb running 7 hours a day. I also have a 4 bulb blue LED to supplement. I feed a mix of coral food 2x weekly in small dose. I do weekly water changes. All my LPS and Zoes look great. Also one weird thing is my orange/red type SPS look good and keep their color its only my blue/purple/green SPS that look like crap. I have been working on getting my PO4 down thinking this could be the problem but they have come down alot and still no color.

PH-7.8
ammonia-0
nitrite-0
nitrate-0
Ca-400
MG-1380
Alk-12.2
PO4-0.06


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Current Tank Info: 65g rimless, and 34g starfire rimless Solana
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Unread 07/19/2011, 12:12 PM   #2
Gamepro_inc
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Here are some pics for reference

Supposed to be hawkins blue enchanata


Tyree purple monster


Blue mili



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Unread 07/19/2011, 12:22 PM   #3
sporto0
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The theory behind better coloration has always been linked to higher K in the spectrum, or bluer if you will, I don't know how strong your blue led's are or even what spectrum they are. I have 2 250 watt aqualine 13,000 K MH's & 2 96 watt VHO super actinic flo's over my 90 gal & my sps coloration is very good, including, blues, purples, greens, reds & orange. I may try 20,000 K bulbs in the future, but I like a whiter looking light for viewing, just my preference.


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Unread 07/19/2011, 12:32 PM   #4
Allmost
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po4 needs to be around 0.03 or lower.


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Unread 07/19/2011, 12:51 PM   #5
javajaws
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I'm thinking nutrient problem first, and lights second. Just because you can't measure phosphate with your test kit doesn't mean you don't still have too much (for SPS). In addition to lack of accuracy with your test kit you also have organic phosphates that these kits don't even measure.

Have you tried running GFO?

Also, have you tried lengthening your light cycle? 7 hours seems a bit short, but probably isn't the biggest problem here.


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Unread 07/19/2011, 01:08 PM   #6
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I agree with you about nutrients, phosphates & what not, but he said he has normal growth & polyp extension but that they tend to brown up, I'm not convinced po4 would cause that problem, more so if they were showing signs of RTN or STN? .06 phosphates is not ideal, but not necessarily horrible either.


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Unread 07/19/2011, 01:25 PM   #7
javajaws
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.06 MEASURABLE phosphates aren't a big deal. But what about the ones he's not able to measure?

Also, do you run carbon? And what about flow? I didn't see any mention of flow...and seeing those cute little softies sitting still right next to those SPS isn't a good sign that those SPS are getting enough flow.


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Current Tank Info: 110g in-wall, ATI 8x54w T5, 2xMP40es, SRO XP-2000i, 2-part Ca/Alk, Apex controlled
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Unread 07/19/2011, 01:40 PM   #8
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Not to hijack the thread, but could it be that there is a chemical warfare going on between the soft corals and the sps?


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Unread 07/19/2011, 02:15 PM   #9
Gamepro_inc
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I have a 15000K MH isn't that kinda bluer than most? As far as the LEDs go its the 4 bulb powerbrite. You are correct on the PO4 I can't measure all of them but I do know that it is still higher than I like so I have been using GFO in a mesh bag changed every 2 weeks (I think this is why my PH is on the low side) and I also use a product called Phosphate-E by brightwell and it works by binding the PO4 for skimmer extraction. As far as flow goes the tank has an MJ1200 main pump and a koralia 1 on a wave cycle I cant do too much more in this little tank 34g 20x20x20.


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Unread 07/19/2011, 02:18 PM   #10
Gamepro_inc
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Also I reduced my light cycle from 8 hours to 7 thinking I had too much light hours on it causing a brown out. I was reading some of the tank of the months and most of them only have 6-7 hours on their MH so thats what im trying (switched about 3 weeks ago). As far as chemical warfare some of the SPS arn't even near the soft corals.


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Unread 07/19/2011, 03:21 PM   #11
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Any other thoughts?


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Unread 07/20/2011, 09:25 AM   #12
Gamepro_inc
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Should I get a 20000K bulb? Are my light hours ok?


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Unread 07/20/2011, 09:29 AM   #13
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I would look into water quality rather than lighting, that is not the problem here.


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Unread 07/20/2011, 09:37 AM   #14
Gamepro_inc
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OK so I am running GFO, and skimming heavy, I use carbon occasionally and do weekly water changes, I also have a refugium, and moderatly strong flow. What else should I do for water quality. I don't feed heavy somedays I dont feed at all I only have 3 fish (melanarus wrasse, tailspot blenny, and true perc clown). I don't have lots of cleaners because I got tired of picking up frags that they knocked over so I have 3 snails, 1peppermint shrimp, and 1 serpent star. Also I feed my corals 1x a week 1 day before a water change with (phyto, coral vibrance, cyclopeez, oyster feast and tigerpods.) Do you think I should get a bio-pellet reactor or something for such a small tank.


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Unread 07/20/2011, 01:02 PM   #15
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Do you have a nuisance algae problem? If not, you don't have water quality issues. I would try getting better actinic lights 456nm. I have experienced this same issue, sps corals growing but not coloring up, after a few months under good actinic light bulbs they regained their color. I don't know the specs or output of your 4 blue light led's, so i can't comment on that, I honestly don't think 15,000 k MH's put out enough blue spectrum without supplementing them. SPS corals will not thrive in poor water conditions, I think you will find that is a consensus opinion.


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Unread 07/20/2011, 01:09 PM   #16
Allmost
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algae isnt the only sign of poor water conditions.

you say you run GAC occasionally ? its best to run it full time, and change it monthly.

I would cut the feeding of corals as well. SPS cant use Phyto directly, and the brownish color tells you they have got enough to eat.

Of course more actinic wouldnt hurt, but I wouldnt swap the only 150W MH ! I would supplement it with actinic T5. or LED strips.

I would also double check the po4 reading with a hanna checker ... at 0.06, calcification should cease ! not sure how you are growing SPS.

JMHO,


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Unread 07/20/2011, 01:38 PM   #17
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Just for the record, I never suggested he replace the MH, I said he should "supplement" with actinics.


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Unread 07/20/2011, 02:39 PM   #18
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Are u using the Sunpod for you light? The problem with those is that is has a small reflector and sit too low on the tank. You will have bad coverage on the sides of the tank. You sps might just not getting enough light.


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Unread 07/22/2011, 12:41 PM   #19
Gamepro_inc
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Ok I am taking in all the suggestions. I don't have the sunpod I have the Current pendant fixture it looks like a disco ball.

1) I will stop feeding corals and reduce my fish feed also will be feeding frozen mysis instead of flake and pellet.
2) I will try to find a better actinic supplement
3) I will do a better replacment of my GAC

This is a really old pic but will give you an idea of waht the setup is like.





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